of
Muscatine County Iowa
1911
| History of Muscatine County Iowa 1911 | |
Source: History of Muscatine County Iowa, Volume I, 1911, pages 43-51
IOWA DISTRICT OF WISCONSIN TERRITORY. GENERAL DESCRIPTION. The Iowa District lies between 40 degrees 20' and 43 degrees north latitude, and 18 degrees 10' and 15 degrees 15' west from Washington, and is bounded by the neutral ground between the Sauks and Sioux Indians on the north; by the lands of the Sauks and Foxes on the west; by the state of Missouri on the south; and by the Mississippi river on the east. It is about one hundred and ninety miles in length, fifty miles wide near each end, and forty miles wide near the middle, opposite to Rock Island; and would make a parallelgram of one hundred and eighty by fifty miles, equivalent to 9,000 square miles, or 5,760,000 acres, including Keokuk's Reserve of 100 square miles.
This country has been alternately in the possession of various tribes of Indians but last in that of the Sauks and Foxes, of whom it was obtained by treaty at the close of the Black Hawk war in 1832. General Scott was one of the commissioners appointed by the president to make this treaty, hence the district under review has often been called Scott's Purchase, and it is sometimes called the Black Hawk Purchase; but from the extent and beauty of the Iowa river, which runs centrally through the district, and gives character to most of it, the name of that stream being both euphonious and appropriate, has been given to the district itself.
In the year 1832, immediately after the treaty above named, several families crossed the Mississippi and settled in the Purchase. But as the time provided for the Indians to give possession was the first of June, 1833, these settlers were dispossessed by order of the government and hence the first permanent settlement of whites in the Iowa district did not take place until the summer of 1833. Since then nothing has happened to mar the peace, happiness and prosperity of a rapidly increasing population, which has already given to many portions of the district the impress of a cultivated people. It is true that a few whites had been living somewhat longer on the tract of land belonging to certain half breeds; but as they were very few and were living there only by sufferance, they need not be ranked as settlers of the district.
The general appearance of the country is one of great beauty. It may be represented as one grand rolling prairie, along one side of which flows the mightiest river in the world, and through which numerous navigable streams pursue their devious way toward the ocean. Taking this district all in all, for convenience of navigation, water, fuel and timber, for richness of soil, for beauty of appearance, and for pleasantness of climate, it surpasses any portion of the United States with which I am acquainted.
Could I present to the mind of the reader that view of this country that is now before my eyes, he would not deem my assertion unfounded. He would see the broad Mississippi, with its ten thousand islands, flowing gently and lingeringly along the entire side of this district, and as if in regret at leaving so delightful a region. He would see half a dozen navigable rivers taking their sources in distant regions, and gradually accumulating their waters as they glide steadily along to pay their tribute to the great "Father of Waters"; he would see innumerable creeks and rivulets meandering through rich pasturages, where now the domestic ox has taken the place of the untamed bison; he would see here and there neat groves of oak and elm and walnut, half shading, half concealing beautiful little lakes that mirror back their waving branches; he would see neat looking prairies of two or three miles in extent, and apparently enclosed by woods on all sides and along the borders of which are arranged the neat hewed log cabins of the emigrants with their fields stretching far into the prairies, where the herds are luxuriating on the native grass; he would see villages springing up as if by magic, along the banks of the rivers, and even far in the interior; and he would see the swift moving steamboats as they ply up and down the Mississippi to supply the wants of the settlers, to take away their surplus produce, or to bring an accession to this growing population, anxious to participate in the enjoyment of nature's bounties, here so liberally dispensed.
The products of this district are chiefly mineral and agricultural, though manufacturers will undoubtedly take their place in due time. Bituminous coal, the oxides and sulphurets of iron, limestone, sandstone and fire clay are found in numerous places. But the chief mineral wealth of this region consists in its lead mines. The finest mines in the United States are those near Dubuque, in the northern part of the district. The galena has been found throughout an extensive tract, and I have little doubt it will be found extending entirely across the district, running in a southwest direction toward the mines of Missouri.
The agricultural products consist chiefly of maize, wheat, rye, oats and potatoes. The large white corn of the south may be produced as far north as Rock Island and yields from fifty to one hundred bushels per acre; but the yellow flint corn grows well anywhere and yields from forty to seventy-five bushels per acre. The latter is the more certain crop. Wheat is produced with a facility unknown except in the west. I have known the sod of the prairies to be simply turned over, the seed harrowed in, and thirty bushels per acre to be harvested. But the usual crop after the first is from twenty-five to forty bushels per acre, with negligent farming. Oats yield usually from sixty to seventy-five bushels per acre and seventy-five bushels have been cut at Dubuque. Potatoes grow abundantly and are famous throughout the west for their fine quality. The growing of stock will undoubtedly be extensively pursued, as few countries afford more facilities for such purposes, and in consequence of the abundance of excellent timber along the rivers and creeks, those towns on the Mississippi, even as far down as St. Louis, will probably in a great measure be supplied with that article from the forests of Iowa. Already numerous mills have been put in operation but lumber for exportation has not yet been thought of by the settlers.
The larger game will of course soon disappear from the settlement, but at present there is a great deal of deer, some bear, and some buffalo within reach. Turkeys, grouse and ducks will long be abundant, and of fish there can never be any scarcity. Every stream is filled with them and among them may be found the pike, the pickerel, the catfish, the trout and many other varieties. Immense quantities are taken about the several rapids, where they may be easily speared.
The population of the whole district, exclusive of Indians, was about 16,000 at the end of 1835, a time little more than two years after the first settlement was made. During the year 1835, the chief part of this population arrived, and there is every indication of a vast accession in 1836. Indeed, large portions of the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and Kentucky and Missouri seem to be about to emigrate to this region. There are now here emigrants from all these states, and every other state in the Union, as well as many foreigners. Whole neighborhoods are moving from Indiana and Illinois to this land of promise. During a ride of one hundred and fifty miles through the district, in the month of January, 1836, I was surprised at the number of improvements then being made for occupation as soon as the warm season should set in. The character of this population is such as is rarely to be found in our newly acquired territories. With very few exceptions, there is not a more orderly, industrious, active, painstaking population west of the Alleghanies than is this of the Iowa district. Those who have been accustomed to associate the name squatter with the idea of idleness and recklessness would be quite surprised to see the systematic manner in which everything is conducted. For intelligence, I boldly assert that they are not surpassed, as a body, by an equal number of citizens of any country in the world. It is a manner of surprise that about the mining region there should be so little of the recklessness that is usual in that sort of life. Here is a mixed mass of English, French, German, Irish, Scotch and citizens of every part of the United States, each steadily pursuing his own business without interrupting his neighbor. This regularity and propriety is to be attributed to the preponderance of well informed and well intentioned gentlemen among them, as well as to the disposition of the mass of the people. It is within but a few years past that persons of high and cultivated character have emigrated, in great numbers, to our frontiers. Formerly it was, with some notable exceptions, the reckless in character, the desperate in fortune, or the bold hunter, that sought concealment, wealth or game, in the wilds of the west. Now it is the virtuous, the intelligent and the wealthy that seek in the favored and flowery regions beyond these wilds a congenial abode for themselves and their posterity.
This district, being north of the state of Missouri, is forever free from the institution of slavery, according to the compact made on the admission of that state into the Union. So far as the political wealth and strength is concerned, this is a very great advantage, for the region is too far north for negroes to be profitable. Besides, all experience teaches us that, caeteris paribus, free states grow far more rapidly than slave states. Compare for example, the states of Ohio and Kentucky, and what would not Missouri have now been had she never admitted slavery within her borders?
The population of the surrounding country is very various, whites on one side and Indians on the other. That of Wisconsin and Illinios being immediately east of the northern part of the district, is very similar to that already described as belonging to the district itself. These people take their tone from the active and enterprising people from the northern and eastern states, while those of the more southern part of Illinois and Missouri partake much more of the character of the middle states.
On the west and the north are the Sauk and Fox, and the Sioux tribes of Indians. These people have become so much reduced in number and are so perfectly convinced of their inferiority, that they will never have an idea of again making war upon our settlements. Their proximity will indeed be rather an advantage to the district than otherwise, as a profitable trade may be carried on with them.
The trade of this district is confined almost entirely to the grand thoroughfare of the Mississippi. By it the produce of the mines is carried away, and all the wants of a new population are supplied. St. Louis is the port through which all the exchanges at present are effected, though the town of Alton on the east side of the Mississippi just above the mouth of the Missouri river, is now setting up a rivalry for this trade. The only important article of export as yet is lead, the amount of which is not correctly ascertained, even for one year, and as it is daily increasing and capable of indefinite extension, it is enough to say that it is a profitable----a very profitable source of trade. The town of Quincy, forty miles below the mouth of the Des Moines, derives its supply of coal from the banks of that river and it is almost certain that a large trade will be carried on in that article, as the demand for it increases.
All kinds of agricultural products have heretofore found ready consumers in the increasing population of every neighborhood, and this cause will continue to afford a market at every man's door for years to come. After the emigration shall have abated, the mines will afford always a ready market for whatever can be produced within reach of them. But should this market fail, there are numerous navigable rivers intersecting the district, and leading into the broad Mississippi an ample highway to any part of the world. There are ten or twelve steamboats continually plying between St. Louis and the various ports on the Upper Mississippi, as far up as the Falls of St. Anthony. The usual trip is from St. Louis to the lead mines, a distance of four hundred and fifty miles, to make which requires about three days and an equal time to load and return. This would give an average of more than a boat daily each way, after making allowances for the casualities of trade. But while I am now writing, this thing is all changing; for such is the rapidity of growth of this country and such is the facility with which these people accommodate the wants of the public, that I would not be surprised to find the number of boats doubled within the current year.
The Mississippi is and must continue to be the main avenue of trade for this country, but there is a reasonable prospect of our soon having a more direct and speedy communication with our brethren of the east. New York is now pushing her railroad from the Hudson to Lake Erie, where it will be met by another from Pennsylvania. Thence the united railroad will be continued around the southern shore of Lake Erie and across the states of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, to the Mississippi, near the mouth of Rock river, touching upon the southern end of Lake Michigan in its route and receiving the tribute of the various local works which it will intersect. This work would place the center of the Iowa district within sixty hours of the city of New York; and if any of the "down-easters" think this project chimerical, let them take a tour of a few weeks to the Upper Mississippi, and they will agree with me that it is already demanded by the interests of the country.
From the 1st of June, 1833, to the 30th of June, 1834, the settlers in this district were without any municipal law whatever. At the latter date congress passed a law attaching it to the territory of Michigan "for judicial purposes," and under that law the legislative council of Michigan extended her laws over the district, dividing it into two counties and providing for the regular administration of justice. But when Michigan determined to assume her place as one of the states of the Union, she could no longer govern any district as territory. Accordingly, she cast off what was then called Wisconsin, together with this district, directing them to form a government for themselves, and providing that her own laws should continue in force until superseded by others. Under this provision, the authorities of Iowa district have continued to act, and all the ordinary local business has been transacted regularly under the laws of Michigan though the judge of the district court of the United States has refused to consider any cases of appeal taken to his court from the west side of the Mississippi. It is a matter of some doubt, in fact, whether there be any law at all among these people. But this question will soon be put at rest by the organization of the territory of Wisconsin, within which the Iowa district is by law included.
Though the district may be considered for a time as forming a part of Wisconsin territory, yet the intelligent reader will have little difficulty in foreseeing that a separate government will soon be required for Iowa. Already it has a population of nearly 20,000, which will swell to 30,000 by the close of 1836.
By casting an eye on the map, it will be seen that some of the most beautiful country in the world is lying immediately along this district on the west side. From this country the Indians are now moving over to the Des Moines, and finding the country on the Wabesapinica (Wapsipinicon), the Iowa, the Bison and the Chacagua rivers of no use to them, they are already anxious to sell and the press of population along the border has already created a demand for its purchase. A short time, then, will cause the western boundary of the district to be extended, and with this extension will come corresponding increase of population. It is hazarding little to say that this district will have a population sufficient to entitle it to a place among the states of the Union by the time that the census of 1840 shall have been completed.
The Mississippi river washes one-half of the entire circumference of the district, no part of which, from its peculiar shape, is more than fifty miles from the river. In a country so open as this, where no artificial roads are necessary, this common contiguity of such a river as the Mississippi places every part of it within convenient reach of the balance of the world.
The Mississippi is continually navigated, except when obstructed by ice, by steamboats drawing three feet of water, as far up as Prairie du Chien, and frequently they run up to the Falls of St. Anthony, a distance of eight hundred miles from St. Louis. There are only two permanent obstructions to easy navigation, except at very low water, throughout this whole distance, and they occur opposite to different points in the district. The first is the Des Moines rapids, beginning a few miles above the outlet of the river of that name and extending up about fourteen miles to a point nearly opposite the town of Commerce. In this distance there is a fall of twenty-five feet but the current is never too rapid for boats to stern it, and there is seldom less than three feet of depth in the channel. When the water becomes very low, it is the practice to unload the steamboats, pass them light over the rapids and take the freight over in keelboats of less draught. These keelboats when ascending are towed up along the western shore by horses moving along the natural beach. This rapid is a source of great annoyance, expense and delay, and yet it is so susceptible of being easily improved as to be a matter of surprise that it has not already been done.
The second obstruction is the Rock Island Rapids, very similar in character to those below. But I am not aware that any minute survey has been made of them with a view to their improvement. It is said that by damming the narrow sluice at Rock Island, the difficult bar on these shoals may be overcome.
The river is generally from three-quarters of a mile to one mile in width and is filled with islands of every size. From the flatness of the general bed of the river, the channel runs frequently from one shore to the other, rendering navigation intricate at low water. But there is not perhaps a stream in the world more beautiful in itself, or naturally more free from dangerous obstructions, than is the Upper Mississippi.
The general character of this part of the river is very different from that below the mouth of the Missouri. Here the water is limpid, the current is gentle and the banks are permanent. There the water is muddy, the current impetuous and the banks are continually changing. The annual freshets in this part of the river do not usually rise more than ten feet above low water mark, and in this feature it has generally the advantage of the Ohio, with which it is often compared. Even in the highest freshets the color of its water remains unchanged and its current easy, and there is about the whole river a calmness, a purity and a peacefulness of expression perfectly enchanting. Rocky cliffs sometimes present themselves along the shore, either surmounted with forest trees, or covered with a rich coating of prairie grass. Frequently low and wet prairies skirt along the river and stretch far back to the bluffs, over ground from which the water has gradually receded. And sometimes the highlands slope down to the water's edge, covered with waving grass and clusters of trees, grouped here and there, or set about at intervals, presenting an orchard-like appearance.
From the vicinity of Rock Island downward, the shores are, with few exceptions, either very abrupt and rocky or low and marshy. But thence upward to the highlands above Prairie du Chien, the beautiful sloping shores just mentioned are almost continuous. Those who have seen this part of the country need no description of it, and those who have not seen it would think me painting from imagination were I to describe it true to life.
The lands bordering on the Mississippi are not generally so productive as those retired from it. The hills are more exposed to have the soil washed from them into the basin of the river, and the low grounds are apt to be too wet or too sandy. Yet the lands lying on the river will always be most valuable, in consequence of their superior advantage of market.
The Muscatine slough is about eighty yards wide, except where it spreads out here and there into small lakes. Its current is gentle and it affords a channel of about four feet in depth. And as the land around the exterior of the curve is exceedingly fertile, boats will probably run along the slough to carry off its rich productions. The island is a continuous marsh and of course must give rise to much malaria, but it is well adapted to the grazing of cattle during the summer and autumn. The point at the head of this slough may be considered the ultima thule of the sickly region of the Mississippi. Above this the atmosphere is as pure and wholesome as that of any other climate in the world.
Pine river. Instead of a large stream and a great forest of pines, as one would expect from this name, there is only a small creek and about twenty trees to be found. Though the creek be small, being fed by springs, it is constant, and having a great fall, it affords good sites for machinery. It has also good land and good timber upon its borders. The bluff, which is to be found all along the Mississippi, either overhanging the water or separate from it by flat grounds, or sloping down to the water's edge, here assumes the latter character. And on one side of the Pine is a fine sloping prairie, while on the other side is an open grove of oaks. In this general slope time has worn a wide and deep ravine, through which Pine river finds its way to the Mississippi. About one mile above the mouth the Pine meets the back water from the Mississippi and grows deeper and wider to the mouth, six hundred yards above which it is fifty yards wide and five and a half feet deep. It affords a most excellent harbor for boats. The banks are sloping and the landings on either side are convenient. From the Pine up to the Wabesapinica (Wapsipinicon) there are numerous creeks that empty into the Mississippi. Some of them afford good water power, and all of them have more or less timber among them. As they rise far back into the prairie and interlock with others running into the Iowa and Wabesapinica, there is no part of the large and fertile tract lying between these three rivers that is not conveniently supplied with timber. It is from the mouth of Pine river upward that the beautiful country of the Mississippi begins to show itself.
In this embryo state, those interested are anxiously looking out for places where are to be the future cities to do the trade and manufacturing of the country. I propose making a few remarks upon places that have attracted most attention.
Kasey's. A gentleman of this name intends laying out a town at the head of the Muscatine slough. The place possesses the advantage of an excellent landing and of a fine back country. But the bluff, probably two hundred feet high, approaches the river very abruptly, allowing little room for building below it and rendering difficult the ascent to the level ground above. The contiguity of the swamps of the Muscatine Island and of Sturgeon Bay, will have a tendency to create much disease at this point. Notwithstanding these disadvantages, it must be a place of considerable trade, as it is the first place above Burlington where a town can be built on the west bank of the Mississippi, thus leaving an interval between these two places of forty miles on the river.
Iowa. This is the name of a town to be laid out at the mouth of Pine river, about three hundred and thirty miles above St. Louis. From its situation at the apex of a great bend in the Mississippi, it is central to a large district of country, and the near approach of the Iowa river just back of it, brings all the settlements along a great part of that stream within a short distance of this place. It possesses the most convenient landing from Burlington to the head of the Upper Rapids, and no place could be better adapted to the erection of buildings. The harbor of Pine river runs through the town, affording good landings on both sides, and boats may land anywhere on the Mississippi shore for a mile and a half above the mouth of Pine. This will be the point of deposit for the trade of the country included between the Iowa, Wabesapinica and Mississippi, and for the disembarkation of emigrants going to that region. But a simple inspection of the map is sufficient to show its general advantages of position. Its local conveniences are its landing, its harbor, its fine sloping grounds, its good water, its water power, its timber and its building stone. As soon as the legislative council of Wisconsin shall be assembled, the district will be redivided into counties, and Madison and Iowa will probably be made county towns. Should the seat of government of the future state of Iowa be located on the Mississippi, it would probably be fixed at Iowa, owing to the central position and commercial advantages of that place, and if it be located in the interior it must be near the Iowa river, as the weight of population will be there and then the town of Iowa will be the nearest port on the Mississippi to the captial of the state. There are some of the most beautiful sites for private residences between this and Rock Island that can be desired. Nature here has made her first display of gray and cheerful beauty.
Throckmorton's Landing. About six miles above Iowa is the next landing, and it is said to be a very convenient one. This point is stated by the surveyor of the boundary line of the purchase, to be just forty miles from the angle of that line on the Iowa river. It is a handsome place and belongs to a worthy man who knows how to prize its value.
Clark's Ferry. This is the most convenient place to cross the Mississippi that I have seen anywhere between the Balize and Prairie du Chien. Nature seems to have designed it for a great crossing place, by arranging good banks just opposite to an opening in the islands, and at a point where a good ferry would naturally be much wanted. All persons coming from the direction of the Illinois river to the great mining region of the Iowa district, or passing toward the capital of the future state of Iowa, would naturally cross the Mississippi at this ferry. Were the landing good on the west side there would certainly be a large town there, instead of the site at the mouth of Pine river.
There are many smaller towns and sites for towns in expectation, not mentioned in these notes. Some of these places deserve a particular description, but it is not in the power of the author to give it, for want of sufficient information.
The natural surface of the ground is the only road yet to be found in the Iowa district, and such is the nature of the soil that in dry weather we need no other. The country being so very open and free from mountains, artificial roads are little required. A few trees taken out of the way where the routes much traveled traverse the narrow woods and a few bridges thrown over the deeper creeks, is all the work necessary to give good roads in any direction.
A post route has been established from St. Louis to Dubuque, passing up the west side of the Mississippi, and it is quite probable that by the 1st of September next, post coaches, drawn by four horses, will be running regularly through that route.
It may appear to some unacquainted with the character of our western people and not apprised of the rapid growth of this country, that some of my descriptions and predictions are fanciful, but if there be error in them, it is rather that the truth is not fully expressed than that it is transcended.
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