Scott Co, Iowa - IAGenWeb Project DAVENPORT PAST AND PRESENT
_______________________________________________
CHAPTER XVIII.
__________
WILLARD BARROWS, ESQ.
____________________________________
A picture is included with this bio. Please return to
the Scott County Main Page and click on Pictures/Documents to view a picture of
Mr. Barrows.
Willard Barrows was born in Monson, Massachusetts, in 1806.
At the age of ten years, his father removed, with his family, to New
Braintree, where the subject of this notice spent most of his youthful days,
enjoying the benefits of New England Common Schools, and, at the age of fifteen,
was place at the Worcester Academy. His mind, from his boyhood, seems to
have been bent on travel and exploration. He loved to roam over the rocks
and hills of his native land, and often, at an early age, accompanied an old
mountain hunter in his night rambles after "coons," among the
precipices and glens for which that county is noted. He left the paternal
roof at the age of fifteen, and after spending some time in Pomfret and
Thompson, in Connecticut, at school, he passed two years at Brimfield, at his
Uncles, and, in 1827, located in Elizabeth Town, New Jersey. He was
for many years a very acceptable teacher of youth in that place, and married
there in 1832. His natural love of the "wild and beautiful" in
nature, led him to select as his profession, for life, that of a surveyor and
engineer. His first introduction to his profession was on a contract with
the Government in 1835, to close up the public surveys of the Choctaw Indian
Purchase in the cypress swamps and canebrakes, on the Yazoo and Sunflower
Rivers, in the State of Mississippi.
This expedition was full of danger, and interesting incident.
In the Winter of 1836 and '7, a sudden and unusual rise in the
Mississippi cut him off from any communication with the world - his supplies
grew short and he was driven, with his party, to the severest hardships, and for
many weeks they were forced to live upon short allowance. The whole
country was covered with water, except the few ridges that appeared above the
flood. The country was uninhabited. The larger game, by instinct,
had fled the country, and for several weeks he, and his party, lived upon the
fruit of the persimmon tree, and the Oppossum. These animals being slow of
locomotion, had only time to reach the higher ridges of land, and were easily
taken, and then eaten, without bread or salt. Occasionally an owl or hawk
was killed.
About the first of March, the water subsided, and the whole
party, after many hardships and privations, reached a settlement upon the banks
of the Mississippi, nearly opposite the mouth of the Arkansas River, and
procuring canoes, descended the river to Vicksburg and Natchez. After
making his report to the Surveyor General, at Jackson, in that State, he
ascended the Mississippi to St. Louis, and hearing much of Wisconsin territory,
determined to visit the country, and then ascend the river to Galena, and return
to New Jersey by way of Chicago and the Lakes. About the first of May,
1837, we find him on board the old Olive Branch steamer, bound for Galena.
Here he first became acquainted with Col. George Davenport and
D. C. Eldridge, citizens of this place. Much persuasion was used by these
gentlemen to induce Mr. Barrows to stop at Davenport, and make it his home.
He seems to have thought but little about it, until he found himself
sailing along the shores of Scott county. "When," he says in a
letter afterwards to a friend, in explanation of his object in settling in the
far West, - "the beauty of the landscape, the richness of the soil, the
salubrity of the climate, and, above all, the rich and rolling prairies, which
seemed to me so easily cultivated, were inducements enough for me, or any one
else to settle." Mr. Barrows landed at Davenport, and soon after, he,
with Gen. Sargent, and two others, were mounted, and on a trip of exploration to
the Cedar River, then but little known.
Mr. Barrows was so favorably struck with the beauty and
prospects of the country, that he determined at once to remain for a season, and
accordingly, reported himself to the surveyor General's office for the North
west, then located at Cincinnati, and he was that fall engaged upon the first
surveys of Iowa. During that Winter he was upon the Wapsipinecon River,
having left here in October, and did not return until the first of April, and
lost but three days, during that winter, of actual labor, being in camp
with nothing but a common canvas tent. "The succeeding winter,"
says Mr. Barrows, "was much the same in its mildness, and resembled the
present winter here, (1857 and '8.")
The Indians, at this time, were his only neighbors and friends,
always supplying his camp with plenty of venison, turkeys, geese and ducks, and
maintaining the most friendly relations.
In the Spring of 1838, he returned to New Jersey, having been
absent from his family for nearly two years, and returned with them in July of
that year, and settled in Rockingham, five miles below Davenport. The most
direct route at that time, from New York to the far West, was by way of the
Pennsylvania canal to Pittsburgh, down the Ohio River, and up the Mississippi
River to St. Louis, and thence to Rock Island. The time necessary for this
trip, at that day, was four weeks.
In 1840, Mr. Barrows was engaged in the survey of the Islands of
the Mississippi, from the mouth of Rock River to Quincy, Illinois.
In 1841 and '42 the public surveys being suspended, he turned
his attention to farming, and being Justice of the Peace, Post Master, and
Notary Public, at Rockingham, his time was occupied in discharging these duties
until the Spring of 1843, when he was sent into the country lying north of the
Wisconsin River, called the Kickapoo Country, to perform the surveys of that
rough, broken, uninhabited land, where he spent most of that season.
It was, while engaged upon this work, that his depot of
provisions was plundered by some straggling bands of the Winnebago Indians, and
himself and party reduced almost to starvation. Mr. Barrows had left the
camp in the Kickapoo River country for Praire du Chien after provisions.
Upon his return to the Kickapoo, with supplies, he found the whole country
laid waste by a Tornado. The country through which he had to pass to his
camp, some seventy miles, was heavily timbered, and the effects of the storm
were almost utter destruction for miles in extent - the forest was torn up by
its roots, trees up in the unlimited confusion. The occasion was one
demanding prompt, vigorous action - and Mr. Barrows found himself equal to it.
He first made the attempt to follow his old trail, and cut his way
through, with the help only of a few Indians, who love anything better than
work, but, after two days of hard labor, gave it up, having made only two and a
half miles. His next, and only chance of reaching his men, who were
fastened by the tornado, and whom he knew to be in a starving condition, was to
ascend the Kickapoo, with Indians, in canoes, until he should reach a point
opposite his camp, and beyond the tornado, when he could pack out supplies
through the wilderness, and reach his camp in time to save his men, if no
serious obstacles opposed. The Indians took up the provisions, and
Mr.Barrows went up by land, with one pack-horse only. The provisions were
landed, the Indians discharged, and Mr. Barrows left alone upon the banks of the
stream, just as the sun was setting. That night he carried his provisons
about half a mile, into the forest, and cached them as well as he could, and
early the next morning set out with a small bag of flour, and a little pork, on
his pack-horse, upon his unknown and perilous journey, to reach his starving
camp, full of intense anxiety as to the fate of his mission, and those whom he
desired to save. Any one who has ever visited this portion of Wisconsin,
can well imagine the difficulties to be overcome. It is the country
formerly owned by the Winnebago Indians, and purchased from them by Gov. Dodge
in 1834 - and very correctly named the "Sugar Loaves of Wisconsin."
It is almost impassable for man or beast - abounding in steep precipices,
high and inaccesible points of rocks, deep ravines, and inpenetrable thickets.
It was through this country that the celebrated Chief Black Hawk, led his
trusty followers, after his defeat at Dixon, on Rock River, and Buffalo Grove,
while on his way to Bad Axe, where he was captured. And it was among these
very hills and dells, that Col. Atchison, in pursuit of Black Hawk, got
entangled, and abandoned his wagons, baggage, &c., with the loss of many of
his horses. No man, with pack-horses, can cut his way over five or ten
miles per day. Without any trail, or even maps of the country to guide
him, Mr. Barrows persevered, alone, with only his faithful horse, to accompany
him, with indomitable courage and perseverance, swimming the streams that
opposed his course, and resting only when darkness compelled him. On the
fourth day, to his great joy, and surprise, he struck an old outward bound
trail, made by himself and men, in his first entrance into the country. It
was near dark, and his camp-fire was kindled, his solitary meal was eaten, and
in blanket, alone in the dense wilderness, he slept again till daylight, when he
was upon the trail, familiar to him, that led to the camp. He had gone but
a few hundred yards among the deep glens, when, on turning an abrupt bluff, he
came suddenly upon one of his men, who informed him that another of the party
was a short distance behind in a starving condition, and too weak to proceed;
that others of the party were left at the camp, two days previous, in dispair of
receiving any help, as they had supposed him murdered by the Indians, and that
they had been unable to kill game of any kind, except one small pheasant; that
they had eaten the two bear dogs, and boiled up the bones with nettles for soup,
and that they had had nothing for six days, but such wild berries as they could
chance to find. They said they had boiled coffee, of which they had
plenty, and drunk quite freely at first, but its effects upon them were very
unpleasant, and at times even distressing, and that they had abandoned it.
They were not long in reaching the companion of the first man, to whom he
soon gave, in small portions, some food, and hastened forward to the camp; here
he found the rest of his men, in a pitiable condition of emaciation, and with
looks of wildness and despair that was distressing to witness. They had
settled down into the belief that he was either dead or hopelessly lost.
They had awaited in confidence too long, without and effort to save
themselves, by leaving the country, and, perhaps, not having confidence in
themselves sufficient to find their way out of the wilderness.
"The camp presented a scene," says Mr. Barrows, "
that I could not look upon without tears. Upon a log were stretched the
skins of our bear dogs, while their bones were bleaching around the camp.
Some harness had been cut up, and roasted, to eat, and many extremes
resorted to to relieve them from utter destruction. The next morning we
commenced our slow march back to the depot of provisions, which I had made upon
the Kickapoo River. The scanty supply that I had taken with me, was now
being exhausted with fearful rapidity, and we hastened our march, to reach the
depot, that we might once more be fed with plenty. But what was our
surprise and consternation, when we reached it, to find it plundered of its
precious contents, and all carried away! Our misfortunes seemed still to
hang over us, and we felt that our sufferings were not at an end. Our only
chance of escape now was, to ascend the Kickapoo some twenty miles further, to a
ford, the place where Black Hawk crossed in his flight to Bad Axe, where his
last battle was fought. This we accomplished, and then struck across the
prarie country towards Prarie du Chien. On the third day we reached a
settlement, where we remained a week to recruit. There were remnants of
the Winnebago tribe of Indians encamped near this place. We informed them
of our loss, and instituted search through the entire camp, but found nothing.
The chief of this band told us, that some Root River Indians had been on a
hunt in the neighborhood, and had gone to Prarie du Chien. I pursued them,
but on my arrival there, found they had left for Root River. Many articles
of our clothing, that had been plundered from the depot, were found in the
liquor-shops of Prarie du Chien, which had been sold by this strolling band of
Indians. Our pack-horses, that strayed away at the time of the hurricane,
were found some four weeks afterward, and brought into camp. Thus, by
their absence, our party were compelled to eat dog instead of horse flesh!"
Up to this date, nothing definite was known of the Territory
lying between the waters of the Mississippi and Missouri. The title to the
lands bordering upon the Mississippi were being extinguished slowly, and in
small parcels. The Winnebagoes occupied a strip running from the
Mississippi River, at Prairie du Chien, to the Des Moines River, forty miles in
width, called "Neutral Grounds." The Pottowattomies had removed
from Rock River, Illinois, to the Western side of this state, bordering on the
Missouri. But few, if any but Indians, had ever crossed this Territory to
the Missouri. Trappers and hunters told many highly colored tales of the
beauty of the country, of its glassy lakes, with pebled shores, the abode of
vast herds of buffalo, elk, and deer; of feathered game, and of the finney
tribe. The spirit of enterprise, the love of research, and of Nature's
grand solitude, again prompted Mr. Barrows to shoulder his rifle and start upon
the trail of the red man. He wrote to Gov. Lucas, the Secretary of State,
the surveyor General, and others, proposing to explore the country lying between
the two rivers, sketch its topography, and project a map of all the country
lying between these rivers, as far North as the forty-third parallel. This
was accomplished in three successive years. On his first tour he
experienced many hinderances and difficulties from the Winnebago Indians.
He had ascended the Wabisipinica River to the boundary line of the Neutral
Grounds, early in September; built him a cabin for a winter depot, but could get
no communication with the Chief of that nation, until the return of the Indians
from their annual payment at Prairie du Chien, which was not until the first of
November.
The Chief's village was some five mile from his cabin. Mr.
Barrows had furnished himself with a native youth from the Mission School at
Fort Alkinson for interpreter. The arrival of the Chief, Chos-chun-ca,
(Big Wave,) was at last announced, Mr. Barrows invitation presented in due form
for the Chief to visit him in his cabin, which was not upon his grounds.
At the time appointed, the Chief made his appearance, with some twelve of
his warriors.
"He was clothed," says Mr. Barrows, "in a buffalo
over-coat, a stove-pipe hat, and a pair of green spectacles.
These had recently been presented by some officers and friends at the
Fort. I exhibited my passport from Gov. Chambers, and told him I wished to
go across his country, to make a picture of it, to show his great father, the
President.
After hearing me, and examining, with much minuteness, my maps
and sketches, some of which he corrected, he refused, with much earnestness, my
passage into his country for any such purpose. He said he very will knew
the object his great father had in sending me there, and that he had no great
respect for the "Big Captain at Washington," if he took such a course
to find out the value of his land-that if I found it good and pleasant for the
white man to live upon, it would be well, and his father would purchase it, but
if I found it bad, he would give him but little money for it, and, therefore, I
should not go."
After many entreaties and presents, Mr. Barrows found it of no
use, and, leaving part of his men at the depot, he set out, with but one man,
across the country, to Fort Atkinson, one hundred and twenty-five miles, on
Turkey River, without any map or trail, and with full expectation of being
overtaken by the Indians, and brought back. But on the first day out, a
dense fog covered the prairie, and it rained in torrents for twenty-four hours,
overflowing the banks of all the streams, which made it necessary to swim it
themselves and horses. On the second day, near night, they came back to
the first night's camp, in a small grove, having been lost in the fog and rain
the whole time, and traveling at good rates. It cleared up after a snow
storm, and he reached and traveling at good rates. It cleared up after a
snow storm, and he reached the Fort on the fifth day. The Rev. Mr. Lowry,
who had charge of the Mission School, at that place, gave him a passport across
the country, and wrote a letter to the Chief, which, being interpreted to him,
he was allowed to proceed. Not, however, until he had made him presents of
corn, pipes and tobacco.
"Barrows' New Map of Iowa, with Notes," was published
in 1854, by Doolittle & Munson, Cincinnati; and was a work, at that day, of
much importance. The Legislature ordered copies for each member, and for
the officers of state. Many works since written on Iowa have been largely
indebted to this valuable little work. It is brief, yet comprehensive, in
its character, easy and vigorous, and was the cause of satisfying a wide-spread
enquiry East in regard to the character and resources of Iowa.
From 1845 to '50, Mr. Barrows was engaged most of the time in
the surveys of the Govenment, and those of the County which he had charge of for
many years as County Surveyor, often making excursions into the newly settled
portions of the State, examining the most prominent points of location, in many
of which he has made, we believe, some very important investments. His
knowledge of Iowa, as a State, is probably as extensive and correct as that of
any man who ever traveled over it, and his judgment upon Real Estate investment
has been of the most judicious and satisfactory character, not only to himself,
but to those for whom he has operated as an agent. His present business is
that of a Land Agent, and a partner in the house of Barrows & Millard of
Sioux City, Iowa, and Barrows, Millard & Co., Omaha City, N. T. In the
Spring of 1850, business of all kinds being dull in the West, he seized upon the
opportunity to gratify his long and ardent desire to visit the plains, the Rocky
Mountains, and the shores of the Pacific.
This was a project of long standing in his mind, and he entered
upon it with much earnestness and vigor. Being fully equipped for such an
expedition, he crossed the State of Iowa early in March, and left the Missouri
River opposite Council Bluffs, in company with a California train, on the 23d of
Arpil, following the north fork of Platte River, through the present territory
of Nebraska, to Fort Laramie, through the Black Hills, and thence up the
Sweet-water River to the South of the Rocky Mountains.
His outfit consisted of a light two-horse wagon, with five
horses, and two men.
The year 1850, was one long to be remembered by those who passed
over the route to California. The season was cold and backward, grass did
not grow sufficient for forage until May, and for some two weeks of the early
part of the journey, the animals were fed upon dry grass chopped, and
rolled in wheat flour, and browsed upon shrubs and trees cut for that purpose.
This misfortune, at the beginning, so reduced Mr. Barrows' horses, as well
as others, that one after another of his team gave out, and either died, or was
left by the way.
He left his wagon on the Humbolt, making pack-saddles for the
horses that were left; and abandoning every thing but a few clothes, and his
surveying instruments, he, with his men, traveled on foot upwards of four
hundred miles before reaching the base of the Navada Mountains, at which place
he was left with only one horse to pass the mountains with, and which died soon
after reaching California, where he arrived the 15th of July. One of his
men died soon after his arrival.
A very interesting account of this trip was given by Mr. Barrows
in a series of letters from California, published in the Democratic Banner
of this city, at that time, describing, in most vivid colors, the difficulties
and dangers, trials and hardships, of a journey to the Pacific. His
description of the South Pass, in the mountains, so long looked upon as the
great barrier of all communication with the Pacific by Railway, is the most
graphic and satisfactory we ever remember to have read of this celebrated
land-mark of the mountains. He details, in full, the face of the country
in ascending the Platte and Sweet-Water Rivers, and at all the most prominent
points, gives the latitude, longitude, and altitude, showing the feasibility of
a Railroad thus far to the Pacific, which has since been fully endorsed by more
scientific research. We cannot here refrain from giving a single extract
form one of his letters:
"The South Pass," says Mr. Barrows, "is far
different in its appearance to what I had imagined, from any description that I
had ever seen. It is true, but little was known of it, and much less
written. I had imagined some chasm, or deep cut in the mountains, through
which we would be complelled to wind our way, or that I might,, perhaps, find a
pathway rent apart in the mountains by some great volcanic action, and thus we
should find our perilous way through this wonderful Pass.
"But it is far different. It is a beautiful prairie
country, even upon the summit level; and no one, with ordinary observation, can
possibly mistake the spot, marked by Fremont as the highest point attained in
the Pass.
"For days, the traveler, in his gradual assent, finds all
the streams running back towards the Atlantic, and as he follows up the last
rivulet to the summit, and passes over a level space of a quarter of a mile, all
the little brooks and streamlets begin to run for the Pacific. Then you
have passed the summit of the Rocky Mountains! I cannot describe my
feelings, as I stood and gazed from the lofty eminence upon all that is good and
noble in the works of Creation. A sense of solitude pervades the whole
scene. Upon the right hand, away to the North, are the Wind River
Mountains, with their tops covered with perpetual snow, and although some sixty
miles distant, yet so clear and transparent is the atmosphere is this high
altitude, we could even discern bodies of trees, and the drifted snow, as it
hung over the rocky precipices. The antelope, or the mountain goat, can be
seen feeding in quiet for miles distant, and the hunter is often deceived in his
approach to animals of the chase. The purity of the atmosphere is such,
that the traveler feels buoyed up with unusual vigor, and speeds his way with
uncommon ease and rapidity. Before you lies the Great Basin, five hundred
miles in extent, and as far as the eye can extend, nothing can be seen but a
vast plane, sleeping amid the solitude and grandeur that has filled this
desolate region since its creation.
"This Pass has derived its name, probably, from a
depression of the mountain chain at this place, and is seen only when at a
distance of a hundred miles. As the traveler approaches from such a
distance, it has the appearance of a gap, or cut, but when in it, it is one vast
space."
Mr. Barrows spent the Summer in California, traveling much of
the time. As the rainy season approached, he left there for Central
America, and thence to Cuba, where he spent some time, and returned to Iowa
early in 1851.
From that time until the present, Mr. Barrows has resided in
Davenport, busying himself in attending to his lands, Land Business, and in
erecting a capacious and handsome residence. This last, is about half way
up the bluffs, nearly opposite the Island, and overlooks a magnificent view of
natural and architectural beauty. The house is ample, finely finished, and
prejected upon a plan that marks its owner as a man of taste.
Mr. Barrows, we are happy to add, has secured, as the result of
his active life, an ample fortune, which no one is better qualified than
himself, by education, habit, and inclination, to enjoy.
His life has been a stirring and useful one; for, while ever
laboring to secure a competence, he has at no time been unmindful of the claims
of society upon each of its members, and has, therefore, at various times, given
letters to the public, containing valuable scientific, and other information,
while his work upon the map of Iowa has done more to disseminate a knowledge of
our State than anything of the kind ever published.
In regard to his social character, Mr. Barrows takes a high
rank. He possesses an illimitable fund of anecdote, pointed as to
witticism, and valuable for their information and he enjoys the sparkling bon
mot of conversation with the fine relish of a Frenchman. His own
portly form shaking with laughter over some reminiscence of the ludicrous, and a
choice audience roaring with mirthfulness, is a common sight to all who have the
pleasure of his acquaintance.
Liberal, charitable, a Christian, the possessor of a fortune,
respected, enjoying the best of health, and with social relation, harmonious,
and desirable, Mr. Barrows now rests after his eventful life, and it is the
sincere wish of all who know him, that many years will yet be his protion, which
may be as pleasant and happy as his early life has been laborious and active. |