1865 Iowa State Gazetteer
Clayton county

pg. 126-132

pg. 126
The county of Clayton lies between forty-two degrees forty-four minutes, and forty-three degrees seven minutes north latitude, and the centre is about fifteen degrees twenty minutes of longitude west from Washington.

It is bounded on the north by Allamakee county, east by the fifth principal meridian and the Mississippi, south by the DuBuque and Delaware counties, and west by Fayette, and contains an area of seven hundred and ninety-two square miles, or five hundred and six thousand eight hundred and eighty acres of land, included in seventeen regular townships, and seven townships made fractional by the Mississippi River.

The surface of the upland is at an elevation of about six hundred feet above the Mississippi, and for salubrity of atmosphere is unsurpassed. There is about one-third prairie, one-third lightly timbered, denominated openings or barrens, and one-third well timbered; mostly high rolling, well watered with fine springs, and streams of various widths up to four chains. From the precipitous bluffs of the streams, the surface grows less rough to the heighth of land, which is gently undulating.

The soil of the prairies is a deep, rich, black loam, based upon a thick sub-soil of yellow clay. The soil of the timber land is excellent for wheat.

The streams afford abundance of pike, black and rock bass, muscalunge, eat-fish and red horse mullet; and power sufficient to propel a vast amount of machinery.

pg. 127
The southeast part of the county is included in the Lead District, and mining is an important branch of the business of the county.

There are three large prairies and several smaller ones. The largest of these is High Prairie, beginning in township ninety-two of range three, three miles west of the Mississippi, extending in a north-westerly direction, gradually receding from the river up to the north line of the county, where it is distant from the river ten miles. Its width varies from one to six miles. The whole western country with its wealth of delightful scenery, does not afford more beautiful landscapes than are to be seen from several of the highest points of prairie.

A similar prairie, from one to four miles in width, lies between the Turkey and Volga rivers, commencing near the junction, extending northwesterly, and is terminated by a belt of openings in the sixth range. Its rolls are much higher and not as gently undulating as High Prairie.

Garden Prairie, extending from the northwest of Delaware, across the southwest of Clayton into the southeast of Fayette, is from one to three miles in width, well watered, thickly settled, and much more gently undulating than either of those before mentioned.

STREAMS -- The largest stream passing through the interior of the county is Turkey River, from two to four chains in width, running rapidly through eight townships, and far below the general surface of the surrounding country, (as in fact do most of the streams in the county) with a bed varied by smooth limestone, pebbles, and white sand, for the most part between high rocky bluffs, occasionally widening out to nearly a mile in width, leaving valuable bottoms of deep rich alluvial soil, some of which are prairie and others heavily timbered.

The timber bordering on Turkey River is of excellent quality, and extends on either side from one to five miles, and consists of the usual varieties found in Iowa, viz: white, burr, black, pin and yellow oak, linn, maple, black and white walnut, hickory, elm, ash, aspen and ironwood. Its tributaries from the north are Cedar, Dry-mill, and Pony Creeks; and from the south, Blue Belt, Little Turkey, Peck's Branch, Elk Creek and Volga River.

The Volga passes through four townships, and is a very clear, rapid stream, one chain wide, with gravelly bottom, bounded by deep slopes mostly covered with scattering burr oaks. there are occasional bottoms as on the Turkey, but of less extent. Its principal tributaries are from the south, and are Bear, Honey and Cox Creeks.

The streams emptying into the Mississippi are Bloody Run, about one mile north of McGregor in township 95, Snymagill in township 94, Buck Creek in township 93, Miners' Creek at Guttenberg in township 92, Turkey River opposite Cassville in Wisconsin, and Panther Chreek in township 91.

The south fork of the Maquoketa passes through the southwestern township of the county.

In township 94, range 5, Robert's Creek sinks, and rises again about three miles southeast, under the name of Pony Creek.

GEOLOGY -- The rocks frequently met with, exposed in the bluffs along the streams, and which underlie the greater part of the county, are coralline and pentamerus beds of upper magnesian limestone, resting on a stratum of white friable sandstone -- this sandstone is exposed at the foot of the bluffs on Turkey River, and Buck Creek, and was struck in making the road up Clayton Hill from the river, near the foot. It is white with shades of light yellow, very compact, and is well adapted to making mortar, and is so weakly cemented, that it may be easily excavated with a shovel or spade.

Cass, township 91, range 6, lies within the drift region, described by Prof. Owen, as the largest in the world, which he calls the Cedar Drift. The drift rock, boulders or lost rock, as they are usually termed, are mostly of porphyritic granite.*
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*Northwest of this county extending into Minnesota, and covering the entire table of land giving rise to numerous streams, tributaries both of the Mississippi and Missouri, the boulders are large, and the "largest of them might in an inhabited country very well be taken for cabins, in the distance." They are in this county mostly quite small, and do not rise above the surface. That these rocks are "not at home" is apparent to every one, and Prof. Owen gives the following explanation as to the probable method of their transportation: "The only explanation that is at all satisfactory in accounting for the transporting power which has brought these detached masses of granite rocks into their present position, is floating ice -- ice drifted by currents settling in from the north before the land emerged from the ocean, in the same manneras, at the present time thousands of tons of rock are precipitated on the bed of the Atlantic Ocean from icebergs, which annually work their way from the north, and melt in southern latitudes. No mere currents appear at all adequate to convey such heavy blocks across valleys and over hills, to a distance of hundreds of miles from the parent rock. their isolated position is the prairie, also indicates that they were dropped into their present position, rather than rolled into it. Under the latter supposition, even if it were possible, they would probably be close together, and more regularly assorted as to size." In a romantic place, upon an eminence in Cass township, there is a peculiar outcrop of magnesian limestone, having the appearance of an ancient castle in a fine state of preservation. It is impossible to pass within sight of it, without being attracted by its singular appearance.
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pg. 128
Upon the shores of the Mississippi, are pebbles in great variety; little granite boulders from the size of a pea to that of a hen's egg, gneiss, basalt, greenstone, hornblende, chalcedony, carueliau, agate, porphyry and quartz both opaque and transparent. Many of the earnelians and agates have been picked up, and after passing through the hands of the lapidary, have made beautiful settings for pins, rings and watch seals.

There are numerous petrifying springs along the Mississippi, at the foot of the bluffs, and in some instances in the ravines opening to the river, and around them are to be found fine specimens of moss and other substances in a state of perfect petrifaction.

In the northeast part of the county there occurs a bed of lower magnesian limestone, in the shape of the letter U, or perhaps more like a pitchfork, including within its prongs a shell bed about two miles in width. The Snymagill passes through this shell bed, and nearly follows its course to the Mississippi. The prongs are about three miles in width, and unite some fifteen miles northwest from the mouth of the Snymagill, and extend nearly to Yellow River in Allamakee county.

The lead bearing beds of upper magnesian limestone extend across the Mississippi from Illinois, at Bellevue, and are bounded on the west by a curved line which meets the lower prong of the forked bed before mentioned, in the vicinity of Clayton, where it re-crosses the river to the east into Wisconsin.

Some extensive lodes of lead have been found on Panther Creek in Buena Vista township, and have been profitably worked to a considerable extent. On Turkey River, from three to four miles above its mouth, there have been discovered pockets containing lead in small quantities. Large quantities are found in the vicinity of Guttenberg on Miners' Creek, in the horizontal openings of the rocks.

Above the place known as Frenchtown on the Mississippi River, the ore is found in small quantities exposed in the crevices of rocks, said to be the lower magnesian limestone.

Lead also has been found in numerous instances occurring in small quantities, back from the river as far as four or five miles, in different places from McGregor to the south bounds of the county.

That portion over which the lead bearing rock extends, and in which the mineral has been found in greater or less quantities, contains an area of about seventy thousand acres, a large proportion of which is not only well timbered, but when cleared, is a good quality of land for agricultural purposes.

EARLY HISTORY -- This county was established within its present limits, under the name of Clayton county, previous to the organization of the territory of Iowa by the Legislature of Wisconsin, by an act approved December 21st, 1837, and until the next year was attached for judicial purposes to Du Buque county.

The first settlement was made in the spring of 1832, by Robert Hetfield and William W. Wayman, on Turkey River, about four miles from its mouth, on the north side, nearly opposite Millville, on the place known afterwards as the Lander farm, and on the Pierson farm by Captain William D. Grant. Previous to their settlement, however, there had been a cabin erected at the mouth of the river that was used as a ferry house.

Until this time explorations had been confined principally to Turkey River, and those had mostly been made by miners, and persons in search of mineral, who were started out by the excitement consequent upon the discovery of rich lodes of ore at Galena and DuBuque. Some of these parties followed up the river to its head, thence striking across to Lake Pepin, returned in canoes procured of the Indians, down the Mississippi. But few came for the purpose of settlement.

pg. 129
In January, 1836, Dr. Frederick Andros made a claim on the edge of High Prairie, about one mile southeast from where Garnavillo is now situated, built a cabin and placed it in charge of a man whom he had employed to occupy the claim and make rails. A man by the name of Loomis made a claim about the same time, adjoining that of Dr. Andros. A claim was also made by John W. Gillet, which covered a part of the ground now occupied by Garnavillo. He built a cabin and moved into it. During the spring, William Correll made a claim in Farmersburg, built a cabin, and spent the summer in learning the French language and splitting rails. Allen Carpenter made a claim three miles northwest of Correll's. In June or July, Mr. Gillet brought on a breaking team, and commenced plowing on the prairie, which is believed to be the first prairie broken in the county.

On the 15th of July, Elisha Boardman, Harry Boardman, Horace D. Bronson, and a man by the name of Hastings, started on horseback from Green Bay, followed up Fox River to the Portage, where they found a Mackinaw boat belonging to the American Fur Company, that had just discharged a cargo of furs, and was about returning. In this the Boardmans took passage down the Wisconsin to Prairie du Chien, and then hired a half-breed to take them in his canoe to Cassville, where they joined Bronson and Hastings, who had proceeded to that place on horseback, following along the course of the river. Here they crossed the Mississippi and went up to Hetfield's, where they left their hoses to recruit, and with two others procured of Captain Grant and E. Price, Esq., they commenced an exploration of Turkey River, accompanied by Grant.*
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*Their stock of provisions consisted of twelve pounds of pork and an equal quantity of flour; with an artillery of one small shot gun. A halt was made at the forks of the river eight miles below Fort Atkinson, and that night the Indians stole both their horses. After a fruitless search for them in the morning, they concluded to return, for having killed no game, their pork and flour had got reduced to about a pound and a half of each. The flour was mixed up, baked in the ashes and divided into five equal parts. Grant and Bronson decided to return on foot, while the others constructed a raft to float down the river. The foot passengers took the pork and started back. The raft was made of two troughs fastened together, and at first was sufficient to carry only one person. The river was low and they proceeded very slowly, making additions to the raft of such dry cedars as were convenient to the river, until it was sufficiently extensive to bear up the three. As they floated along they espied up on the bank an old coon, with three young ones. Under ordinary circumstances such game would not be very tempting; but the stong demands of appetite compelled them to bag such game as they could get. The coons were killed, taken to the Big Spring, about five miles above Elkader, roasted and eaten. After dinner a claim was marked out including the spring, but fears were entertained that it might be within the limits of the "neutral ground." Another landing was made where Elkader now stands, and Elisha Boardman marked out a claim extending on both sides of the river, and including the farm upon which he now resides. A tree upon the east bank of the river just below the dam, was recently standing, bearing upon it one of the claim marks made at that time. they continued their journey day and night, sometimes getting into the water to work the raft over shallow places, with occasional stoppages to gather gooseberries, which, aside from one duck and the coons, were their only food until at the end of four days they reached the Lander place, about three hours after Grant and Bronson had arrived. After stopping a few days to recruit, Elisha Boardman and Mr. Bronson started back for Green Bay with but one horse -- leaving the other with Captain Grant to plow our his corn. About the first of October they purchased a large bark canoe of three tons capacity and started for their new home on Turkey River. Mr. Boardman with his goods, Mr. Bronson with his goods and family, and five others who were coming to see the country, made a pretty large canoe load. At the portage the canoe and cargo were carried over and launched in the Wisconsin, whence they descended to Prairie du Chien, where they purchased a team and provisions. There was no ferry across the Mississippin at that place, and it was with much difficulty that they succeeded in obtaining an old flat boat belonging to the government, and repainring it so as to get over with their loads. Alex. McGregor, Esq., had recently come to Prairie du Chien, he rendered them material assistance in caulking and launching the boat, crossed with them and returned the boat. They were four days in travelling with their team from the Mississippi to Elkader, at which they arrived on the 10th of October. At that time there were at McGregor, [then called Coolie du Sioux] two occupied cabins built by Thomas S. Burnet, for evidence of possesion of the coolie by him. In August a parse was made up by Prairie du Chien Land Company No. 1, to cut through a road on this side of the river to the top of the bluff. It was made up one of the branch ravines to the north of the one now used for a road, and reached the summit at a distance of one mile and a half from the river.
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pg. 129 continues
A few other persons settled on Turkey River and its tributaries during the fall, and some improvements were made by way of building saw mills. William Rowan began one on Little Turkey and sold out to Robert Hetfield, who got it to running before winter set in. William W. Wayman began one on Elk Creek near its mouth. Boardman and Bronson began one on

pg. 130
Dry Mill Branch on section 17, township 93, range 4, in December. When they commenced work upon it, the stream was sufficiently large to carry a saw mill to do a good business. One morning in February, 1837, upon going to the stream they doscovered, much to their astonishment, that it had entirely disappeared and there was no water left. *
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*Upon following up the bed of the stream about half a mile above the mill, they found a sink where the water went under ground, but thinking this might be stopped, work upon the mill was continued until it was completed about the first of May, and a log put on the carriage ready for sawing. The sink was then stopped, then others opened that were also stopped; but showers came and washed them open again, and the mill was abandoned without even starting the saw, and has always been known since as the "Dry Mill," After failing in the mill, Mr. Boardman concluded to try his fortune at farming, and accordingly purchased two additional yoke of oxen to make a breaking team, and commenced breaking on a piece of bottom land situated half a mile below Elkader, on the east side of the river and about ten feet above low water mark. After plowing five or six acres, the Indians stole three of his oxen. Search was immediately made for them and one was traced to Yellow River near the agency; the remnants of one was found on High Prairie where he had been killed, but no trace of the other could be found. To supply the place of these, others were purchased at Prairie du Chien.
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pg. 130 continues
About the first of June, Bronson commenced building a saw mill for Hetfield on Buck Creek, about four miles from Garnavillo, which was completed in December following.

In the year 1836 the public surveys were begun, and the county was run into townships. The year following the most of the townships were subdivided into sections, except that portion within the "neutral ground".

Up to the year 1830, this part of the State was occupied by hostile tribes of Indians who were continually making war under pretext of trespasses on their hunting grounds. the Dakotahs or Sioux, on one side, and the Sacs and Foxes on the other. The former occupying north, and the latter south of an imaginary boundary line, leaving a very indefinite location. To remedy this difficulty, on the 15th day of July, 1830, the United States Government entered into a treaty with the above names tribes, by which each of the contending parties ceded to the Government a strip of land twenty miles in width along their line of division, from the Mississippi ina southwesterly direction to the head waters of the Des Moines. This was called the "neutral ground," and both parties were to have the privilege in common, of hunting and fishing upon this broad division line. About three townships in the northwest part of this county, were included in the neutral ground. The whites were not permitted to settle or make any improvements upon this tract, until after the Indians were removed in 1838.

In the Spring of 1838, the Governor of Wisconsin Territory appointed John W. Griffith the first Sheriff of Clayton county, who proceeded to summon the grand and petit juries for the first term of the "District Court appointed to be holden at Prairie La Porte, in and for the County of Clayton, in the Territory of Wisconsin, on the fourth Monday of May." When the time arrived, the Court was organized by Hon. Charles Dunn, District Judge, in a log house, the residence of Herman Graybill. Dr. F. Andros, was appointed Clerk, William Banks, United States Attorney, and James Churchman, Posecuting Attorney. As Grand Jurors, the following named persons who had been summoned, appeared and were empannelled: Elisha Boardman, foreman; David Springer, Dean Gray, Eliphalet Price, Edward Dickens, Henry Redmon, Solomon Wadsworth, George W. Jones, Daniel Rugby, Luther Mead, William Rowan, Horace D. Bronson, Allen Carpenter, William W. Wayman, E.R. Hill, Wm. D. Grant, and Ava Durrin. *
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*Those summoned, but not appearing, were James Henderson, James Brown, Robert Campbell, and Nahum Dudley, and an order was entered by the Court, requiring them to show cause at the next term, why they should not be fined for contempt. The Grand Jury after being charged by His Honor, were attended by the Sheriff, who conducted them to their private apartments in a shingle shanty belonging to Graybill, having a roof and three sides boarded up, and situated upon one of those peculiar mounds that are scattered over that prairie. The jury deliberated and whittled shingles; while the Sheriff rode sentinel on horseback, back and forth at a respectable distance on the open side of the shanty, occasionally halting to inquire, in his individual capacity it is presumed, if it was not "about time to go and take something." The only bill of indictment found by this jury, was in the form of a memorial to the court, upon the subject of the location of the county seat at Prairie La Porte, which as "they firmly and zealously believed was effected for the purpose of promotoing the private and individual interest of a few, to the great inconvenience of their fellow citizens, and highly detrimental to the general welfare of the county." The persons summoned to attend this Court as petit jurors were, Robert Hetfield, Isaac H. Preston, Dudley Peck, H.F. Lander, John W. Gillet, William Beazley, William Harper, D.C. Vansyckle, Samuel McMasters, Chauncey S. Edson, Samuel Hastings, Baldwin Olmstead, Matthew Peck, Herman Graybil, Martin Vansyckle, Andrew Whitaker, Nathan Springer, Andrew S. Cooley, Ambrose Kennedy, and William McDowell. The jurors and officers presented their accounts for attendance, and had them certified, when the "Court adjourned until Court in course," to Herman Graybill's grocery, to partake of a meal of venison and wild fowls, and drink raw whiskey. A general jollification was held until evening, when the most of them left "with building material in their hats."
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pg. 131
After Court the Sheriff commenced taking the FIRST CENSUS, preparatory to an election for the purpose of organizing the county, also including the present State of Minnesota which was attached to Clayton for judicial purposes. *
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*That part "north of Root River and extending west to the extreme part of the territory of Wisconsin," contained at that time 204 white males, 144 white females, four free males of color, and two free females of color, making a total of 354. "The number of persons within my division , consisting of two hundred seventy-four, appears in a schedule hereto annexed, subscribed by me this 29th day of May, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and thirty-eight. This division is confined to Clayton county proper.
J.W. GRIFFITH, Sheriff Clayton Co. W.T."

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pg. 131 continues

On the 12th day of June, the organic law of the territory of Iowa, received the approval of the President, and took effect on the 4th of July following.

On the 10th day of September the election was held, polls being opened at two places; at Turkey River settlement, where a town had been laid off by the name of Winchester, and at Prairie La Porte. Not being organized, as well as not having population sufficient to entitle it alone to any legislative representative, this county gave its vote with DuBuque and Jackson for Councilman, and with DuBuque for member of the House. The county officers elected were as follows: County Commissioners, Wm. D. Grant, Robert Campbell and George Culver; Treasurer, Ambrose Kennedy; Recorder, Frederick Andros; Sheriff and Assessor, John W. Griffith; Probate Judge, S.H. McMasters; Supremem Court Commissioner, Wm. W. Wayman; County Surveyor, C.S. Edson; Coroner, J.B. Quigley.

The second term of the District Court was held on the second Monday of September, at Herman Graybill's, Hon. T.S. Wilson, Associate Judge of the Supreme Court, presiding. S.V. Berry was appointed U.S. and Prosecuting Attorney, pro tem. The delinquent grand jurors of the preceding term, having been notified to appear and show cause why htey should not be fined for contempt; and not appearing were fined ten dollars each and costs. The next day however they appeared, were sworn, "and purged themselves of the contempt," whereupon the Court excused them and remitted their fines.

On the 6th of October, the County Commissioners met at Prairie La Porte, and organized by appointing Dean Gay, Clerk, and adjorned to the 15th, when they again held a meeting and commenced a county organization, George W. Jones, Allen Carpenter and Baldwin Olmstead were appointed Road Commissioners. Four election precincts were established, places for holding elections designated and Judges of election appointed for them. No. 1, at Henry Holtzbecker's -- judges, D. Springer, Henry F. Lander and Henry Holtzbecker. No. 2, at

pg. 132
Herman Graybill's -- judges, John W. Gillet, Patton McMellan and Baldwin Olmstead. No. 3, at Jesse Dandley's -- judges, Jesse Dandley, Allen Carpenter and C.S. Edson. No. 4, at Boardman's Mill -- judges not appointed. Permission was given to "precincts not having a sufficient number of votes to organize, to cast their votes at the nearest precinct adjoining their place of residence."

School Commissioners were appointed for the several precincts as follows: No. 1, Ambrose Kennedy. No. 2, Herman Graybill. No. 3, John Downie. No. 4, Jesse Dandley.

There are many items of record which were made at the commencement of business in the county, which we extract in some instances merely because they were the first, and other that are taken in the order in which they occur, for the purpose of future reference.*
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* On the 19th day of March, 1839, the first license was granted to sell intoxicating liquors, and the following entry of it was made in the commissioners' records by the clerk:
"Peter Legree made aplication for permit for to retail ardent sperits on the 19th of March and granted the same according to the last act of Wesconsin Legislature, Don at Prarie Laport, March 19th, 1839.
DEAN GAY,
Clerk of Board, &c."
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pg. 132 continues
The county commissioners during the summer, commenced the laying out of Prairie La Porte, which is part of the present town of Guttenberg, having secured the site for the benefit of the county. C.S. Edson, the county surveyor, was employed to do the surveying. the plat was filed for record on the 6th day of December, by H.F. Lander, Patton McMellan and W.W. Wayman, commissioners. *
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*It is said that the traffic in intoxicating liquors is difficult to regulate and keep within the intended limits, and that the ingenuity of men is often taxed in explicity prescribing what is intended. As an illustration of this, we copy an entry made in the commissioners' records of July 13th:
"Received of James A. McCllenan fifteen dollars to vend merchandize Groceries. Liquors not less quantity than a quart at prairie Laport. Clayton county in full for said licens. L.B. TOMPKINS, Clerk."
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pg 132 continues
The official bond of H.M. Rice, as Justice of the Peace at St. Peters, now Mendota, opposite Fort Snelling, in Minnesota, was duly approved and filed on the twelfth day of November.

At the April term of the District court, James Crawford was admitted to the Bar, and was the first attorney admitted in the county. The following is the first entry of a case determined, upon the records:

"Herman Graybill vs Edward E. Oliver -- Attachment. This day came the plaintiff by his attorney, and the defendant being three times solemnly called, came not -- Whereupon it was ordered that his default be recorded."

The first case in which a conviction was had, was U.S. vs Pierre La Gris for selling spirituous liquors to the Indians. A fine was imposed upon him of [illegible], and costs.

Hugh Kearney declared his intention to become a citizen of the United States.

During the summer of 1839, Capt. Wm. Grant and C.S. Edson began a saw mill on Turkey River, in township 95, range 6, and had got the frame ready to raise and some of the gearing nearly completed, when Col. Lander informed them that it was the opinion of the Indian Agent that they were on the neutral ground. They immediately went in search of the line and found they had got to the north of it about five miles. Nothing further was done upon the mill; but everthing except their tools was left, and when the prairie was burned over in the fall, the timbers and machinery were consumed.

Dr. F. Andros was elected to represent this county in the Territorial Legislature.

On the 14th day of January, 1840, an act received the approval of the Governor, to relocate the county seat. The commissioners appointed to select a new site, were D.F. Blythe, of DuBuque; D.L. Kirkpatrick, of Jackson; and Franklin Moffit, of Delaware. The act required the commissioners to "meet at Prairie La Porte, on the first Monday of May next, and proceed forthwith to locate a suitable place for the seat of justice of said county, with reference to the geographical centre, convenience and welfare of said county." The site selected by them was to be the county seat, from the 1st day of September following; provided, a majority of the qualified voters of the county should decide in favor of the same at the August election.