INTERESTING ITEMS ABOUT WAPELLO AND ABOUT EARLY TIME IN LOUISA COUNTY.

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We find a number of interesting items about Wapello and about early times in Louisa county in a series of articles written by Robert E. Barr for the Wapello Tribune, beginning in June, 1905, and ending some time in September. Many of the matters referred to by his articles have already been given in this history and hence we make selections, instead of publishing them in full:

"About old Wapello. I remember once reading 'that in all the wide realm of fiction and reality there is no more strange and interesting story than a plain recital of the growth and development of one's home town.' It used to be lively here, but that was in antebellum times, or as the southern gentleman would express it, 'befoh the wah.' To be sure, things here then were not polished up with the touch of metropolitan ideas, and conveniences and comforts must have been meager, if experienced at all, as I remember my father telling about the early schoolroom here with its long rows of wooden, backless benches made from puncheon slabs with wooden pins for legs, and about the backache it gave one to sit there all day. But while those old schoolhouses with their antiquated seats were not elaborate affairs, yet in them could always be found a sensible 'schoolmaster' who was fully capable of imparting to the youth and maiden sufficient education to place them on the highway that leads to success.

"In those days the illuminating power consisted of the old tallow candle, and the writer can even remember a more homely affair used for lighting purposes— the old tallow dip—constructed by placing a piece of cloth in a small pan, filling the pan with grease and lighting the same. I can smell the fumes and disagreeable odors yet of those old 'grease lamps,' as they were called, and the stores, if you can imagine, how they must have looked at night with from two to four tall tallow candles giving light for the convenience of customers who came to trade. And in my own personal recollection. I can distinctly remember the new era regarding lights which was soon universally adopted in Wapello. This was the introduction here of the coal oil glass lamp. My father purchased and used the first coal oil lamp ever brought to town. It came from Muscatine, cost a good round price and he paid $1.25 for a jug of coal oil. It was quite a sight to see a lamp burning in those days, and the brilliant flame beside that of the old flickering candle was something grand. Soon more of them were brought to town and ere long the old brass candle stick and its monument of grease were soon relegated to the rear.

"As to social functions in those days, I am led to believe by what I have heard that people enjoyed themselves more then than now. To be sure, the violin was the principal instrument and from legends handed down, it seemed to attract the young folks from far and near to participate in a social dance to which there was an oyster supper always attached. Everybody knew everybody else and 'our set,' the 'dude,' and the 'smart' young lady were things of the future and the men smoked 'Cuba Sixes' instead of cigarettes, and nature's rose bloom on the fair ...

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... cheeks of the early Wapello girl supplied the place of powder, paint and other cosmetics of the present time. But they 'got there just the same.' Amusements consisted of cards, checkers, playing games and selling pawns. Nothing was known about the two-step, waltz, and parents were not so much 'on nettles' as nowadays lest their boys should come home drunk or get mixed up in all sorts of trouble, as is the case now. Operatic singing was unheard of in the good old times. In fact, there was but one really good singer in town and that was John Isett. He could sing, though, and when John saj1g his favorite song, 'The Star Spangled Banner,' you could hear a pin drop. It might have been that the air and words seemed more expressive than now; anyway, John Isett could sing it to perfection. And later on, I recall to mind a song rendered in public, at the courthouse, by Miss Lou and Albert Townsend. It was that sweet old melody of 'Annie Laurie.' She sang the words and Albert played the flute. If I remember correctly, they were paid $25 for their part in the program. It was good, though. In those early times a good entertainment and literary could be arranged on very short notice, because home talent was plenty and very good. Thomas Ives was always put on the program as critic and he was a good one. Tom, as he was called by everybody, was naturally very bright and witty, and when he would make his appearance he would 'bow and scrape' with all the dignity of a field marshal of France. The entertainments were good in those days, and if the little old 2x4 town hall, which used to be upstairs over the building just south of Mr. Levy's tin shop, could re-echo its experience, an interesting mingling of laughter and tears—results from the sublime and the ridiculous—would be the result. These entertainments were always good because such men as Tom Ives, Judge Springer, 'Lawyer Tom' (Edward Thomas), B. F. Wright, J. S. Hurley, John Hale, Dr. Bell, D. N. Sprague, all of whom 'knew a thing or two,' and an auxiliary of lesser lights contributed to the amusement of the public. Judge Springer and Edward Thomas were the first lawyers to locate here, occupying the building used as a residence by the late George Plitt. These gentlemen came from Maine. Later on Samuel Townsend conducted the office of county treasurer in the same building. ...'

"Few people are aware of the fact that on the present site where the high school now stands, a building almost as large was erected for a hotel. It was a fine brick structure. This was during the '50s, when Wapello was flush with the prospect of a railroad—the old Air Line which was surveyed through to Omaha. The building now used as a jail was originally erected for a bank, as it was the intention to build business houses on all four sides facing the public square or court house. The hotel gradually crumbled away and all of the cut stone used in the erection of Myron Hall was once a part of the big house which was to have been the pride of the town. . . .

"I saw some time since an article in the Republican stating that the first paper ever published in Wapello was conducted by James Noffsinger. Mr. Noffsinger was an uncle of my mother, and on the lot where now stands the residence of E. R. Tillman was where Wapello's first paper was established. Afterward the paper was published in a story and a half building on the lot now occupied by Aner Nearhood. John Jenkins, J. D. Barr and Aaron Melick, all nephews of Mr. Noffsinger, were the help employed, and that man Melick was given up to be the most homely young man who ever came to the town. But he was as sharp ...

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... as tacks and a great favorite here during the pioneer days of Wapello's early history. . . .

"It is seldom in a town as old as Wapello, which was laid out in 1839, and is therefore sixty-six years old, that a citizen is still living who was here before that event occurred, yet such is the case, and in our esteemed friend, Mrs. Jane C. Vanloon, we have a living witness to that memorable event. She was then a little girl, and was on the ground; in fact, child like, she followed the surveyor and watched him set his chains which marked off and platted a little piece of ground a trifle over a half mile in width, north and south, extending from Mrs. Wonnell's store down to W. C. Herrick's residence. The first rock planted for the commencement of the survey was at the northeast corner of the old Barr homestead in South Wapello. Mrs. Vanloon has been a constant resident of Wapello ever since her childhood days, when she witnessed the event of the laying out of the town from the virgin prairie soil, which formed a nucleus around which development and expansion has blossomed into a city of beautiful homes, fine churches and business enterprises. She has witnessed, no doubt with interest, the superseding of the log hut by the cozy, comfortable, modern home—the old straw shed give way to the warm, commodious barn—the vast prairie converted into the cultivated field—steel structures span the water ways, and last, though not least, the iron bound pathway of the railway, monopolize the business of the old stage coach. The change from the primitive to the developed state, which Mrs. Vanloon has witnessed in the past sixty-six years, no doubt contains memories over which she loves to linger, and which, if itemized as they occurred, would make a volume of interesting events. . . .

"In looking about town for old landmarks I find that very few of the old frame buildings of early times now remain. The oldest frame building perhaps in town yet in its original state is the dwelling house owned by Frank Gore and situated immediately south of the Presbyterian church. This building was erected by Fletcher Barr early in the '40s, the lumber in it being cut from the heavy timber north of town, and when he died, in 1850, the place was purchased by Sheriff A. M. Taylor. It is surely an old landmark and was erected fully sixty years ago. The old Wells property, now owned and occupied by Henry Westeman, is another old-timer, having been built by Levi Chase in the early '50s during the time when the old Air Line railroad was being graded through and beyond this place. The lumber from which it was built was cut and sawed at Herman, Missouri, and shipped to Wapello by water. There are many other very old buildings here, but most of them have been remodeled and therefore lost their originality as well as interest. The oldest brick building in town is the one occupied by T. C. Murphy as a stable. This building was erected by N. J. and C. M. Ives in 1840 and was used originally as the court house of Louisa county. After the present court house was erected the old brick was used as a public school building. Besides having the distinction of having been the seat of justice, the seat of education and the seat of early religious gatherings, this old historic landmark, yet in an excellent state of preservation, is without doubt the oldest building in Louisa county and perhaps in the state of Iowa. There were lively times throughout the county in 1839, for the reason that a county seat contest between Wapello and Fredonia was in progress, resulting in favor of Wapello. The present court ...

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... house was first occupied as a seat of justice in 1854 and on the ground upon which it now stands prior to 1851, an old sawmill was operated. . . .

"Not long since I heard an argument in regard to how far west the old Air Line railroad was surveyed, and as my father was a member of the surveying corps, I am in a position to state positively that while the destination was Fremont, Nebraska, the line was only surveyed to the west bank of the Missouri and stones were planted in Nebraska, somewhere near where Omaha now stands. It so happened that the survey run through an Indian burying ground, and a half-breed trader by the name of Sarpee, on the Nebraska side, incited the Indians to such an extent that General Curtis, who did the surveying, thought it advisable for the safety of the party, to return to Iowa as soon as possible and this course was followed as soon as darkness came. At that time Omaha and Council Bluffs were not in existence. . . . My father and Sam Curtis, a son of the General, acted as chainmen, and tramped clear across the state of Iowa, fording rivers, wading creeks, in the burning hot sun and through the woods, occasionally striking a settler on the route, but more often going for days and weeks over ground where perhaps human foot had trod before, but where the hardy settler had not, as yet, cast his lot. The trip was full of interesting events from start to finish, some of which I may perhaps at another time relate. Time has worked a wondrous change here in Wapello, especially in the topographical features. I am now writing in a house—my home—sitting high and dry, where less than twenty five years ago, when a boy, I skated over acres of water standing the year around and known as the old Goose Pond. The old pond was here when the first inhabitant came and what caused it to disappear so suddenly and permanently is one of the freaks of nature. Drainage, no doubt, has been a potent factor in the disappearance of many of the ague holes which in times gone by were numerous here, but many of them have apparently 'dried up,' as the saying goes, without the assistance of drainage, as is the case in the large pond which used to stretch along the edge of the bluff at the foot of Harrison hill. All rivers, it is claimed, in this country, are gradually moving west. Time has fully demonstrated this fact in our own Iowa river, which in the past fifty years has moved west at least 100 feet, some claim a great deal more. . . .

"I have before me a copy of the Wapello Intelligencer and in comparison with the up-to-date, neat and newsy paper of today, it presents rather an antiquated appearance. Looking backward and summing the matter up, I find that the career of newspapers in Wapello has been varied and eventful. Beginning with 1850, when the publication of the Louisa County Times was begun by James Noffsinger, down to the present time, Wapello has, at various times, possessed nine different newspapers. The town has had on three occasions, three newspapers published at one time. Such was the case when A. E. Caffey, of Alabama, published the Wapello Times, which was afterward taken to Columbus Junction and is now the Columbus Gazette. Again, when Julius Taylor, for a period of three months, conducted the Union Democrat, and on the last occasion when Clint. L. Price published the Louisa County Democrat, the Record and Republican were also published here at the same time. The Republican was formerly the Burris City Commercial, published on the west bank of the Mississippi river, a short distance northeast of Toolesboro. It was moved to Wapello in 1857 by Jacob Mintun and sold to J. D. Barr soon after. There was also, at various times, a spicy little ...

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... paper, The Rustler, published by the late Jay Hale. It was diminutive in size, but the potency of its locals and general reading matter made it, while it was in existence, a well patronized and general favorite. With the exception of the Tribune, J. D. Barr was connected with every republican paper, either as sole or part owner, which has been published in Wapello, covering a period of fortysix years—from 1850 to 1896. . . .

"In early times here the business part of town used to be on Water street or the river bank. It begun a short distance south of the bridge where Uncle Jakie Houtz used to conduct a shoe shop, and extended to the north part of town where John Drake kept a hotel. The present residence of J. B. McCullough used to stand over on the river bank, and years ago it was occupied by old man Helbig as a grocery and saloon. The late residence of Dr. T. S. Bell was in early times used by Fletcher and J. D. Barr as a grocery. During the early '50s when work was being done on the old Air Line, this little store was a busy place, as Mr. Barr supplied most of the groceries for the graders, all of which were purchased from John H. Gear's wholesale house and hauled overland from Burlington by team. Those were the days of 'wildcat' money and he who was wise would convert his cash into other property as soon as possible, but occasionally, in fact, quite often, great 'wads' of it would in a day become perfectly worthless. I recollect hearing my father say that one day the Air Liners paid their bills at his store, amounting to about $500, and the next day when the stage coach came in it brought word that the Bridgeport (Connecticut) bank had busted. In fact, it was broke days before he received the money from the railroaders, but there was no way then of obtaining information only at intervals, except through the medium of the Star Route Stage Line, and this was not a daily occurrence by any means. In those days the money question was a great bother. Defunct banks and their paper money became so annoying that finally Myron Vanloon secured a 'tester' and it was his custom, as well ad of others, to examine paper money before accepting same in payment of bills. But nowadays how nice and secure our money system is. We never question the validity of what we receive, knowing that Uncle Sam's gold basis scheme is a perfect safeguard against loss or fraud. . . .

"I have often heard the younger people of the town, most of whom were born since the Wapello bridge was built, inquire where the old ferry was located. It was at the end of Van Buren street just north of Porter Peters' livery barn. The old ferry became a thing of the past on the 6th day of May, 1874, when the event of accepting the bridge was celebrated in Wapello. In the morning the bridge was tested by hauling over it several loads of sand and at two o'clock in the afternoon the celebration was held at the west end of the bridge. The Wapello Silver Cornet Band enlivened the occasion with excellent music, and speeches and songs composed the program. B. F. Wright was the principal speaker of the day and remarks were also made by L. W. Myers and other prominent citizens. At the close of the ceremonies a grand bridge promenade took place, after which the public avenue of the bridge was declared open for all public uses. This occasion was the death knell of the old ferry which had been in operation here since 1857, a period of thirty-six years. On special occasions, such as the county fair and the Fourth of July, the old ferry did a 'land office' business. I have seen a string of teams, as close as they could stand, awaiting their turn to cross the river, reaching from the river bank to Second street. It was slow business and hard ...

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... work to conduct a ferry, as the propelling over and back was done with long poles. Every trace of the old landing is now obliterated and the ferry and its career, around which cling many pleasant memories, has been for thirty-three years a thing of the past. William Milligan conducted the first ferry, beginning in 1837, and John Carpenter, father of Mrs. Vick Nyemaster, operated the last boat. . . .

"Two other methods of money making, both relics of the past days here, were making shingles and coopering. Uncle Billy Perkins, at his location on Water street, in South Wapello, made thousands of split shingles, some of which today are still in evidence as the virgin roof of a few of the old-time buildings. And the art of making a barrel or keg was engaged in here for years by Herbert Thorndyke, for in those days when Uncle Jim Pemble and Amazi White were making so much good molasses, people required numerous kegs and barrels to store it in. That good, old-time thick molasses! But, then, that was long ago, before the art of adulterating with glucose and corn syrup was invented.

"The history of the Wapello schools, covering a period of sixty-five years, from 1840 to 1905, has been tranquil and uneventful. The first school was opened here, as stated above, in 1840 by John Gilliland, a surveyor. It was not a public school. Pupils were required to pay tuition and it was well patronized. Mr. Gilliland opened his school in a log cabin, his home, situated on the lot just north of Frank Pemble's residence and it was there where many of the late old settlers, and some few who are yet living, were taught their first lessons. Later on school was conducted in a building located on the lot where Ed Joy now has his tin shop. The old brick court house was also used for school purposes and in 1854 the brick building now owned and occupied by Gus Tiemeyer as a residence, was completed and opened for educational purposes. . . .

"From the perusal of an old paper published back in the '70s, I am of the opinion that some 'booze' was consumed here in old Wapello about that time. I had no idea that the people hereabouts were so sacramental or sickly, culinary and mechanical, until I read the auditor's report that during one year 1,510 gallons of intoxicating liquors were sold by the Wapello drug stores. There were also running at that time five saloons, to say nothing about the sale of Hostetter's Bitters. That was about the time when 'Smoky Row' was enjoying its palmy days, and Wapello had a reputation of anything else but sobriety. 'Smoky Row' at that time had four saloons, the other one being on Second street. There is now but one building standing on the old 'Row' and this is owned by Frank Mottet. The rest were destroyed by fire. On the old 'Row' I witnessed one day. in broad daylight, a negro break in and rob William Henry Dunn's butcher shop, and on the same corner a little later witnessed the shooting of Gus Myers. Then a temperance crusade 'struck' the town and things quieted down. To observe the serene aspect of the old street today would lead one, not acquainted with its previous record, to doubt its former breezy, brawly career. . . .

"In reading an old paper recently, we noticed an advertisement of the Grandview Academy. This place of learning, now used as a public-school building in that town, used to be quite a center of education. Years ago students from all parts of the county attended this popular institution of learning and its fame at one time promised to reach the proportions of a national reputation. But the management of the institution became faulty and the academy, as far as out- ...

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... side attendance was concerned, dropped, and finally went where the woodbine twineth. In the same paper we read an item relative to Christopher Shuck and Major Jacob Rinearson. Mr. Rinearson was one of the pioneer settlers here, while Christopher Shuck and wife bore the honorable distinction of being the first permanent white settlers of Louisa county, casting their lot over in Jefferson township, near Toolesboro, perhaps as early as 1830, if not before. Things became 'too tame' here for Mr. Shuck and he emigrated to Oregon in 1851. Mr. Rinearson also went to Oregon. Another interesting item in the old paper was to the effect that B. H. Druse had begun to make oatmeal at the old water wheel mill in the north part of town. . . .

"I remember the night well when the first passenger train passed through Wapello over the then 'brand new' B. C. R. & M. railway. I remember that John Bird's big brick house, which used to stand on the ground west of P. Richard's dwelling, was illuminated from cellar to garret in honor of the event. I," myself, was looking out of the haymow window of our barn, now used by Frank Gore as a carpenter shop, for the reason that the grass between town and the track was too tall for one to get a good view of the train while standing on the ground, and especially me, for I was scarcely nine years old. In those days the road was called the Burlington, Cedar Rapids & Minnesota, substituting afterward the word Northern for Minnesota. And the fact of that simple change in names made void and uncollectible, quite a lot of railroad bonds held by Wapello people, who did not protest at the time or present their bonds for payment. When it first begun operations through here, two of the passenger engines were named after John Bird and J. S. Hurley. Their names were stamped in bronzed letters on the name plate just below the cab windows. In those days and for years after, all engines in the west burned wood instead of coal. All stations along the line had a woodyard and the tenders were filled as the trains went through. Windmill watering tanks were not in use then and water was pumped by hand. A box car did service as a depot for quite a while. In fact, it was some time before everything was properly adjusted and the road running smoothly.

"It may be of interest to people here to know that the first frame house ever built in Wapello, 1835, was erected by Uncle Billy Milligan, as he was called, on the lot now owned by Mrs. Ben Weston. The old house was remodeled some years ago into a more modern design of architecture. This important fact is well worth remembering, also the fact that the first religious meeting ever held in Wapello was conducted in John Drake's barn. It was held by the Baptists in 1839. . . .

"Wapello is virtually the home and starting point of two important pieces of farm machinery—the stalk cutter and corn planter. Years ago J. B. Ryder invented the corn planter here in town, and when J. S. Andrews came here, being interested in the McCormick mower, he tried to persuade Ryder to go with him to Chicago, where he would insure him at least $6,000 for his planter, also a royalty. But Ryder instead went prowling around Brown's implement works at Galesburg, Illinois, with his planter ideas, and not long after, the Brown corn planter appeared on the market. Ryder 'lost out' completely, as his planter was not patented and another took advantage of what Ryder had shown him. As to the cutter, Ryder bought the right from a traveler who chanced through here ...

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... and was stopping at the old Ives Hotel. He induced L. P. Wells and J. D. Carr to join him in the enterprise, but being naturally of a stubborn nature and addicted to some bad habits, a general fuss soon ensued between the three partners and the cutter, like the planter, remained in obscurity.

"Looking back in times past it must be acknowledged that Wapello has been the home of several fine industries. There was the pork-packing establishments of Isett Brothers and Mark Davison, the big distillery, the iron foundry and the four-story woolen mill factory of Johan & Winter. There undoubtedly is a greater volume of business done here now than in past years, but it is limited to a few concerns. The variety and the business of former times was not so limited, and being of a different nature, was naturally better for the town and those who depend on manual labor as a means of support. . . .

"The making of illicit whiskey, commonly known as 'moonshining' is extensively carried on in Kentucky, North Carolina, West Virginia and other southern states, but that 'moonshine' whiskey was ever produced in Wapello would hardly seem probable, yet it has been and when Rollins was here in the distillery business, he once shipped a boat load of barrels filled with something marked 'vinegar,' consigned to parties in Chicago. The boat was loaded here in Wapello and started for Burlington. About this time William Henry Dunn happened to have a fine horse for sale and rode down to Burlington the same day the boat left the Wapello levee. He was about the streets of Burlington offering his horse for sale. Rollins saw him and suspecting that Dunn might be 'putting up a job' on his 'vinegar' kept an eye on him. Anyway, it so happened that just before the boat arrived, a dispatch was received by the chief of police describing a man who it was said had stolen a horse. Dunn's appearance, dress and horse perfectly answered the description and he was locked up in the Burlington jail over night. By that time Rollins' 'vinegar' was no longer in Burlington and it was ascertained that an innocent man had been 'jugged' and Dunn was turned loose. Later on Tom Pickering also shipped a load of 'vinegar' from Wapello and it happened to get caught in a railroad wreck in Illinois and was destroyed. Tom of course received pay for his 'vinegar' but his 'moonshine' deal busted the Wapello distillery. There were some pretty smooth 'ducks' connected with the old distillery here but their own sharp practice finally sent them to the wall. While it was in operation, the old distillery furnished a splendid corn market for the town and did a good paying business. . . .

"In speaking of negroes reminds me that Henry Polite was the first permanent negro resident of Wapello. He was captured by the Second Iowa Cavalry in Mississippi, and after the war located in this county and finally opened a barber shop in Wapello. Henry made a trip to his old southern home a few years later, and one night while down there was visited by the 'Ku-Klux.' When he went south he was attired like a gentleman—Prince Albert coat, white vest, gray trousers and silk hat. The next seen of him, he was footing it up from Burlington and was a sorry sight to see. He had parted with his gentlemanly wearing apparel during the 'Ku-Klux mix-up' and came back here wearing an old blue army overcoat, an old white hat, no vest and one boot and one shoe. They got his money down there and he told me that they got three other 'niggers' that night. . . . He escaped, he said, by going through a window which he did not stop to raise.

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"I have been thinking of some of the old-timers, among whom was Mack Watson. Uncle Mack was a tailor by trade, an Irishman by birth, and a very nervy, practical joker. Once there was a steamboat landed here which had considerable trouble coming up the Iowa and the captain concluded to engage the services of a pilot for the return trip, so Mack offered his services to show the skipper all the sand bars between here and the Mississippi river. Down the river a short distance the boat struck a bar and Mack sung out that this \va> such and such a bar. The process was repeated several times, each time Mack calling the name of the bar until finally the skipper told Watson he did not pay him $25 in advance to run them on every sand bar in the river, but wanted a man to keep them off the bars. Mack allowed that he had agreed to show them all the bars in the river and he guessed that he had fulfilled his contract. The captain thought so too, lowered a boat, put Mack ashore and he walked back to town. On another occasion when they 'got at cross questions' a bully proposed to fight Watson, and noting the difference in size between himself and his antagonist, he excused himself, saying he would be back shortiy, and disappeared. When he came back he had removed his upper garments and was covered with a thick coat of grease and soft soap, even to his hair, but the fellow backed down when he beheld Mack, saying that he had not agreed to fight a hog. . . .

"Mrs. Jane C. Vanloon is the oldest citizen in Wapello, that is, she has resided here longer than any one else. She was a very little girl when her father crossed the Mississippi river and settled here sixty-nine years ago. Her father came here as an Indian trader, swopping blankets, ammunition and other necessary articles and trinkets to Chief Wapello's band, and in the course of time he accumulated considerable property in this vicinity. The country hereabouts was indeed wild when she first visited the land on which the old town was afterward laid out. Three log cabins were then scattered at different places on the present town site, and greasy, Indian wigwams were numerous and became a common sight. Wild grass, ram-rod hay, rushes, swamp and water lilies covered the ground and narrow Indian trails wound their way in and out through the vast prairies and heavy timber. Indian canoes played up and down the river as they came and went on their hunting and fishing expeditions. No wells were in use then and water was carried from the springs at the north part of town. . . ."

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