Maquoketa, or " Timber City, " the county seat of Jackson County,
situated near the southern boundary and on the river of the same name, is
the northern terminus of the Davenport & North-Western Railway (Maquoketa
Branch) , midway between Davenport and Dubuque, the two principal cities of
Iowa.
In 1838, Mr. John E. Goodenow emigrated from Warren County, New York,
crossed the Mississippi at Sabula, then called Charleston, and found a
family located there ofthe name of Wood, with a son-in-law named Steen. In
the spring of the same year Mr. Goodenow moved west until he came to the
Forks of the Maquoketa, where the unusual fertility of the soil, as well as
its many other natural advantages, induced him to choose this spot for his
future residence.
Between here and Davenport there was only one family, named Wheeler, located
at DeWitt, and Mr. Goodenow, in companywith an acquaintance named Bates, who
was living with him, desiring to go to Davenport, had to drag a load of
brush to break down the grass, and thus leave a trail by which to return. At
this time there was only one family between Maquoketa and Dubuque a widow
Mullin and her boys, and an old hermit-like fellow named Dixon, and only one
tavern in Dubuque, and that built of logs, and two or three stores at which
trading was done.
In 1842 the land excitement came to fever heat, and many towns sprang into
existence (on paper) , among others Bridge port, laid out by Col. Cox, about
two miles and half from where Maquoketa now stands. Another named Lowell,
but it was not until 1844, when Mr. Goodenow induced a man named Marr to
open a general store, that this became the center around which congregated
several families, who formed the neuclus of the future city of Maquoketa. In
1842, the first school house was erected of brick, manufactured for the
purpose by Mr. Goodenow. In 1846 he also erected another large building,
which became known as Goodenow's Hotel, or half-way house between Daven port
and Dubuque.
The first attempt at a school was in an old building, formerly used as a
blacksmith shop, which by patching up with sods and mud, was rendered
habitable. This was used until 1846, when Mr. Goodenow, having dedicated one
of the most beauti ful squares of ground in the city, a large and commodious
brick building was erected and called " The Academy. " Dr. Lake, at present
an honored resident of the city, was the first teacher.
One of the early settlers was John Shaw, who purchased a claim of eighty
acres in 1837, cornering where the Stephens stone block now stands, and who
settled on it in 1841. He was one of the most active and energetic men of
the place, and died in 1853. His family still reside in Maquoketa, and his
son is editor of the Excelsior, one of the leading newspapers.
The first white child born within the corporate limits of the town was
Wesley Nims, his birth occurring in 1840.
The Rev. M. Salter was the first minister who preached, and his first
discourse was delivered in 1839.
We herewith present a sketch written by Russell Perham, a worthy and
esteemed citizen of Maquoketa, who has long been a resident of the place :
"In March 1838, or forty years ago the coming March, Mr. John E. Goodenow
and Lyman Bates, of Warren county, New York, made the first permanent
settlement in Maquoketa. They found a Mr. Phillips on a claim one mile north
of town, on land now owned by the Sears Brothers, and S. Burleson, William
Vosburgh, and Calvin Teeple, on claims six miles west of town , they having
come in the year before, or in 1837. Of the latter, Mr. Burleson and Mr.
Teeple still live on the lands then select ed. Mr. Goodenow made a claim on
the south-east corner of Main and Platt streets, and Mr. Bates of the land
on which he now lives one and one-half miles south. Mr. Goodenow built a log
cabin on the north-west corner of his claim, upon the ground on which Cohn's
store now stands. This he resolved was to be the future home of himself and
prospective family. Here he remained, making that home as comfortable as
possible under the circumstances, until the latter part of the summer of
1839, when he returned to New York, and in September following married Miss
Eliza Wright, and with her and Thomas Wright and wife, and Amasa Nims and
wife, returned to this, the wild western home of his choice. About this time
John Clark and Jonas, his brother, together with Z. Livermore, John Shaw,
Charles, Wil liam and Achilus Gordon, and A. Spaulding came into the
neighborhood. Mr. Livermore made a claim on what is now the north- east
corner of Main and Platte streets, Mr. Spaulding on the north-west corner,
Mr. Shaw on the south-west corner, Mr. Goodenow already having the south-
east corner. Each built their temporary home on their claims. John Clarke
built a log house in the timber in the south- east portion, known as the
Arnold place. Charles Gordon built a blacksmith shop on Mr. Livermore's
claim, where the postoffice now stands, and a man by the name of Ab.
Montgomery had made a claim and was living on the place now owned by J.
Trout in the extreme south western part of town. Thomas Wright took a claim
three miles west of the town, and A. Nims located about four miles south. J.
Pangborn had also located on the land where he now lives, on the corner of
Main and West Summit streets. There were now eight or nine houses within a
radius of two miles and a few more further out. A postoffice was established
here in 1840, which was called after the name of the place, Springfield ;
but after Harrison's election to the Presidency, it was removed to
Bridgeport, and there remained for about two years.
" At the time of which we write, Iowa was a Territory of the Government of
the United States. Its lands were not in market and were not put on sale
until 1845, the year prior to its admis sion as a State. This district,
subject to entry at Dubuque, had been surveyed, and the settlers made their
claims from this original survey under the auspices of a claim society
composed of the first permanent settlers of Dubuque, Jackson and Clinton
counties. The object of this society was to protect its members in a
peaceable possession and enjoyment of their respective claims, against those
who might come at a later date, covet and seek to deprive them by unfair
means of their chosen homes. Each member, by the rules of the society, was
allowed to claim and hold until the lands came into market, three hundred
and twenty acres in a homestead.
" This society in its day was of great benefit to its members, inasmuch as
its rules and regulations were the only law known, except the Territorial,
which at that time was of but little ben efit, for the reason that its
executors were so remote and inac cessible. Many an industrious and
enterprising pioneer was compelled to appeal to it for protection against
the encroach ments of a worthless class of squatters, whose sole business
was the securing and sale of the choice claims of the county. This society
when appealed to through its officers would gather en masse, organize a
court from its own members, hear the evidence in the case, notify the
intruder of its findings, and unless its de cision was voluntarily complied
with, it was carried into effect by brave hearts and stout hands. This was
the only security of the people at this time, and many of this worthless
class of vagabonds were compelled to seek new trampinggrounds or suffer the
righteous indignation of the injured settlers.
"Under such circumstances was the first permanent settle ment made here, and
year after year new accessions were made to their numbers. About this time,
1840, it becoming apparent that a little business place must spring up in
this vicinity, quite a rivalry was manifested as to its location. Some were
in favor of Springfield , some of Bridgeport, and others of the place on
which the Rockville mills now stand. The postoffice having been removed to
Bridgeport that seemed to be the favored locality, and Jonas Clark got
timber on the ground preparatory to the erection of a small store building
at that point. At the same time Thomas Wright and Z. Livermore built a saw
mill on the present site of the Rockville mills, where afterwards Mr. Wright
built a wool-carding and cloth-dressing mill. Mr. Clark, changing his views
as to location, removed his material, built the house now occupied by Mrs.
S. D. Tubbs, and opened a store at that point, in which he did business for
about two years. In the mean time Mr. Goodenow finding his little
corn-cracker under his shed adjoining his cabin, and run by horse- power,
was inadequate to the wants of the people, secured the claim on which
McCloy's mill now stands, of Ab. Montgomery, at an ex pense of $25, threw a
dam across the stream, a portion of which is still standing, and built a
mill, putting in his own corn- crack ers . There being no bolts the people
were obliged to use their flour, bran and all, unless they sifted it out by
a mill seive. At this time there was no mill where bolted flour could be
obtained, nearer than Sage's mill, on the little Maquoketa, six miles north
of Dubuque.
" As an illustration of the rustic manner in which many of the first
settlers were obliged to live, we will mention the name of John Riggs, who
located three miles south of town. He put up the body of a log house,
covered it with poles laid crosswise, and piled prairie grass on top of
these for a roof. He moved into this rude tenement and set up his stove, but
where was his chimney to carry away the sinoke ? It would not do to build
one through the grass covered roof for fear of fire. But a happy thought
struck him—he would cut a hole through each of the four sides of his cabin
and run the pipe out through these, chang ing it from one to the other as
the wind changed. This is not an isolated case, for very many of the early
settlers occupied homes of no greater pretensions, and their diet was as
simple as their homes were cheerless.
In 1842 the postoffice at Bridgeport was re-located at Spring field, J. E.
Goodenow, postmaster, and the name of the office and place changed to
Maquoketa, an Indian name, signifying ' Bear River. ' Mr. John Shaw had
finished off a room in his block house, located on the present site of Mrs.
Shaw's brick dwelling house, and put in a small stock of goods. Maquoketa
was now triumphant. She had a mill, a store, a postoffice and a blacksmith
shop. Rockville and Bridgeport surrendered, and Jonas Clark, after a severe
skirmish with his partner, over the question of removing their stock of
goods to Maquoketa, in which revolvers were drawn, finally became master of
the situa tion and established himself on the corner of Main and Platt
streets. Mr. Platt Smith about this time, bought the mill erect ed by Mr.
Goodenow, put in bolts, made bolted flour, and the wants of the people
seemed almost satisfied. Thus matters moved on, new settlers came in, older
ones broke their prairie, fenced their improvements and replaced their old
cabins by new and more commodious ones built of hard wood.
" In 1847 David Sears and Pierce Mitchell came in with a stock of goods and
opened their store in the building until re cently occupied by Chas. E.
Northrop as a cabinet wareroom. Mr. Sears had been here a year or so prior
to this and had bought for the firm of Sears & Munson quite a large tract of
land just north of town. He now built a dam across the South Fork of the
Maquoketa River about one mile north of the crossing of Main and Platt
streets, and built a saw mill. He had platted and laid out a town at this
point which he called Lowell, and brought on from Cincinnati fine lithograph
maps of the projected town. Several of these lots were sold and afterwards
built upon. He built for himself quite a fine brick dwelling and commenced
the erection of a brick flouring mill, which was completed in the fall of
1849, and called the Lowell Merchant Mills. Thomas Wright removed his
cloth-dressing establishment to this place, and between this and the two
mills this became quite a place of business. But in a few years this
treacherous stream cut across lots above his mill, leaving it high and dry
and in a dilapidated condition, when all the machinery was finally removed
and the whole went to decay. Mr. Sears now had additional cause for damning
the stream more essentially than ever before, for it had floated away his
visions of wealth in his mills and projected town. A wag having passed the
place a short time after the mill was demolished, remarked to a friend he
met in regard to the general appearance of the place, said he saw a dam by a
mill site, but saw no mill by a damn'd sight. '
"From 1849 to 1854 nothing of special interest occurred . The remaining
Government lands in the vicinity, were mostly entered and undergoing
improvements by permanent settlers of some means, and the town, keeping pace
with the country trib utary, increased in business importance. At this time
the pro ducts of the farm, which was chiefly wheat, found no ready market
here, and farmers were compelled to go to Davenport, Camanche, Bellevue or
Dubuque with it, and as a general thing, realized only about fifty cents per
bushel for it, after spending two days in getting thirty to market.
" In the summer of 1854 the Iowa Central Air Line R. R. Co. , was organized
and received its charter, with S. S. Jones, of St. Charles, Ill. , as its
President, and John E. Goodenow as our resident Director. Its eastern
connections were located at Sabula, Lyons and Clinton, on the Mississippi
River, to run thence westerly to Hauntown, forming a junction, and from
there to Maquoketa. This project gave a new impetus and im portance to us as
a business point, and its improvement became more rapid and of a more
substantial character. In 1856 the company received from Congress a grant of
$ 12,000,000 worth of Government lands, on condition that the company
complete the road to Maquoketa by January 1st, 1858. In September, 1857, the
road bed was in such a state of forwardness as to com mence laying the iron,
and the parties who were to furnish it, were telegraphed to forward it. But
at this inopportune moment the Ohio Trust Company, through whose credit it
was to be fur nished, failed, and the result was, the iron manufacturers re
fused to fill their contract and the whole scheme was defeated.
" In 1860 a project for navigating the Maquoketa river was started, and a
steamboat was built expressly for that purpose ; but this, too, failed, and
we were again disappointed . " On September 3d, 1870, the Davenport & St.
Paul R. R. was completed from Davenport to this place, and the Iowa Mid land
from Clinton to Delmar, and on that day trains on each of these roads ran
into Maquoketa for the first time : that on the Midland running in from
Delmar on the Davenport track. This was a proud day for our citizens. What
they had been so long striving for was at last accomplished, and Maquoketa
from that day became the leading market place for a large section of
country.
"The Davenport & North-Western Railway is now doing a vast and increasing
business, under the efficient management of John E. Henry, Esq. , and the
thoroughly popular and gentle manly General Ticket Agent, Mr. J. L. Kellogg.
The passenger train is conducted under the supervision of that genial king
of punchers, Mr. Charles Mitchell, whose attention to patrons and fidelity
to the interests of the Company has popularized him with all.
" In 1873 the county seat of Jackson County was located here by the popular
vote of the county, and this gave increased importance to the place, and
from that day it has been the lead. ing business point in the county.
Situated as it is, on the Maquoketa river, midway between five excellent
water powers ; having to the north, and extending many miles east and west,
as heavy a body of as fine timber as grows in any country, con sisting
principally of white, red, yellow and black oak, maple, hickory, black
walnut, butternut, basswood and cottonwood, with several other varieties ;
while on the south, east and west, and extending for twenty miles or more,
lies a prairie country as beautiful to look upon, and of as fine a quality
of soil as the sun ever shone upon, and all under a good state of
cultivation . With no competing business place within twenty miles, there is
no reason why, under a just and liberal business policy by our business men,
it should not maintain its supremacy in the future as it has in the past,
and continue to be the center of trade for this rich and flourishing section
of Iowa. "
INCORPORATION.
On January 27th, 1857, Maquoketa was incorporated as a city, by a special
act of the Legislature. The charter was published March 31st, 1857 and
adopted on the 26th of April following. On the 4th day of May the first city
officials were elected, and the city government was inaugurated three days
afterwards, with John E. Goodenow, as Mayor ; John Pope, Recorder ; Z. Liv
ermore, Daniel Rhodes, A. Hall, J. N. Viall and P. Mitchell, Aldermen.
POPULATION, ETC.
The population of Maquoketa has been variously stated. The State Census
compiled in 1873-4, gives it a population of 2,112, but the great increase
in the progress and prosperity of the place since that time, as well as a
very careful estimate from the resources at our command, warrant us in
claiming for the city of Maquoketa a population of 3,000.
MUNICIPAL DEBT.
The city at present has an indebtedness of $5,000 , incurred by the erection
of the Court House, which was presented by the city of Maquoketa to the
county of Jackson.
EDUCATIONAL FACILITIES.
Maquoketa has a graded school system, which embraces every public school in
the city. Well may Maquoketa be proud of her high school, one of the
handsomest and stately edifices in the State. It stands on a rising eminence
in a beautiful square, commanding a magnificent view of the city and
surrounding country. It was erected in 1876, at a cost of $23,000. This
school is divided into six grades or rooms, each with a competent teacher ;
the whole being under the immediate su pervision of the efficient
superintendent, Prof. C. C. Dudley.
There are four other primary schools, one in each ward.
BANKING FACILITIES.
There are two well conducted banking institutions : the Exchange Bank of
Maquoketa, and the First National ; both doing
a safe and extensive business.
BUILDING IMPROVEMENTS.
The business houses and residences are all of a substantial and generally
handsome order, several being especially noticeable for their beauty of
design and architecture, such as the Harris Opera House ; Centennial Hall
and Block, erected in 1876 by Messrs. Field & Sutherland ; Exchange Block,
corner of Main and Pleasant streets ; Union Block occupied by S. Williams ;
T. E. Cannell's Building erected in 1872, at a cost of $3,500 ; Excelsior
Block and Merchants Block. During the year 1877 it is estimated that over
$75,000 was expended in building.
The new Decker House, now about completed, built by James Decker, formerly
of Watertown, N. Y. , is one of the finest hotel buildings in this part of
the State. Its dimensions are 45x140 feet, three stories high, besides
basement and attic ; well and substantially built of brick, and on a heavy
and permanent stone foundation, and will cost when finished, about $30,000.
The basement is 10 feet in the clear, the first story 14, the second 13, the
third 10, and the attic 7. The house contains 100 rooms and all finished
after the modern style.
Few if any cities of its size in the State can boast of as good school
buildings, churches, taken all together, court house, stores, hotels, when
the new Decker House is completed and opened, and none can compare in the
amount of good sidewalks. In a few years more, when the fruits of the spirit
of enterprise which now animates our citizens shall have time to be
realized, we believe a place containing more pleasant and attractive resi
dences can not be found. That the spirit to accomplish this is already at
work in our midst, can be seen by all who will take a walk around our
streets. In the list given below we have only attempted to give the amount
of the new buildings and additions of some importance, erected. Aside from
this there has been a large amount expended in repairing dwellings, other
buildings and for other purposes of which we have taken no ac count, that
would make the total run still larger.
The figures given are the actual amount expended as given by parties owning
buildings, and are not fancy figures made for the occasion to swell the
total. In our visits we have found that already many are making preparations
for building next year, which shows that the work has not yet been so much
overdone this year as to cause a standstill next year.
James Decker, finishing off and completing Decker House, commenced last year | $15,000 |
Barnes Bro's extension to machine shop on East Platt street | 4,000 |
A. S. Carter, house on Pleasant street | 7,000 |
Wm. Elsner, saloon, corner of Platt and Second streets | 5,000 |
Field & Sutherland, store on Main street, occupied by Tinker Bros. | 3,000 |
Wm. Speith, saloon on West Platt street | 3,000 |
Austin Munger, house on Maple street | 2,500 |
E. D. Shinkle, house on Prospect street | 2,500 |
Lee Shrigley, house on Otto street | 1,800 |
Dexter Field, finishing house on West Pleasant street | 1,500 |
J. E. Goodenow, store on East Platt street, now used as a saloon | 1,500 |
Evangelical Society, remodeling building on East Platt street into church and parsonage | 1,300 |
Wm. Gurius, house on Eliza street | 1,100 |
J. Whitfield & Son, addition to woolen factory | 1,000 |
J. T. Sargent, addition to house on East Maple street | 1,000 |
James Culverwell, house | 800 |
H. Taubman, remodeling house on South Main street | 600 |
Smith Warren, house on Niagara street | 500 |
Hugh Cravens, repairing and building addition to house on East Pleasant street | 500 |
Geo. Earle, addition to house on South Main street | 500 |
C. M. Dunbar, repairing house on Main Street | 500 |
Same, new house on Decker street | 300 |
Same, addition to house on East Platt street | 200 |
Tom Berkley, house on Vermont street | 450 |
D. M. Hubbell, repairing house on East Pleasant street | 450 |
Jacob Becker, addition to hotel on West Platt street | 450 |
Paul edinger, barn on East Platt street | 400 |
James Wolff, upright part to house, Eddy's addition | 400 |
Dostal & Hoffmann, ice house at brewery | 400 |
James Ralston, house on Second street | 350 |
D. C. Clary, remodeling school house into dwelling | 300 |
D. & St. P. R. R., new engine house | 300 |
H. A. Warren, barn | 300 |
E. C. Warren, barn | 300 |
Wm. Hancock, house on Eddy street | 300 |
Louis Anderson, house on East Maple street | 300 |
Mr. Henry, house | 300 |
G. W. Wise, addition to house | 250 |
A. J. House, addition to house on Mattison avenue | 250 |
C. C. Young, barn on Eddy street | 250 |
S. W. Hazard, foundation for house on Niagara street | 250 |
John Billups, addition to house on Eddy street | 200 |
King Steear, barn on Summit street | 200 |
Mr. Mosher, barn | 175 |
Alfred Rowe, foundation on Eddy street | 175 |
A. G. Hess, barn | 150 |
Andrew Clement, house on Otto street | 150 |
James O'Carr, addition to house on Summit street | 100 |
Dalzell & Culverwell, buildings on East Platt street | 100 |
Nathan Hatfield, wood-shed | 75 |
J. W. Fleming, barn | 100 |
Frank Miller, barn on North Main street | 100 |
D. H. Anderson, addition to house | 75 |
F. Amos, barn | 75 |
A. G. Hess, ice house | 75 |
John Odgers, addition to house | 75 |
Alex. Miller, addition to house | 50 |
Miss Hoyt, addition to house on East Platt street | 50 |
Geo. Isbell, addition to harness shop | 50 |
Roger Bros., blacksmith shop, Pleasant street | 40 |
Alex. Organ, buggy house | 35 |
PRESENT ASPECT OF THE CITY.
We herewith present a list of the various business establishments of the
city:
6 Dry Goods Stores | 10 Grocery Stores | 4 Drug Stores | 3 Hardware Stores |
4 Holiday Goods & Notions | 4 Clothing Stores | 4 Book Stores | 3 Boot & Shoe Stores |
1 Music Store | 6 Milliner Shops | 2 Dentists' Rooms | 2 Agricultural Implement Houses |
4 Art Galleries | 3 Printing Offices | 2 Banks | 8 Law Offices & Firms |
6 Physicians | 1 Bakery & Restaurant | 4 Watchmakers | 3 Cabinet Shops |
2 Butter Packers | 5 Shoe Shops | 11 Blacksmith Shops | 2 Pump Factories |
7 Wagon & Carriage Shops | 2 Foundry & Machine Shops | 1 Marble Shop | 4 Harness Shops |
1 Woolen Mill | 2 Cooper Shops | 3 Livery Stables | 3 Lumbers Yards |
4 Flouring Mills | 3 Saw Mills | 4 Butcher Stalls | 2 Brick Yards |
1 Gunsmith | 3 Barber Shops |
And there may be other branches of business overlooked.
In public buildings we have
5 Churches | 4 School Buildings | 1 Court House | 2 Public Halls |
5 Hotels | 12 Saloons |