LOUISA COUNTY, IOWA

DOWN MEMORY LANE IN FREDONIA

by Mrs. Barbara Lord Bliven

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FREDONIA

Transcribed by Beverly Gerdts, submitted June 10, 2017

       A town of about 136 souls. Neither the largest or the smallest, but by all odd the most important from our point of view. It's the largest, cleanest, most orderly, business-like town in Concord Township. And the folks who live here are friendly, industrious, intelligent, law abiding citizens.

        Fredonia has a tradition that has been handed down to use and it would be a shame not to do our best to keep it alive and pass it on.

        We are located out where the west begins, bounded on the north by the Aurora Borealis, on the east by the rising sun, on the west by a procession of the equinoxes, and on the south by the end o the world. And, incidentally, it may be just as well to add that the Iowa river flows along our west border, No. 92, one f Iowa's cross-state, paved highways, passes by on our south border, and the Rock Island R.R. runs through our midst.

        When the earlier white settlers arrived, Fredonia was one of the first sites chosen to locate. As a town it has weathered 120 years of existence and is here with all intentions of carrying on. How our little town came to be called “Fredonia” is one of the facts we have been unable to learn. As for what the name “Fredonia” means, we received this explanation from Fredonia, N. Y. “Free Donia” or “ Free Lady” and from Fredonia, PA, came this explanation, “Free Donia” or the Greek meaning, “Free Gift” in both cases a park had been donated to the town by a wealthy citizen,which to them had some meaning as to the word, Fredonia or Free Gift. The Park in New York was donated by a Barker family.

        Fredonia was laid out in 1836, by Alvin Clark, who had a squatters claim on the land. And was surveyed by John Gilliland, and located on the east side of the Iowa, immediately below the junction of the Iowa and Cedar rivers. It is a part of section 20, township 75, range 4 west. It is said Alvin Clark and his brother Gibbs were the first settlers in Fredonia.

        Enoch K Maxson was the first doctor that came to Fredonia. He was a physician and surgeon, a graduate of Louisville, Kentucky, medical college, also the medical college of Cincinnati, Ohio. And practiced his profession both in New York and Ohio, previous to his coming to Louisa County.

        In June 1837, he settled in Fredonia, where he was the first to engage in general merchandising, along with his profession.

        Alvin Clark established a ferry to cross the river. It consisted of a little flat boat, capable of carrying one team and wagon at a time. The boat was built of lumber obtained by the use of a whipsaw (we have been asked what a whipsaw was. Our dictionary says it is a narrow tapering ripsaw about six feet long with hooked teeth and operated by one or two persons).

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       An Indian canoe sufficed to carry foot passengers. The price schedules was 12 1/2 c per man, 25c for a man and horse, 75c for horses and wagon, 12 1/2c for one additional hose, loose cattle 10c, sheep and hogs 6c each. Mr. Mike Blankenhorn and Mr. Rudolph Schlichting both remember the ferry.

       An Indian village was located in the forks of the two rivers, and they would gather there by the hundreds. It was their favorite trading post.

        An act of the Wisconsin legislature in December of 1836, providing that the supervisors of each county could grant license, “for any time not less than one year,” and every person thus licensed was to pay the treasurer of the county the sum of $108.

        In July, 1839, Marvin Wheelock, obtained license to run the ferry, also to operate a tavern in Fredonia. Mrs. Lucinda Bliven obtained a license to operate a grocery store, the same year. I

        n July, 1839, a road was legalized through Fredonia, across the ferry to Port Allen. In those days the river was much deeper an narrower, and the ferry carried across by the power of the current. The first district or township division was made in August, 1837, while this was yet Wisconsin territory, for purpose of road building. Our community here was called Fredonia district, although the county was later divided several times, our district carried the Fredonia label until March 4, 1853, when the township was laid out with approximately its present boundaries, and the name changed to Concord. The county was divided into five precincts, and judges of election were appointed for each; James Bedwell, T. G. Clark and Craig Black were appointed for Fredonia. The first election was 1838, and held in the home of T.G. Clark, with 26 votes cast. In March 1839, an election was held for the location of a county seat, Fredonia and Wapello each trying for the prize. Wapello won with a majority of 56 votes.

        An interesting bit of history covers the night ride of Phillip Clark to Louisa county to bring John Ronalds to what is now Iowa City, for the purpose of driving the stakes for a new capitol, to be moved from Burlington to a place called Iowa City.

        A supplementary act provided that as soon as a place could be selected, and the consent of the United States obtained, the commissioners should lay out a town to be called Iowa City. Three commissioners were named, Chauncey Swan, John Ronalds and Robert Ralston, were to locate the seat of the government and superintend the erection of the building. They were to meet at Napolean, on the first day of May, 1839. And should a majority of them fail to meet there on that day, their actions would be null and void. When that day arrived, Chauncey Swan, of Dubuque county, was the only commissioner present. About noon he mounted a dry-goods box and made a speech to the crowd present. He said that the act of the legislature stated that should a majority fail to meet on that day, their actions would be null and void. Mr Swan then called for a volunteer to undertake to bring another commissioner to Napolean before midnight. A man named Phillip Clark volunteered this service and started for John Ronalds, of Louisa county, the nearest commissioner, who resided thirty- five miles from Napolean.

        Henry Felkner, who was among the crowd on that memorable day in May, continues the narrative as follows: Of course, there was much anxiety lest he effort should prove a failure. Fears were entertained that John Ronalds might not be at home, or not disposed to come, or that they might not get back in time.

        But these were idle fears, for as soon as Clark told him the situation he got ready at once and started with the determination to reach their destination in time. While they were going at their best speed, the watchers at Napolean had their doubts and fears, and as it began to draw toward midnight, and no tidings, their fears gave way to despair. Swan would often consult his watch and then would send Nelson to to listen. This was repeated frequently, until at last the sound of hoof beats were heard in the distance, approaching rapidly. They did not slacken until they arrived at the place of meeting. When they dismounted and went in, Chauncey Swan again consulted his watch and found that it was five minutes to twelve o'clock. Robert Walker, a justice of...

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… the peace, was on hand to administer the oath, which was signed by the commissioners and the date “ May 1, 1839” thereunto affixed. It has, however, been shrewdly intimated by on present that perhaps the hands of Mr. Swan's watch were turned back that night; for it was noticed that from midnight to sunrise were the shortest six hours on record. It is not improbable that Mr. Swan did either stop his watch or turn back its hands; for it was difficult to understand how a man on horseback could travel seventy miles in twelve hours over such roads as existed in that territory at that time. Clark had to travel over Indian trails and ford the Cedar river in once place, as John Ronalds lived in the north edge of Fredonia and no ferry was operating at that time of night. We find in an old deed where he owned property on what is now the property of Mr. and Mrs. Hininger. A street in Iowa City was named after John Ronalds. He was justice of the peace in 1838, and was commissioned a Colonel in 1st Brigade, 2nd Division, of the 1st Regiment, in 1839, and was a member of the Constitutional convention of 1846.

        To live in the hearts of those we leave behind, is not to die.

        It has often been said Fredonia came near being the capitol of Iowa, however, there really is no foundation to the story in the way it is told. Fredonia, as well as several other towns were proposed and voted for in the house of representatives, while there was a contest going on between Mt. Pleasant and Iowa City. And these other places, as well as Fredonia, only lacked from one to three votes of a majority. This was in the winter of 1838 and 1839, but there never was any intentions of locating the capitol here and the name of Fredonia was never voted on in the council.

        In the Springer History, we find the names of some of the early settlers in our community: Dr. E. K. Maxson, J. C. Sterling, Joseph Clark, Robert F. Newell, James Waterbury, Marvil Wheelock, George Stone, James Bedwell, Micajah Reeder, John Knott, Jacob Shellabarger, Alexander Finley and George W Messick.

        In 1841, Lothrop Darling started the first blacksmith shop in Fredonia.

        The first hotel was built in 1847, at the point of the ferry landing and was called the Ferry House.

        In 1842, Rev. James L Scott held a series of meeting in Fredonia, and made a missionary trip to the great west. He published a journal which contained some interesting articles about Fredonia. It stated in part: he traveled from Burlington to Fredonia May 25, 1842, and gave the distance as 44 miles. Besides a few newly commenced settlements and an occasional grove, he found the scene along the way an unbounded sea of prairie. He described Fredonia as a small village situated on the banks of the Iowa river, immediately below the forks of the Iowa and Cedar rivers. He thought it has a good a location for a large town as he had found in the interior of the country. The timber was much finer and taller than in Illinois, and noted that a saw mill was being erected opposite Fredonia. (Mrs. Hattie Gelatt has chest made from lumber sawed at this same mill).

        In conclusion, Rev. Scott says: a church was organized and founded in Fredonia, in 1842, with Dr. E. K. Maxson as clerk. He refers several times to Fredonia as a convenient location for a large town, being on the banks of the Iowa river, up and down which proud streamers frequently play, laden with every thing necessary for domestic use. In those days Fredonia was a place of considerable importance.

        An act approved February 14, 1844, provides that Alvin Clark, of Louisa county is authorized to cause a complete and legal plat of Fredonia to be made out according to the survey made by John Gilliland, and to have the same duly recorded within 90 days from the passage of this act, and that all deeds, mortgages and other contracts in writing relating to lots in Fredonia shall be as legal and binding as if a complete plat had been made out and recorded prior to the execution of such deeds, mortgage and contract.

        In a list of expenditures in 1844, George W Messick, received $20.00 for assessor fees in Fredonia. In February, 1848, Fredonia Township supported two school districts, and 80 scholars, that share of the county was $12.72. The county school funds collected $230.52 and $23.67 taxes, in 1846. in 1847, $168.85 taxes; proceeds...

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… of estrays, $18.00; fines from justice of the peace, $20.00. In 1849, Fredonia received $59.48 from the same source.

        Fredonia township census of 1850 was 369, in 1860, Concord township recorded 577, in 1870, it was 892, in 1880 it was 748.

        From the state Historical Society of Iowa City we received this bit of information; the first post office in Fredonia was established September 11, 1839, with Trueman Clark as the first postmaster; and discontinued May 10, 1842. Re-established February 18,1860, with Jacob Van Dyke as postmaster;

        We have read where many companies originating in east central Iowa passed through Fredonia on their way during the gold rush of 1849, and one company left from Fredonia, but no names were given. In a clipping written by G. W. Graham in 1845, we quote: There is a newspaper known as the Toolsboro Times, that publishes letter sent in by subscribers, in one issue a letter signed M. M. dated August 14,1845, told of a bus trip from the east to Oskaloosa, in part it said: on my route from Grandview to this place, I passed through Fredonia, situated immediately at the junction of the Iowa and Cedar rivers, where a good ferry is kept there by an attractive ferryman. When the canal fever gets up again this will become one of the best towns in Iowa. At present, it contains but a few inhabitants. The country through which I traveled is unsurpassed in beauty and productiveness.

        (The canal fever must be cooled off).

        In those early days, river transportation was of considerable importance. The farmer raised good crops on our fertile soul, but the problem was getting it to market, and getting the things the farmer needed back to him in this new country.

        We find in early history, the first steamer, called “The Ripple,” ascended the Iowa river as far as Iowa City, June 20, 1841. Its passing caused quite a celebration.

        Steamboats and barges were more or less of a satisfactory answer to the market difficulties. The biggest drawback was the lack of a channel deep enough to keep the vessel afloat. Sufficient power, too, was often lacking. They could make good time, loaded, going down stream, it was difficult going up. A good many boars were passing through the county by 1846. In June 1847, Joseph L. Derbin, had a boat built at Fredonia, which was launched on June 19, and loaded with produce for St Louis. In 1848, a barge “Lexington” was built at Fredonia, and in the same year, the steamer “Piasa, “ owned by Joseph Derbin and E. B. Isett, began making trips on the river as far as Iowa City, and continued whenever the river permitted, up to the spring of 1850.

        The barges were guided with oars and floated down stream to their destination, reloaded with merchandise and towed back behind steamboats, to the mouth of the Iowa river, where they were poled upstream to their destination by man power. There were about 20 boats of one kind or another, making regular trips.

        Cabin passenger fare from Wapello to Burlington and back, was listed as $4.00 and deck passengers were $2.00.

        The barges operated for several years, and finally a steamboat was purchased to pull and guide a couple of barges at a time, and a load of its own. This proved to be too slow, lacked power, and just plain didn't pay.

        On Saturday, May 31, 1851, both the Iowa and Cedar rivers were flooding the country, the water reaching from the sandbanks at Columbus Junction to the bluffs on the other side, to near the main portion of Fredonia. The water was 20 feet above low water mark at Todds Ferry, and the steamers were obliged to land at the bluffs. The same year, long creek was 16 feet above low water mark, and short creek had reached about the same height. In 1858, there was another notable flood, at which time the water was 16 feet above low water mark at Todds Ferry. Rain fell almost continuously from April 30, to May 20.

        The last steamboat that went to Iowa City, was the F. P. Benson, on April 29, 1860. On April 2, 1868, the legislature adopted a resolution to declare the Iowa river unnavigable from Wapello north. The railroad reached Fredonia in 1857, river traffic was declining, although it continued through the Civil war and up to 1870.

        Oakland township was organized in 1853, its first election being held in Ap...

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...ril of that year. It comprises all of township 76, range west, lying east of the Iowa river, and that territory lying in Louisa county, between the forks of the Iowa and Cedar rivers. This township, was formerly a part of Fredonia township, and all elections were held in the village of Fredonia. In order to vote, the citizens in the west side had to cross the river, which made it very inconvenient. They therefore, held a caucus at Port Allen, with a view of electing officers for the township, who lived west of the river. In pursuance of this idea, after consultation, they ferried across the river in an Indian canoe, two at a time, until about 30 men were collected around the voting place in Fredonia. Sauntering up and quietly casting their ballots in order to allay suspicion of their scheme, they then returned to their homes. A short time before the polls closed, those residing east of the river, suspicoined that something was wrong, and that they were being our-voted, put some boys on horses and sent them out in all directions to bring in voters from their side of the river, but too late; all the township officers elected being from the west side of the river.

        The citizens of Fredonia not liking the plight they were in, petitioned the county court to set off the territory now comprising the township of Oakland, from Fredonia township, which was done. And since that time it had been called Concord township. It is stated the ballot box used at this election was plug hat belonging to John Tucker, afterwards the county treasurer. As a cover to the hat, a shingle was used, with a slot through which to drop ballots. There was a jug of whiskey outside in the sand, in front of the hotel where the election was held, which was free to all.

        In 1854, a daily mail route from Muscatine to Washington, was established and carried in hacks. In 1857, four-horse coaches were used from Fredonia., at that time the terminus of the Mississippi and Missouri railroad, now the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific. The rail road was completed to Fredonia and ran its first train from there on July 4, 1857. It caused quite a celebration. We suspect another of those old time picnics with a big basket dinner, fire crackers, a ball game and neighbors visiting, and talking about crops and weather. Probably a fist fight or two. Since Columbus Junction was not established until 1870, when the north and south railroad crossed there. Fredonia was a bustling trading and shipping point, not only in 1870, but a considerable number of years thereafter.

        Most all, except through trains, stopped to tale on mail, express freight and passengers. The first railroad bridge was built in the fall of 1857, and was built on piling and trestle work and reached almost to Columbus Junction. Sometime near the year 1880, cement piers were built and overhead iron work was built up. In 1910, the iron work was removed, more cement piers built, the trestle work all torn out and the road bed filled. The dirt and gravel for the fill came form the sand pit east of Fredonia. And the present bridge was built at the time. History has it that the coming of the railroad brought quite a boom to Fredonia.

        It was during the building of the railroad that the hotel was built on the north side of the tracks, on the west of the main street, by Martin Diller, grandfather of Willis and Alonzo Diller. Another hotel was built on lot 7, block 8, just east of the Blaine Bliven home, and must have built in the early 1860's according to an old abstract deed, and was in the possession of Micajah Reeder and wife.

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