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Pioneer Life
In and Around Cedar Rapids, Iowa from 1839 to 1849
Rev. George R. Carroll

- Chapter X (first part) -

(pages 64 - 81)

Chapters:
I, II, III, IV, V, VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, X (cont), XI, XII, XIII, XIV, XV, XVI, XVII, XVIII, XIX, XX

Other Neighbors. – William Knowls.

Mr. William Knowls was the first settler, so far as my knowledge goes, upon what is now known as Judge Greene’s Mound Farm.

It is possible that some one claimed it for a short time before him, but certain it is that he was there in 1839.

Where Mr. Knowls came from, I am unable to say, but from his general appearance and conversation, I think he was an eastern man, probably from Pennsylvania or New York.

In personal appearance he was a little above the medium height and of light complexion. He lived in a little cabin on the south side of the mound, and so far as I remember he lived entirely alone, as was the case with many of the new settlers in this country.

He was a man of very fair intelligence and was considered trustworthy in all his business transactions. He had a few acres of prairie broken up on the south side of the mound, probably in the spring of 1840, and planted it with sod corn, but as there was no fence around it, and no law to restrain stock from running at large, I think that when the time came to gather the crop there must have been but very little left to be harvested. Of course our stock shared in the plunder, but as it was impossible for us to watch our horses and cattle day and night, and as there was no Keeley cure, or any other device by which we could take away their appetite for green corn, no one was to blame for the destruction of that first crop on the mound farm. And although Mr. Knowls must have felt a little uncomfortable to see the labor of his hands so rapidly going to waste, yet I do not remember to have heard that he ever uttered a word of complaint against his neighbors on account of their stock trespassing upon his premises.  This is proof enough of his mild disposition and amiable character.

Of his fate after he disposed of his claim here I am not advised. For some years, I believe, he remained in the vicinity, but for many years past I have known nothing of his whereabouts, or as to whether he is living or not.

Caleb Hendricks.

About a mile and a quarter south of us, in the edge of the timber, there lived another lone bachelor by the name of Caleb Hendricks. It was the same place, that, after passing through the hands of John Stambaugh and John G. Cole, finally came in to the possession of Mr. S. C. Bever.

Mr. Hendricks was a tall, loose-jointed man, of rather dark complexion, and possessed of a countenance not remarkably attractive, but nevertheless giving you the impression that behind it there was a kind heart, honest and true.

Mr. Hendricks was here when we came, or he made his appearance shortly after, but at this late date I am unable to state where he came from with certainty, but my impression is that he was a native of Ohio. He was a frequent visitor at our house, and we were always glad to welcome him to our family board.

More than once we shared our plain provisions with him, for mother pitied him in his loneliness, and she often cooked up something for him to take home with him. He was a consistent member of the Methodist Church, and was in every way a citizen of the most substantial character, and to whom any community might well extend a welcome hand. After selling his claim here, he located in the northern part of the county, where he died some years ago.

Mr. Levi Lewis.

Our next neighbor on the south was Mr. Levi Lewis, who came to this country some time in the spring of 1840, I think. He was a native of Pennsylvania, I believe, and he had two brothers and two sisters who settled on the west side of the river ten or twelve miles above this place. My impression is that they all came to this place direct from Indiana.

Mr. Lewis was considered quite forehanded for those days. He was a man of intelligence, but very plain in his style of dress and manner of living. His family came some months later. They were always regarded among our kindest and most reliable neighbors. Mr. Lewis and his wife were members of the Methodist church, and so far as I know, their lives corresponded with their high profession.

Their cabin was located near the entrance of Oak Hill cemetery. Soon after his arrival, Mr. Lewis broke up a hundred acres of his land, which lay south and east of Tenth street and Sixth avenue, and extending to the river.

For several years my father rented a part of that land until our own farm was sufficiently improved to require all our attention.

Many days of toil were spent by my father and us boys on this ground which is now so densely populated, and where are located some of our most comfortable homes, and where to-day many business houses and factories flourish.

I am sure that it was generally regretted when, some ten or eleven years later, Mr. Lewis decided to sell out his property and go to Texas. His death occurred in that State many years ago.

The change that has been wrought, not only in this town, but in all this county, during the half century that is past, seems to us who have lived here from the beginning, to be simply marvelous.

Our nearest railroad station was Ypsilanti, Michigan, and even that short line of railroad was not yet finished.

Jason Bartholomew.

Mr. Jason Bartholomew, who came a little later, probably about 1841, lived a half mile further south from Mr. Lewis, his log cabin being situated on the hill near the North-Western railway track as it is now located. He came here direct from Warsaw, Ill., I believe, though more remotely he was from Ohio, according to my best recollection. Still further back, I think, he must have been from New England, as his language and manner of life seemed to clearly indicate.

Mr. Bartholomew and his wife were members of the Methodist church, and were quite active in the performance of their religious duties. Mr. B. was a licensed exhorter and was somewhat fluent of speech. His voice was often heard in public assemblies. He was quite eccentric in his manner, and very radical in his views.

He was a violent opposer of slavery and a deadly enemy of secret societies.

His house was always open as a resting place for ministers of the Gospel, and both himself and his beautiful, modest wife, made these frequent visitors feel quite at home around their fireside.

His extreme views on the subject of slavery and secret societies led, in the end, to his separation from the Methodist church, and he sought a home in another branch of the church, whose tenets were more in consonance with his own cherished views.

He showed his eccentricity in his great partiality for donkeys and mules. He always had his farm well stocked with them, and the smaller the animal, and the longer his ears, the better he seemed pleased with him, and the more ready was he to ride, or drive him, so that he could show off his prominent points, which, of course, were his ears.  But with all his eccentricities, Mr. B. was an honest, well meaning man, and his intention was to do the right thing under all circumstances. After selling his property in town, he moved to another farm near Western, where he lived many years. This farm was also sold, and his last days were spent on a small farm near Kenwood, which he purchased. His wife died at this latter place some years ago, and he was married a second time to a lady whom I have never met. Several years later, he too, passed away. The date of that event I am unable to give.

Osgood Shepherd.
The First Settler in Cedar Rapids.

Our next neighbor was Mr. Osgood Shepherd, who occupied the only human habitation on what was afterwards the original plat of Cedar Rapids. His house was built of logs, after the usual pattern of those days. It was a somewhat squatty looking structure, about 16 x 20, covered with clapboards, which were held in place by logs on top, with ends protruding at the gables, the corners also being somewhat jagged and unsightly.

Mr. Shepherd brought his family here, consisting of his wife and two or three children, and his aged father, sometime during the summer of 1838, he having been here earlier for the purpose of erecting his house. This being the only house on the east bank of the river, it became per force of circumstances, the stopping-place of the newcomers, and the few travelers that came this way. And so, naturally enough, it became known as “Shepherd’s Tavern.”

Mr. Shepherd was quite a large man, of sandy complexion, and was said to be good-natured in his disposition, and, as might easily be surmised, he was an accommodating and agreeable landlord. Unfortunately, however, his morals were of a low order. While many good people were temporarily sheltered under his roof, and fed at his table, everybody believed that he also entertained horse-thieves, and these latter seemed to be his special favorites, and he showed himself ready to shield and encourage them in their villainous work.

It was afterwards currently reported here, that he himself, was finally convicted of horse-stealing in a neighboring state, and sent to the penitentiary.

After writing the above account of Mr. Shepherd, I am more than pleased to add that word has come to me from a source that I regard as trustworthy, that in the latter part of his life he became a professor of religion and was active in church work. That such a change is possible I am most willing and ready to believe, and I can but hope that the good report is true in every particular.

Many years ago, in Wisconsin, Mr. Shepherd was accidentally run over by the cars and killed.

This first house was located at the foot of First avenue, where now stands the splendid building of the Young Men’s Christian Association.

Around these premises many exciting scenes transpired. Here the first deaths occurred, and here the first child was born. Here deeds of darkness were concocted; and honest men and women made their plans for founding a town that would prove both an ornament and a blessing to the surrounding country in the years to come.

Mr. Shepherd’s father and one of his children died in this little cabin, and from it were borne to their last resting place on the adjacent hill, not far, as some say, from where the Episcopal church now stands. Others think the burial place was near the ground now occupied by the Congregational church. And here, too, a year later, perhaps, a little Shepherd first opened its tiny eyes upon this strange world.

Across the river on the hills beyond I think there was a birth and a death prior to those just mentioned, but at that time and for many years afterwards, that neighborhood formed no part of Cedar Rapids proper.

In the early settlement of a country, there are many questions that come up for solution that we do not now think about. For instance, when a death occurs in a country where there is not a board to be found in the whole region, what is to be done about a coffin, in order that the dead may be decently laid away to rest? This question had to be met more than once in the early history of this place. It is tru we had carpenters; the Listebargers were skilled in the use of tools, and they had brought their tool-chest with them, not forgetting even to bring a little varnish, in case of possible need.

But the lumber; this was the perplexing question of the hour.

Mr. Ellis tells how it was done, when the elder Mr. Shepherd died. He and the Listebargers went up the river and cut down a black walnut tree and split out puncheons which they hewed down with the broad-ax, and then with their planes they dressed them smooth, which, when finished, made very nice looking lumber. This done, the making of the coffin was comparatively an easy matter. In this case the coffin was made after the old-fashioned pattern, but being nicely varnished it made a very neat and respectable appearance.

And so even in the very earliest history of our community the dead were decently interred, although it cost an amount of labor that few now can understand.

The Family with Golden Hair.

At one time after the Shepherd family had retired from the state of active life hereabouts, a sprightly red-haired woman with two bright little girls with locks of the same golden hue, became the tenants of this cabin. She also accommodated the traveling public and a few permanent boarders. Her husband was said to be detained in an adjoining State, in a building whose main characteristics were iron doors well barred, and whose windows had screens, the meshes of which were larger and stronger than those in common use on ordinary dwellings, and the enclosure of which was a high stone wall, rather than an ordinary picket fence.

One of the boarders at the cabin at this time was a large, fine looking man, whose aim in life did not seem to be very well defined. He, however, soon assumed the duties and responsibilities of landlord of the establishment, and to all intents and purposes, became the head of this interesting little family, whose hearts he had won, and with whom he himself had become so completely fascinated. In the excessive ardor of affection which they had for each other, they neglected the little formality of a marriage ceremony, which the usages of good society require of persons living in the relation which existed between these two parties.

This state of things became very offensive to our law-abiding citizens, and they decided that such conduct should not be tolerated longer. The result was that this large, fine looking man was one dark night treated to a ride on a rail, long before the railroad ever reached this part of the country, and to a coat of tar and feathers long before a tailor had ever made his advent into this new and beautiful region. This little hint seemed to have the desired effect, and so these denizens of the “Shepherd tavern” sought other and more congenial surroundings.

The last use to which this primitive structure was put was that of a stable where the Higley brothers kept their horses when they operated the first stage line to Iowa City.

The building was finally torn down after serving its generation in various capacities for ten or twelve years, to make way for the little brick building, erected by Mr. William Wood, of St. Louis, for a store.

It is a source of peculiar pleasure that I am permitted to present in this place the picture of that very substantial and eminently useful building of the Young Men’s Christian Association. Occupying the ground made forever famous as the site of “Shepherd’s tavern,” the first habitation ever reared by white men in this place, it affords, perhaps, the most striking contrast between the past and present of anything that has ever taken place within our present city limits.

The building and grounds are estimated to be worth sixty thousand dollars.

The first story is fitted up for stores and offices, the Gymnasium occupying the extreme rear of the building. The second floor is occupied by the Secretary’s offices, the reception and reading rooms, the parlor, the library and auditorium.

On the third floor there are the G.A.R. Hall, the boys’ school room, the room of the Ministerial Union, and one other room occupied as a musical studio.

The pleasant reading room, with its library and periodicals, its cozy parlor, its commodious auditorium, its fine, well equipped gymnasium, and its unequalled baths and swimming pool, make it one of the most attractive places of resort for young men to be found in the western country, if not in the United States.

It is estimated that 450 men visit this place every day. Its present membership is about 900. There is a night school during the winter months of about 125 young men, where the common branches of education are taught, together with stenography, mechanical drawing, etc., all of which is free to the members of the Association.

With the religious meetings, the lectures, concerts, social gatherings, and the thousand other little rivulets of Christian influence afforded by this Association, no one can compute the amount of healthful, uplifting influence that this institution is exerting upon our city and the community around.

Mr. Porter W. Earl.

This gentleman, whose name stands at the head of this article, was one of our very earliest settlers, coming to Marion in 1840, and the following year removing to Cedar Rapids as his permanent home.

Mr. Earl was a native of the state of Vermont. He was a house and sign painter by trade, but he did not follow that line of business here to any great extent.

He was a man of unusual intelligence, and always dignified and gentlemanly in his deportment. He always figured somewhat prominently in politics, being a democrat of the most pronounced character.

He manufactured the brick and erected the first brick dwelling house in this city in 1849, on the northwest corner of First avenue and Second street. He also furnished the brick, I believe, for the three-story building erected by Judge Greene at the foot of First avenue, on the southwest corner, where the Greene Brothers, for many years, carried on their extensive mercantile business. This building was also erected in 1849.

He was at one time the owner of a good deal of valuable city property. For some years he was engaged in the mercantile business in the Franklin block, but in this he was unfortunate, and in the end was a heavy loser.

The latter part of his life was spent in comparative retirement, his health being too delicate to permit him to engage in any active business.

Mr. Earl and his wife were both members of the Methodist church. His death occurred April 14, 1884.

His estimable wife being a sister of Col. W. H. Merritt and of the first Mrs. Judge Greene, was a lady of intelligence and refinement, and always held a high place in the respect and esteem of our people. She departed this life June 10, 1876.

Of their children only Mary Adelaide, the wife of Mr. J. O. Baxter, remains in the city.  She is well known in this city, and is held in the highest esteem, as a lady of refinement and culture, and one of the most talented musicians in this country.

The oldest son, Merritt, died many years ago. Harriet, now the wife of Charles A. Taylor, lives in Peoria, Ill.; William resides in Guthrie, Oklahoma, and Ella, now Mrs. J. Thomas Dalton, lives in Chicago, Ill.

Source: Pioneer Life In and Around Cedar Rapids from 1839 to 1949 by Rev. George R. Carroll. Pub. Cedar Rapids, Iowa: Times Printing and Binding House, 1895.

Transcribed by Terry Carlson for the IAGenWeb. For research only. Some errors in transcription may have occurred.

Chapters:
I, II, III, IV, V, VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, X (cont), XI, XII, XIII, XIV, XV, XVI, XVII, XVIII, XIX, XX

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