---

CHAPTER IV

EARLY SETTLEMENT

LAND OPENED TO SETTLEMENT-THE FIRST TWO COUNTIES-THE FIRST SETTLERS IN WORTH COUNTY-FIRST HAPPENINGS-REMINISCENCES-INDIAN EXPERIENCES -PIONEER LIFE AND CUSTOMS-THE LOG CABIN-MEANS OF SUBSISTENCE-HOUSE RAISING-HOUSE WARMING-CORN HUSKING-QUILTING BEE

   As stated in a former chapter, the first white men to look upon the land now comprised in the State of Iowa, or to set foot upon the soil, were Marquette and Joliet, who visited some Indian villages in what is now Lee County in the summer of 1673. The first white settlement within the present borders of the state was founded by Julien Dubuque in 1788, where the city now bearing his name, stands. Eight years later Louis Honore Tesson received from the Spanish authorities of Louisiana a grant of land at the head of the Des Moines Rapids of the Mississippi River, where the Town of Montrose in Lee County is now located. The titles of Dubuque and Tesson were afterward confirmed by the United States Government, but with these exceptions no settlement was legally made in Iowa prior to June 1, 1833, when the title to the Black Hawk Purchase became fully vested in the United States.

   A few French traders had established posts along the Des Moines and Mississippi rivers about the beginning of the Nineteenth Century; Fort Madison was built in 1808 by order of the Government, where the city of that name is now situated; a trading house was built and a small settlement was made upon the site of the present city of Keokuk in the early '20s, and Burlington was founded in the fall of 1832, soon after the lands of the Black Hawk Purchase were ceded to the United States. But, with the possible exception of Fort Madison and the settlement at Dubuque, none of these settlements had the sanction of the United States, and from a legal viewpoint the occupants were trespassers upon the Indian lands.

   On that first day of June, 1833, when the Black Hawk Purchase was thrown open to white settlement, hundreds were waiting on the east side of the Mississippi and they lost no time in crossing over and selecting claims. During the next ten years the settlements were extended rapidly westward and in 1843 Fort Des Moines was built upon the site now occupied by the city of that name. A census taken in 1844 showed the population of Iowa to be 75,150.

   The first counties-Dubuque and Des Moines-were authorized by an Act of the Michigan Legislature in September, 1834. The former included all that portion of the present State of Iowa lying, north of a line drawn due westward from the foot of Rock Island and the latter embraced all that part of the state lying south of the same line. The present County of Worth, also Mitchell, was therefore originally a part of Dubuque County.

 

THE FIRST SETTLERS

   In the year 1853 a party of Scandinavians, under the leadership of Rev. C. L. Clausen of St. Ansgar, made a settlement in Mitchell County. In the early summer of the same year, however, four of this small band left the others and journeyed farther westward. These men were Gulbrand 0. Mellem, Aslak Larsen, Lars Aslaksen and Ole Faergerbaken. Of the four, G. 0. Mellem is given the honor of being the first settler within the bounds of the County of Worth.

   G. 0. Mellem was born in Hollingdal, Norway, November 13, 1829. The boyhood days of big life were spent in the hills of his native land, where he was a shepherd. In 1845 his parents emigrated to the states and four years later, 1849, he sailed for the New World. After landing in America he journeyed to Rock County, Wisconsin, where his parents had preceded him. For about a year he remained at home, then procured a job as raftsman on the lower Mississippi River, at which he worked during the winter months, returning to the Wisconsin farm in the summer to assist his father in tilling the land. In the fall of 1852 he was married to Caroline Evanson, also a native of Norway, and in the following spring he came, with Rev. C. L. Clausen and the Scandinavian colony to St. Ansgar. As stated before, he became dissatisfied with the farming prospects there and, with his three companions, came eighteen miles farther west and located. His claim later proved to be the northeast quarter of section 32, which ground now lies within the corporate limits of the City of Northwood. Although he made several removals during his life, Mr. Mellem remained a resident of Worth County until his death on August 31, 1891. His faithful wife lived until September 14, 1904. Ten children were born to Mr. and Mrs. Mellem, namely: Ole, Charles, Lewis, Mrs. G. A. Lee, Mrs. T. C. Rone, all of Northwood; Andrew, St. Paul; Minnie, Minneapolis; Elling, Glenwood, Minn.; Gus, Wyndmere, N. D.; and Mrs. H. A. Fryslie, Flasher, N. D.

   For a long time the Mellem home was the only one in Worth County, and consequently the other early settlers first visited this place for information about the country and for lodging. Many of them were from the Rock County colony in Wisconsin and were of Norwegian birth. G. O. Mellem had many experiences with the Indians who roved the plains in the '50s and has told of his dealings with the red men in reminiscence written in another part of this chapter.

   The second permanent settler in Worth County was Simon Rustad. He was born at Lillehammer, Norway, January 9, 1826. In March, 1852, he was married to Anne Eliasdather and then came to America, accompanied, of course, by his bride. Their first stop was in Rock County,, Wisconsin, where they remained until 1854, then traveled to Worth County, Iowa. Mr. Rustad located on the northeast quarter of section 31, just west of the Mellem farm, which gives him the honor of being the first settler west of the Shell Rock River. In this county he remained until his death in 1893. His wife died August 6, 1903. Nine children were born to them, namely: Betsy, Sam, Ralidine, Edward, Henry, Christian, Annie Elizabeth, Oscar and Marie Charlotte.

   About the time of Rustad's arrival in the county three others came-Christian Amundson, Ole Solimetien. and Andrew P. Nelson. The latter died in the fall of the same year.

   In the latter part of the summer of that year three brothers by the name of Hart came into the county and, after investigating the prospects, purchased the improvements made by Mr. Larsen, who had bought them from G. 0. Mellem. These claims were just north of the present city of Northwood. However, these brothers remained only until the next spring. They sold out to David H. Phelps, who, in company with Tilly McWithy, Hiram Bliton and the latter's two sons, Permeno and Willard J., had just arrived in the county to make a settlement. Phelps divided up this timberland with his partners and all began the erection of a home. The grove situated here was afterwards known as Phelps' Grove.

   Just before the winter of 1854-5 a trapper, William Burgett, came to Worth County and occupied a claim near that of Phelps. He had visited the locality ten years before while upon a hunting excursion and noted the promising outlook of the land, consequently when the opportunity occurred he returned. He married the widow of A. P. Nelson in the fall of 1855. In the late '70s he left this county for California. He was known as a very eccentric character, but a man whose friendship was staunch and true. It is claimed that his marriage with the Widow Nelson was the first in the county, this may be modified by saying that they were the first settlers to marry after coming here, but the ceremony was performed at St. Ansgar by Reverend Clausen and so could not be considered as a Worth County marriage.

   In the year 1855 Edmund Wright located at what was called Glen Mary, but in the following spring, with two brothers who had joined him, he moved to Wright's Grove, in Hartland Township.

   Charles Johnson made a claim in the western part of the township near what was Rice Lake on May 19, 1855. This settlement was followed in the next autumn Chauncey S. Lane, Benjamin Bloker and John M. Bennett and family. Hascal Skinner soon joined them, bringing his family. The first location selected by this group of settlers was near the east end of Rice Lake. In the spring of 1856 all of them moved a mile farther east and formed the nucleus of the Village of Bristol. Other newcomers of the year 1855 were: Abraham Christopherson, 0le Lee, Ole Aslakson, Lysbaek and Ole Hove, John S. Mark, Aslak Lee, Elling E. Svensrud, Hans Aslakson, Syver Syverson, Ole Hanson, Halvor H. Brekke, G. Jorgenson, Michael Paulson, Amos Leverson, Sever Johnson, L. 0. Anderson, G. Ryerson, Gulbrand Gulbrandson and Hans Tollefson. These men settled largely in the eastern and northern portion of the county. Some American and English settlers also located in the eastern part of the county during the same year. Among them were: Arthur T. Bolton, William Senior, John Elliott, Thomas Lowthian, Francis Cope and Edward Ripley.

   The year 1856 brought quite a number of pioneers to Worth County. Settlements were made over a large territory. Among those who came during this year and who were prominent in the early days were: Otis and Henry Greeley, Dr. James Keeler, Isaac M. Bolton, Alonzo Frink, Lars Larsen Loberg, Kittel Oleson, Benjamin Eyer, 0. Gulbrandson, Samuel Egbert, Joseph M. Molesberry, Stephen and Jonathan Wright, Martin V. and Amos Bentley, C. K. Hundeby, Isaac Cummings, Mr. Clemmer, Horace Crandall, Andrew Henryson, Madison Rice, Chauncey Bliton, Martin Hanson, Knudt W. Johnson, Ole Torstenson, J. S. Loveland, Darius Gardner, T. K. Hundeby, William Rhodes, John Bickel, William H. Pritchard, Joshua W. Thomson, N. W. Emery, W. Senior and Mr. Vredenberg, S. D. Green, John Elliott, Jerry Epworth, Aslak Gullickson, Gunder Sanda and Halvor Brekke.

   In 1857 came among the early arrivals the following named: G. H. Atwood, Soren Lau, Joseph Hultz, Halver Olson, Martin Hanson, William H. Perkins, W. Henry Russell, John Butler, David Wright, Charles Wardall, Lemuel Dwelle, B. H. Beckett, John M. Slosson, Robert Nicholson, John E. Towne, Albert L. Towne, William Anderson, Samuel D. Green, D. D. Franklin, S. H. Franklin, David Ayers, William Dixon, Enos Smith, Edwin Stevens, P. C. Towne, Asa Franklin, E. S. Winans, William Frankell and David Perry.

   More is written of these settlers in the chapter on Worth County townships.

   The settlers of 1856 and the early part of 1857 were just in time to experience the hardships and suffering of that winter, which has lived in the memory of all as one of the most severe and terrible ever known in Iowa. The small cabins were ill-fitted to withstand the cold blasts of that winter and many instances of frozen limbs occurred, many travelers were overtaken by the blizzards and perished or else struggled through the drifts to some cabin. William Rice, who drove the mail on the trail from St. Ansgar and Albert Lea, was lost in the storm one night and the next morning was found near Rock Falls. He was brought to the cabin of a Mr. Olson and attempts were made to revive him. The effort was useless as he had been frozen to such an extent that death soon resulted.

   Another instance is that of the son of David H. Phelps, of Northwood (Grove) Township. In December, 1856, on a warm day, he started from Mitchell County for his home. He waded the river at Newburg and so wet his clothing which was further soaked by a rain which soon came up. Snow followed, the air became very cold, and the boy's clothes froze upon him. This is all that is known of his suffering. When he did not appear at his home the father started over the trail in search of his body and unfortunately missed it. G. 0. Mellem found the body three days after near the site of the courthouse in Northwood, which was then just a plain. Evidence seemed to prove that young Phelps had crawled for almost a mile upon his hands and knees before death overtook him.

 

FIRST HAPPENINGS

   The first white child born within the bounds of Worth County was Ole G., the son of G. 0. Mellem. This birth occurred November 23, 1853. At this time the nearest neighbor of the Mellems lived about eighteen miles away. The second child born in the county was Samuel Rustad, son of Simon Rustad, which birth occurred July 14, 1854.

   According to the Worth County records the first marriage in this civil division was that of Elling Ellingson Svensrud and Ann Abramston on September 18, 1858. James Keeler, then county judge, issued the license and also performed the marriage ceremony.

   The first death in the county is supposed to have been that of Andrew P. Nelson, in the fall of 1854. However, in June, 1854, a man named Hall, attached to Pennybaker's surveying party, was drowned about four miles west of Northwood in Beaver Creek.

   The first road laid out in Worth County was one running from Bristol to Northwood and was opened in September, 1857. Samuel Egbert was the commissioner to locate the same and James Trumbull the surveyor.

   Gulbrand 0. Mellem erected the first house in the county in the summer of 1853. This was a log structure on the south side of what is now Main Street, Northwood. The small shack stood until 1874, when it was demolished.

   The first frame building erected in the county was that built by Johnson & Turnure at Bristol in the early spring of 1857 and was opened as a hotel in the summer of that year.

   The first regular store in the county was opened by B. H. Beckett, in the Town of Northwood, on September 9, 1857. The store was the only one in the vicinity for a number of years and, singularly, was opened in the first frame building erected in Northwood.

   The first sawmill in the county was erected by William Rhodes in the spring of 1857. This was near the site of the village of Fertile. Logs were sawed as early as July 1st of that year.

   The first Fourth of July celebration occurred at Bristol in 1857. The day passed with the usual features attendant upon such an occasion. Reverend Strowbridge delivered the principal oration of the day.

   The first man to make application for citizenship papers in this county was Knudt Brandson on June 1, 1858. The first to be fully naturalized were: Ole Knudson, Aaron Robinson and, Soren Bansen, who received their final papers June 1, 1860, before the county judge, James Keeler.

   Bristol was the first town laid out in the county, this in the spring of 1857, and here also, on October 3oth of the same year, was established the first postoffice of the county, with James Keeler as postmaster. The judge had his orders to procure his mail in any possible manner until the Government could establish regular post roads through this section.

   The first deed upon record in the county books is dated November 6, 1855, and was given by B. B. Richards of Dubuque to Daniel Leroy Harrington. It conveyed the southeast quarter of the southeast quarter of section 36, township 98, range 22, altogether forty acres, for the consideration of $i4o. The deed was first recorded in Chickasaw County and after the organization of Worth County was transcribed upon the latter county's records.

   The first mortgage is dated November 18, 1857, and was given by Norman Smith of La Salle, Ill., to James G. Beebe. The land covered by it is the east half of the northwest quarter and the northeast quarter of the southwest quarter of section 29, township 98, range 20.

The first land entry was made by Joseph M. Molesberry at the Decorah Land Office and consisted of the following described property: The northeast quarter and the southwest quarter of section 30, township 98, range 19. The entry was dated November 2I, 1854.

   The first sheriff's sale in the county occurred January 11, 1862, at which timeA. L. Towne, sheriff of Worth County, sold a quantity of real estate, the property of J. W. Dutton and others, to satisfy a claim held by J. W. Bliss.

   The first probate proceedings in the county consisted of the appointment of an administrator of the estate of Amos Wilcox of Silver Lake, who died in October, 1861.

   The first flour mill in the county was constructed by Lemuel and A. Dwelle. A feed mill was built by Charies Wardell in 1857.

   The first fire department was organized in 1883. The first bank in the county was established in 1869 and was known as the Worth County ]Bank. The first newspaper in Worth County was the Northwood Pioneer, issued in 1869 by P. D. Swick. The first railroad was built through the county in 1871.

   The first organized society in Worth County was the Old Settlers' Club, organized in the year 1856 for mutual protection against "squatters" and as an aid to holding claims of 320 acres. William Burgert was elected the first president and Samuel Egbert, secretary. The. constitution was signed by practically all of the early settlers in the county at that time.

 

REMINISCENCES

   From the writings of G. 0. Mellem, the first settler in the county, have: been taken the following reminiscences. These were first published in the Anderson Atlas of Worth County, 19I3, and are recopied here owing to their great value as historical material. "In the summer of 1854 a party started out from Dubuque to survey and lay out a part of Worth County into proper divisions and subdivisions. The head of this company was John Pennybaker, a nephew of the surveyor-general, and who was in a bad state of health, being of consumptive tendency and advised by his friends to breathe the pure, free air of the Iowa prairies. He had assembled his squad of five men, himself making the sixth, and after loading up their teams in Dubuque, preparatory to starting, took a rest of a day before making the move. John Blew, one of his companions, sat down upon the tongue of one of their wagons to rest. The day was bright and beautiful, an afternoon sun shone from a cloudless sky, and all nature rejoiced, as it seems always to do when we are blessed with that rarest of all days, a perfect spring day. Blew leaned his head upon his hands in apparent meditation, and suddenly looking up into the sky, told his companions, who were standing by, that he had seen before him in the heavens six men marching in Indian file from the east to the west, and after they had gone a short distance a man came from the south and joining them the seven continued on their westward march. All at once they stopped and appeared to dig, and when they proceeded on in a moment there were but six of them. All soon melted into thin air shortly after this. A hearty laugh greeted this tale and Blew was rather rallied about it quite often afterwards. "The party set out and while they were crossing the prairie somewhere perhaps in Howard County, an Irishman, from Chickasaw County, joined them as cook. The advent of this man from the south was so remarkable a coincidence with the vision that, although they still laughed with counterfeited glee, yet in their own minds they all felt troubled. After their advent into this county they related the whole story to Mr. Mellem and he laughed with them.

   "Now comes the singular part of the story. While they were yet running the lines in Northwood (Grove) Township, one of their number fell sick, and the horrible incubus of the vision weighed upon each man that they were doomed to lose one of their number and, of course, who else could it be but the sick man, He, lying there ill, conjured up the whole story of the vision, and feeling that he must die, desired that he might be taken to Charles City, that he might not die in this 'horrible wilderness,' as he termed it. Accordingly, Mr. Mellem was employed to drive him there and whilst he was absent the denouement came. It seems that one day it became necessary for the compass and other instruments to be carried across the creek, where it is very deep, and while the party was congregated together, discussing whether it was best to go above the head of the stream and thus turn it, or to build a little raft to carry their tools over the deep water, the cook, the Irishman, who had joined them from Chickasaw County, approached. Seeing that they were in a quandary he, naturally enough inquired the cause. He was informed. 'Is that all?' he said, 'why I'll put 'em on me back and swim across fur yees.' Now as he was quite a noted swimmer among them, and all felt that no danger would come to him, Paddy stripped and, taking the compass by the legs, threw it over his shoulder and struck out for the other shore. He had hardly made a half dozen strokes when he was seen to sink beneath the water. Not rising again every effort was made to reach him. All, however, failed in their object until too late, for when he was finally hauled upon the shore life was extinct. His companions buried him on the banks of the pellucid stream and all but Blew left for the settlements. The latter lingered a short time when he, too, went back east. Thus the survey was broken up by a singular dream and its fatal fulfillment."

   In speaking of the Indian scare of 1854 Mr. Mellem wrote:

   "I did not see any Indians after coming here until the morning of Christmas Day, 1853. It was early in the morning and we had just finished eating our breakfast, and my wife was washing the baby, while seated by the fire, when the door was partially pushed open and a painted, plumed head was shoved in over the top of the low door. I supposed, not thinking of the reality, that some of our friends from St. Ansgar, having come over to visit us, had indulged in the old country pastime of garbing themselves in fantastic dress, with the intent of scaring me. I rose up and shouted, 'come in, you fools, do you think that you can frighten me?' Imagine my feeling when there entered my cabin three buck Indians. Two of them were evidently of some rank, as they were the handsomest dressed Indians I have ever seen, whilst the third was the shabbiest, meanest looking. They, looking around the room, asked for 'Minnie, Minnie.' I, misunderstanding them, said I had no money, for that is what I thought they wanted and it would hardly do to let them know I had any. They saw a pail nearby on a stool, pointed to it and then to their mouths, saying, as before, 'Minnie,' which now I understood to be the Sioux for water. I gave them a drink. My wife was sitting there in fear and trembling, scared almost to death, and told me to give them everything they wanted. They now began to try and question me, but as neither of us could speak the language of the other, it had to be done by signs. They peered in the cupboard, went down into the cellar and up overhead, looking in every nook and corner as if in search of something or somebody. I now came to the conclusion that somebody had been into their camp up north and hooked some of their horses and they were in search of them and the thieves. I determined, therefore, to take them to my stables and show them my stock; so that they could see that I had none of theirs. This I did, but it did not seem to be what they wanted, and we seemed no nearer an explanation than before. They now took my foot and planting it in the snow showed me the track of a boot, asking this time plainly, by signs, if I had seen a man, or the tracks of a man with boots on, going south. I shook my head no; at this, one of them grabbed me by the head with one hand, while with the other he flourished a knife, drawing it across my throat. I thought my hour had come and for the only time I can remember felt scared. The Indian dropped his hold on me and seeing how frightened I looked, they all indulged in a good, hearty laugh.

   "While I was thinking what to do, they started suddenly for the cabin. Now, I thought, the slaughter will begin, and did not know hardly what to do, whether to run and hide in the timber, or go to the cabin. After a moment's reflection I felt my duty was to go to the house and see just what was going on, so at once proceeded there. I drew near with fear and trembling and, peeping in, expecting to see a horrible scene of bloodshed, saw my three red friends seated on stools around the fire, smoking their pipes. I knew that all danger, if there had been any, was now over and .1 entered quite boldly. I tried hard to learn their errand and partially succeeded before their departure, which was soon after. "It seems, from what I gathered from them and from others, that Joseph Hewitt, of Clear Lake, had been up among the Sioux in the quality of trader, and to help his trade in ammunition, etc., he had told them that the Winnebagoes were coming to raid them and that they had better be prepared. Not seeing their savage foes make an appearance, they came south to Round Prairie, where they threw up fortifications, remnants of which can be yet seen, sent out scouting parties, of which my visitors were one, in search of Joseph Hewitt, to learn of him the whereabouts of the Winnebagoes. They remained encamped there for sometime and early in the spring two Norwegians, returning from the Blue Earth country north on foot, came in view of six or seven hundred natives, who were indulging in war dances and hallooing like mad around a pole. The post was ornamented with the head of a Winnebago boy, who had been an attendant of Captain Hewitt's, and whom they had shot that day. The Indians had, by this time, understood the reason of Hewitt telling them the story and wanted to get hold of him to kill him. These two Scandinavians did not tarry long when they caught a sight of the ghastly trophy, but 'gave leg bail for security,' and on reaching the settlement spread the report of what they had seen. All was consternation now and all were making ready to leave the country at once. On their making a visit to Hewitt, whom they all knew was perfectly familiar with the Indians, he assured that there was no danger whatever; but when they looked around for him the next morning he, too, had fled, so they gathered up their traps without any more ado and left for the more thickly settled country at once, rousing up and scaring the country as they passed with their stories. Some, it is said, did not stop short of Decorah, and a few even reached McGregor.

   "The Indians, not finding Hewitt, made preparations for their return, not having injured a single white man. I would not run, nor was I scared, as I partially understood how matters were. Shortly after this, in the spring, I had to go to St. Ansgar to have my plough sharpened, and hitching up my team I packed in the wagon the wife and baby. While crossing the prairie, about on a line between this and Mitchell County, looking ahead I discovered a grove, where I had never seen a grove before. My curiosity led me to drive nearer and I finally saw it move. Can it be elk, I thought. On a closer examination I found it to be about three hundred Indians, emigrating to their homes in Minnesota. When I got closer up they treated me very kindly, entreating me by signs to go back, that they meant no harm, for they thought I was trying to run away, as I was journeying toward the settlement. They wanted me to buy a horse of one of them, but I did not think it best to be the purchaser, so drove off in peace. Soon after this they moved north and left the country for good.' Other narratives by the old settlers compare very much with this of G. 0. Mellem. Mrs. Simon Rustad at one time discovered five big Indians standing in the cabin, while her two children cowered in the corner of the room. They wished bread only and after they had secured this they departed in peace. Shortly afterward a lone Indian threw a half of a deer into the Rustad cabin in return for the kindness. The Spirit Lake Massacre in Dickinson County in 1855, committed by the Wahpekute band of the Sioux, who were renegades, hated by the whites and reds alike, caused much uneasiness over all this portion of Iowa and preparations were made by all the settlers to defend their homes or leave. The New Ulm and other Minnesota massacres of the early '60s caused a flurry of excitement among the Norwegians of Worth County, many of them returning to their homes in the East or Wisconsin. Fortunately, however, Worth County soil was never the scene of bloodshed between the white men and the Indians.

 

PIONEER LIFE AND CUSTOMS

   Compared with the conditions of the present day the pioneers of Worth County encountered some actual hardships and a great many inconveniences. One of the first problems with which the new comer was confronted was to provide shelter for himself and family. Most of the early settlers selected claims where timber could be obtained, and the first houses were log cabins. Often the settler's only assistance in building his cabin was furnished by the members of his family. In such cases small logs or poles, that could be easily handled, were selected and the walls were not more than six feet in height. Such a dwelling could hardly be called a "mansion," but it sheltered its inmates from the inclemencies of the weather. Sometimes two or three families would come together, when one cabin would be hastily constructed, in which all would live until each settler could build a house of his own. As the number of inhabitants increased the desire for better cabins grew and the "house raising" became a social as well as an industrial event. After the logs were cut into proper lengths and dragged to the site of the proposed cabin the settler would send out invitations to his neighbors, some of whom probably lived several miles away, to attend the "raising." These invitations were rarely declined, for the pioneers felt their dependence upon each other and were always ready to lend a helping hand.

   When all were assembled four men would be selected to "carry up the corners," and took their stations at the four corners of the cabin. Skilled in the use of the ax, as the logs were lifted up to them they shaped a "saddle on the top and cut a notch in the underside of the next log to fit upon the saddle. By cutting the notches a little deeper in the "butt end" of the logs. and alternating the butt and top ends the walls were carried up approximately level. No plumb lines were used, the walls being kept perpendicular by the eyes of the corner men. Doors and windows were sawed out after the walls were up. An opening was also-made at one end for a fireplace. Outside of this opening would be built a chimney of small logs, lined inside with clay to prevent its catching fire. If stone was convenient a stone chimney would be constructed, and sometimes a chimney would be built of squares of sod, laid up as a mason lays a wall of bricks. The roof of the cabin was of clapboards, split or rived with an implement called a frow and the floor, if there was one, was of puncheons, that is, thin slabs of timber split as nearly the same thickness as possible, the upper surface being smoothed off with an adz, after the floor was laid.

   Hardware was a luxury in the new country and many of the pioneer cabins were completed without a single article of iron being used in their construction. The clapboards of the roof were held in place by "weight poles," which ran the full length of the cabin and were fastened to the end logs with wooden pins. The door was made of thin puncheons, fastened together with wooden pins, hung on wooden hinges and provided with a wooden latch. A thong of deerskin attached to the latch was passed through a small hole in the door and furnished the means of lifting the latch from the outside. At night the thong could be drawn inside and the door was locked. This custom gave rise to the expression "the latch string is out," signifying that a visitor would be welcome at any time. The cracks between the logs were chinked with pieces of timber and plastered over with clay to keep out the cold.

   The furniture was in keeping with the house, being usually of the home-made variety and of the simplest character. In one corner was the bedstead, which was constructed in the following manner: a small sapling with two forks as nearly at right angles as could be found was cut the proper length to reach from the floor to the joists overhead, the forks being about two feet from the floor. The sapling was placed about the width of an ordinary bed from one wall and the length of the bed from the other. Poles were then laid in the two forks, the other ends of the poles resting in a crack between the logs, or in large auger holes. Across the poles were then laid clapboards, upon which the housewife placed her straw tick or a feather bed, if the family possessed one. Such a bedstead was called a "prairie rascal." Springs there were none, but "honest toil brought sweet repose" to the tired pioneer and he slept as soundly upon his prairie rascal as do many persons now upon more sumptuous couches.

   Holes bored in the logs and fitted with strong pins served to support clapboards for a china closet, the front of which was curtain of some cheap cotton cloth, though in many homes the curtain was lacking. Stools and benches took the place of chairs. A table was made by battening together some clapboards to form a top, which was placed upon a pair of trestles. When not in use the trestles were placed one upon the other and the top leaned against the wall to make more room in the cabin. Stoves were almost unknown and the cooking was done at the great fireplace, an iron tea kettle, a long-handled skillet, a big copper-bottomed coffee-pot and a large iron kettle being the principal cooking utensils. Bread was baked in the skillet, which was set upon a bed of live coals and more coals heaped upon the iron lid, so that the bread would bake at both top and bottom. The large iron kettle was used for preparing the "boiled dinner," which consisted of meat, and two or three kinds of vegetables, cooked together. Johnny-cake was made by spreading a stiff dough of cornmeal upon one side of a smooth board and propping it up in front of the fire. When one side of the cake was baked sufficiently the dough would be turned over to give the other side its inning. Many times a generous supply of Johnny-cake and the bowl of fresh milk constituted the only supper of the pioneer, but it was a supper which no early pioneer would blush to set before an unexpected guest. While preparing the meals, the housewife would nearly always wear a large sunbonnet to protect her face from the heat.

   Somewhere in the cabin was the gun-rack, which was formed of two hooks fashioned from the forks of small trees. In these forks reposed the long, heavy rifle of the settler, while suspended from the muzzle of the gun or from one of the forks were the bullet-pouch and the powder-horn. The rifle was depended upon in many instances to furnish the meat supply of the family, as game of all kinds abounded. Deer were especially plentiful. Animals were killed for their skins and the carcasses were left to the wolves.

 

SWAPPING WORK

   In these days, with plenty of money in circulation, and a bank in almost every village, when one needs assistance he can hire someone to come and help him. When the first settlers came to Worth County money was exceedingly scarce and they overcame the difficulty by swapping work. They assisted each other to build cabins in which to live; frequently ten or a dozen men would gather in a wheat field and while some would swing the cradle the others would bind the sheaves and place them in shocks. When one field was finished the whole party would move on to another, where the wheat was ripest and so on until the wheat crop of the entire neighborhood was made ready for threshing.

   While the men were at work in the harvest field the women folk would gather and prepare dinner, each one bringing from her own store some little delicacy which she thought the others might not be able to supply. Elk meat, bear meat and venison were common at such dinners. The meal was often served out of doors, under the shade of the trees and as each man brought with him a good appetite, when they arose from the table it looked "like a cyclone had struck it."

   Matches were rare in the new settlements and a little fire was always kept burning somewhere on the premises "for seed." During cold weather the fire was kept in the fireplace without trouble, but when the summertime came and fire in the house would render it uncomfortable, a small log heap was kept burning out of doors. If by some mishap the fire was extinguished, one of the family would have to go to a neighbor to borrow a fresh supply.

   How easy it is now to enter a dark room, turn a switch and flood the whole place with electric light. But when the first settlers came to Worth County over sixty years ago the electric light was unknown. Even the kerosene lamp had not then been invented, and the housewife improvised a lamp by using a shallow dish which was partially filled with lard or some other kind of grease or oil. Into this dish was placed a loosely-twisted cotton rag, one end of which projected over the side of the dish. The projecting end was then lighted and, although the lamp emitted both smoke and odor, it answered the purpose then, affording enough light for the good woman to attend to her duties. Next came the tallow candle, which was made by pouring molten tallow into molds of tin, a soft cotton wick having previously been drawn through the center of the mold. A set of candle molds consisted of six or eight candle forms soldered together. Often there was but one set of molds in a new settlement, but they were loaned willingly by the owner and passed from house to house until all had a supply of candles laid away in a cool, dry place. In the winter seasons the family would often sit around the fireplace with no light, in the cabin except that from the roaring fire.

   Nowadays, with well-stocked stores in every village and telephones in nearly every home it is an easy matter to call up the grocer and ask him to "send up a sack of flour." But in the days prior to the Civil war, going to market was no slight affair. Many of the settlers received their mail at Cedar Falls, Black Hawk County, whither they made periodical trips to mill, the one going to mill bringing back the mail for the neighborhood. McGregor or Dubuque was the nearest market for the produce of the farmer. With wheat selling for 40 cents a bushel and dressed pork from 2 to 3 cents a pound, a wagon load of such produce would hardly pay the expense of taking it to market. Yet the trip was made occasionally and the produce exchanged for a supply of the barest necessities, which was used with the greatest economy, for waste meant another long, dreary journey through, the wilderness to the trading post. Civilization gradually brought mills and markets closer to the people of Worth County and the long pilgrimages to other markets were abandoned.

   "Store clothes" were practically unknown in those early days. As soon as the wolves were driven out so that it was safe for the farmer to keep sheep, every pioneer had a small flock of those animals. The housewife would card her wool by hand with a pair of broad-backed brushes, the wire teeth of which were all slightly bent in the same direction. The rolls were then spun into yarn on the old-fashioned spinning-wheel and woven into cloth upon the hand-loom. Garments were then cut and made with the needle, the sewing machine not then having been brought into use. A girl of sixteen years of age who could not manage a spinning-wheel and turn out her "six cuts" a day or who could not make her own dresses, was a rarity in a new settlement. How many of the girls who graduated from the various high schools of Worth County in 1917 know .what the term "six cuts" means? Or how many of them can cut or make their own gowns unassisted?

 

AMUSEMENTS

   Although the pioneers had the hardships and privations it must not be imagined for a moment that their lives were utterly devoid of relaxation or entertainment. A popular social function in a new settlement was the "house warming." A new cabin was hardly considered fit to live in until it had been properly dedicated. In almost every frontier settlement there was at least one man who could play the violin. When the new house was ready for occupancy the fiddler was called into requisition and the cabin would give forth a "sound of revelry by night." On these occasions no fox trot, tango or hesitation' waltz was seen, but the Virginia reel, the stately minuet or the old-fashioned cotillion, in which someone "called the figures" in a stentorian voice, were very much in evidence. The music furnished may not have been classic, but the old-time fiddler could make his violin respond to such airs as "The Bowery Gals," "Money Musk," "Step Light, Ladies" and "Turkey in the Straw," and what he lacked in artistic training he made up in the vigor of his execution. If the settler who owned the cabin had scruples against dancing, some other form of amusement was substituted, but the house had to be "warmed" by some sort of frolic before the family took possession.

   Then there was the "husking bee," commonly called a "corn husking," in which pleasure and profit were combined. After the invitations to the shucking were sent out the farmer divided his corn into two piles as nearly equal in size as possible. When the guests arrived two of them would "choose up," and divide those present into two companies, the' contest being to see which first would finish its pile of corn. Both men and women took part and one of the rules was that the young man who found a red ear was permitted to kiss the young woman next to him in the circle. The young men were not above playing an underhanded game by passing the red ears surreptitiously from one to another.

   Women's clubs such as exist at the present time were then unknown, but the women had their quilting parties, when a number of them would take their needles and thimbles and gather at some house to unite in making a quilt. Then there would be a friendly rivalry to see who could run the straightest line or make the neatest stitches.

   In these ways and in many others did the early settlers of Worth County find their recreation and it is safe to say that their pleasures were doubly appreciated in this lonely frontier country. Their life was prosaic at the best and the few means of entertainment were in great favor.

 

---

 

Transcription by Gordon Felland, November 2001