"On the River"
Davenport Democrat and Leader
August 14, 1932
By Capt. Walter A. Blair
New Locks and Roller Dam
Expected to Forever Blot Out The Treacherous Rocks and Chains
which Make Rock Island Rapids Most Dangerous on Mississippi
With the building of the new locks and roller
dam across the Mississippi River Davenport and the coming of the
five foot water stage, the treacherous rocks and chains of the Rock
Island Rapids will be blotted out forever. The tortuous channel
that wound its way from Davenport to Le Claire, requiring services
of special pilots for all steamers will be replaced by the placid
surface of a lake navigable from shore to shore with perfect safety.
The dwindling of the river traffic in the
last twenty years has erased the memory of the strenuous days and
obscured the romance of the river. Yet the old inhabitants know
that every rock and chain on the upper rapids, as the river between
Davenport and Le Claire is called, is named and that every name
originated with a marine disaster. The entire length of the rapids
is wreck strewn and many of the wrecks were coupled with loss of
life.
Previous to the beginning of government work
on the upper rapids, its passage was so strenuous and nerve wrecking
and required such precision of knowledge and skill that no steamer
dared attempt the passage without special pilots who made
headquarters in Davenport and Rock Island and in Le Claire, Captain
Andrew Coleman of Rock Island was the dean of the fraternity.
Have
20 Foot Fall
The rapids have a fall of 20.4
feet at low water and over the entire distance the bed consists of
rock deeply worn in pools and rising in ledges knows as chains,
which stretch across the stream from bank to bank leaving originally
a depth in places of only 30 inches, even in the channel in
midsummer droughts. The greatest measured velocity over any chain
has been 8.36 feet per second.
The early day pilot was a man of iron nerve.
The moment he passed thru the draw of the Davenport-Rock Island
Bridge north bound he was on edge, with nerves taut and eyes alert.
He pointed the jackstaff of his steamer toward established landmarks
on the shore and held his ship steady as steel for an exact distance
then spun the wheel toward a new objective. All the way to Le
Claire this procedure was followed, and in spite of alertness and
skill wreck after wreck piled up on the teeth of the treacherous
rocks and the latter were christened by the vessels they despoiled.
Millions
Dumped in River
The government spent millions to smooth the
path of the river mariner. Prior to 1900 about one and a half
million dollars were spent and since that time many millions more,
the total exceeding the cost of the new locks and dam whose early
construction would have saved a vast sum. The work on the rapids
pulled jagged teeth, widened the narrowest places and established
piers and buoys and lights upon which to site the jackstaff and give
the course. The strenuosity was abated but the channel still
resembled a cork screw and the millions spent did not make river
traffic. It did not increase the all year depth of the channel to a
mark that would make transportation on the river commercially
profitable. The dam is needed to increase the depth to a point
where navigation will be safe at all times, and to blot out forever
the terrors of the upper rapids.
The present generation can hardly visualize
the vast number of steamers that plowed the Father of Waters in the
days before the stream was paralleled by railroads. Neither can
they realize the number of wrecks that piled up in the 15-mile
graveyard between Davenport and Le Claire. The river furnished the
big news of the day and river business swelled the population of Le
Claire to a city of over 5,000 during the period of the year when
the Mississippi was open to navigation.
The Crooked Water Trail
Leaving Davenport north bound and
passing thru the draw the steamer swerved sharply to the Iowa shore
and found itself not half a mile above the bridge in the Lower chain
and the famous Stubbs eddy, the channel was narrow to a point where
it swerved sharply toward the famous Moline chain. The danger was
so great upon entering this chain that the proper procedure was to
reduce speed and go ahead with utmost caution. It was the heedless
disregard of this procedure that christened Brazil rock. One
morning, about the middle of the last century the large steamer
Brazil was passing the Moline chain at a greater speed than
conditions warranted. Suddenly the pilot became aware that he was
off his course, “Back her” was the signal the bells rang fiercely
into the ears of the engineer. But too late! The Brazil was upon
the rocks and with a yawning gap in her hull sank to the bottom.
The name of the sunken steamer was thereafter identified with this
most dangerous rock in the Moline chain.
Naming
of Mason’s Rock
Issuing from this swift and narrow
passageway the up bound steamer came forth into a lake like channel
several thousand feet in width, gradually narrowing, however, and
running close to the Iowa shore. It widened out a little and then
narrowed again as it entered the troublesome Duck Creek chain. The
lower end of this rock bound passageway was guarded by a number of
small islands and the helmsman had to keep eyes open and his steamer
steady as he entered. But the narrow channel was not the greatest
danger, Sudden rocks abounded, even in the wider places, and Mason’s
rock, named from the ill-fated A. G. Mason, which struck and
went to the bottom in 1856, is located on the Iowa side just above
the upper entrance to Duck Creek chain. The wreck occurred three
quarters of a century ago but so disastrous was the accident that
the rock bears the name until this day. One foggy afternoon the
famous old War Eagle also stranded on the Duck Creek chain but was
salvaged and put back in commission.
Wreck of the
Silas Wright
A Comparatively free channel situated
somewhat to the Iowa side eased the tenseness of the up bound
steamer after passing the Duck creek chain, Just below Campbell’s
Island. Tho the river is considerably wider at this point than at
other places on the rapids the passageway for steamers is
exceptionally narrow. Winnebago Island reaches out its broadside
into the narrow channel and it was here that the Silas Wright veered
from the hairline course and floundered.
An Island
Christened in Blood
Beautiful Campbell’s Island, the peaceful
summer playground was christened by death and disaster. Early in
the last century a steamer owned and captained by a stout-hearted
man named Campbell, headed up the river. She was well manned and
powerful. Disregarding a warning of hostilities at the hands of
Indians Captain Campbell went forward with confidence in his power
and speed. Suddenly out from the shore of the island came a great
fleet of canoes manned by Indians in war paint and the steamer was
taken entirely unaware. In the bloody fight that followed Captain
Campbell laid down his life with nearly all the members of his brave
crew. The captain was buried on the island, which will probably
forever bear his name.
Three
Wrecks on Campbell’s chain
The name Campbell’s also given to the
chain of rocks on the Iowa side just opposite the upper end of the
island. It was about a half a century ago that the steamer Danube
met her fate on this chain but until recently the waters of the
Mississippi still dashed over the wreck. This disaster was one of
the most complete ever known on the rapids. The boat was entirely
lost and it was with difficulty that those aboard were saved.
Campbell’s chain was also responsible for the wrecks of the
Louisville and the Little Eagle.
Upstream the channel grows wider and less
obstructed. A short distance above Campbell’s island it reaches
close into the Illinois shore affording an excellent landing place
and it is here that Hampton is located, the village being situated
at an outward end in the Illinois shore and exactly at the point
where deep water comes closest to land. But immediately above the
town the channel contracts and a very narrow passage lead to the
famous St. Louis chain.
St. Louis and
Cabin Chains
St. Louis chain and Cabin chains are almost
continuous. Both lie to the Iowa side of the channel but the
channel is narrower and therefore they are nearer to the Illinois
than the Iowa shore. On a rock near the point where St. Louis chain
ends and Cabin chain begins the large steamer St. Louis piled up and
became one of the most notable wrecks of the rapids. The rock upon
which it struck has ever since been known as St. Louis Rock, the
steamer also giving its name to the chain. The financial loss
resulting from this wreck was one of the heaviest in the history of
the river.
Cabin chain, also known as Crab Island chain
has caused its share of wrecks. In the year 1856, the Mary C.,
a handsome little craft, hit the rocks like a battering ram and went
to the bottom. In 1888 the well-known rafter Ben Hershey went upon
the rocks and settled down with a large hole in her hull. She was
raised and returned to active service, but the experience was an
expensive one. The channel, up bound, form Cabin chain was very
narrow in the early days for a long distance but as at Moline chain
had the advantage of being comparatively straight. But unlike the
Moline chain it did not open into a wide and unobstructed expanse of
deep water.
Three Wrecks
on Sycamore
Even closer to Cabin chain than the latter
is to St. Louis chain lurked the limestone ledge called Sycamore. A
large amount of government money was spent to pull its teeth but
before the operation the channel was so narrow and crooked that many
wrecks were caused. The Emerald, Envoy, and J. K. Graves
all went down on Sycamore, the last named sinking in 1894. The
continuous stretch of chains was lengthened by Smith’s chains on the
Illinois and by the Upper chain on the Iowa side. From St. Louis
chain to Upper chain these ledges obstructed the river and left the
channel without a single relief. It was the longest and most trying
run along the entire river for the man who stood at the wheel. It
was this stretch that caused the government to build the
longitudinal dam and locks running north from Smith’s island, the
value of which improvement will be negated by the completion of the
dam at Davenport.
The
Bridge Disaster
There have been several wrecks at the bridge,
which connects Davenport and Rock Island. In 1854 the steamer Effie
Afton, up bound swung against the bridge and the sparks from her
smokestack started a fire that burned one span. The boat was
entirely consumed.
The Grey Eagle struck the bridge one day in
the 50’s, floated helplessly downstream and sank opposite Perry
Street.
Two steamers on the same day rammed the
bridge and sank. The Aunt Lettie a four-engine stern wheeler as
dignified as her name came sweeping down to the draw but lost
control just as she entered the passageway. She struck and stove a
large hole in her hull, drifting downstream; she was engulfed by the
waters just opposite what is now Pershing Avenue.
The same day the steamer Flora up bound,
while the wind was blowing a gale and waves were rolling high, was
tossed against the bridge and drifted back just below the grave of
the Aunt Lettie and sank to the bottom.
The wreck that is freshest in the memory of old time Davenporters
and which caused the greatest grief was that of the Jennie Gilcrist.
Just above the bridge her machinery broke down and a swift current
crashed her into a pier and she sank. Rescuers worked frantically
and nobly but in spite of their efforts nine lives were lost. After
the present improvements are made such a disaster cannot occur for
the terrific speed of the rapids will be greatly lessened and it
will lose its power to viciously ram the boats against the
bridge