NORTHWESTERN
IOWA
ITS HISTORY AND TRADITIONS
1804-1926
CHAPTER
VI.
PIONEER LIFE AND CUSTOMS.
BEGINNING OF ANOTHER ERA - THE CIVIL WAR AND RAILROADS CLOSE THE ERA
- PIONEERING IN NORTHWESTERN IOWA - MUSKRAT PELTS FOR MONEY -
PRAIRIE BLIZZARDS AND FIRES - THE BURNING OF CORN FOR FUEL - EARLY
CABINS, OUTSIDE AND INSIDE - FIRST HOMES FOR MERE PROTECTION - THE
CLAIM CABINS MORE FINISHED - DOORS, WINDOWS AND THE CHIMNEY - THE
SOUND OF THE NAIL HAMMER NOT HEARD - ROOMS AND FURNISHINGS -
BREAKING PRAIRIE - OUTFIT FOR PRAIRIE- BREAKING - PRAIRIE-BREAKING
BRIGADES - SAD PASSING OF THE OLD TIMES - WILD GAME FOR FOOD AND
SPORT - CLOTHING OF THE PIONEERS - RECREATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS . . .
. . . . . . . . . 195
What is designated as Northwestern Iowa had been penetrated and
traveled by trappers, uneasy adventurers, troopers and various
Government expeditions and waves of its first permanent settlers had
advanced mainly up the Des Moines and the Little Sioux valleys and
converged in the beautiful lake region of Indian tradition and
occupancy. The first site settlements centered around Floyd’s Bluff
and the future site of Sioux City, in 1848-49, and various Mormon
streams of emigrants flowing ever westward appeared soon afterward
and temporarily subsided in what are now Woodbury, Crawford and
Monona counties. These lively and energetic and, on the whole,
industrious religionists formed several enduring settlements in
lower Northwestern Iowa, and, although the bulk of the “faithful”
evacuated the state in the great Salt Lake movement of 1854, not a
few “backsliders” remained to become good and prominent gentile
citizens. Altogether the Mormon settlements were the most noticeable
feature of the permanent white occupation of the early pioneer
period of this section of the state.
While the Mormons were commencing to leave the country along the
Mississippi River and in the lower valley of the Little Sioux, other
settlers were pressing northward into
195
196 HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
what are now Buena Vista, Palo Alto, Clay and Dickinson counties.
The first temporary checks to this advance in skirmish formation
were the terrible winter of 1856-57, and the awful massacre of the
settlers in the Okoboji Lake region during the height and depth of
its blizzards and snow drifts.
BEGINNING OF ANOTHER ERA.
But these horrors passed away and the elasticity and sturdiness of
the American pioneer soon asserted itself. Stability and renewed
advancement were on the way. As stated by Benjamin F. Gue in his
“History of Iowa,” other bright rays were illuminating the
situation. He says, for example: “The hard times beginning with 1857
were passing away, and a steady and heavy immigration was annually
coming into the state in search of cheap homes. Thousands of eastern
men of wealth were sending money where the legal rate of interest
was ten per cent and the security as fertile lands as any in the
world.
“The reports
of the discovery of rich gold deposits in the eastern range of the
Rocky Mountains, near Pike’s Peak, in 1859, attracted thousands of
Iowa people to that region, and it is likely that these departures
in search of gold nearly equaled the immigration from eastern states
into Iowa. But the tide soon turned back and most of the gold
seekers returned tot he prairies of Iowa, better content to rely
upon the steady gains derived with certainty from the fertile soil
of well-tilled farms.
“Barbed wire fences had not then come into use and the farmers were
experimenting with hedge plants of osage orange, hawthorne, willow
and honey locust. Others were making fences by ditching. But the
common fence was of rails or boards and was the great expense in
making farms, costing more than all other improvements combined.”
THE
CIVIL WAR AND RAILROADS CLOSE THE ERA.
The Civil
war intervened to retard even the scattered settlements of
Northwestern Iowa and this fact was in no way more manifest than in
the complete cessation of railroad building. None of the four
railroads across the state for
HISTORY
OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA 197
which land
grants had been made in 1856 had been completed and none was much
extended when the Civil war closed; but by 1870, the Chicago, Rock
Island & Pacific, the Chicago & Northwestern and the Chicago,
Burlington & Quincy had all reached the Missouri River, and a few
years later, the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul completed its line so
as to give Northwestern Iowa another outlet and inlet.
In 1865, and for several years thereafter, Boone, in Central Iowa on
the Des Moines River, was a frontier railroad station on the Chicago
& Northwestern Railroad, and was called Montana. While the line was
being constructed to Council Bluffs, Carroll County was a favorite
hunting ground. Many trains were stopped and all on board, from
engineers to passengers, would tramp over the prairies to shoot
chickens, and a few returned empty-handed. That trains were delayed
mattered little to these pioneer travelers, until the officials made
drastic rules against hunting on the way. The engines and cattle
care of that early day were not large and a train of ten or a dozen
cars was heavily loaded. It required two nights and a day to pull a
stock train from the Missouri Valley country to Chicago, after the
line reached Council Bluffs in 1867. When trains were caught in snow
drifts and blizzards, the fatalities were multiplied. There were no
snow fences to protect the cuts and no snow plows to clear the
tracks. Traffic was thus frequently tied up, sometimes for weeks at
a time.
The building of the railroads marked the transition period from the
old to the new order of things, and the Civil war may be said to
have definitely closed the times when the primitive life of the
pioneer had been little changed by “improvements.”
PIONEERING IN NORTHWESTERN IOWA.
Again using
the facile pen of Benjamin F. Gue, who came to Iowa in the early
‘50s, and, as legislator, agricultural journalist and historical
editor and writer, was widely known in all sections of the state and
who writes as a participant in the pioneer times which this paper
covers, the following is authorative, as well as graphic: “This
period in North-
198 HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
western Iowa lingered along well into the ‘60s, as that portion of
the state was the last to be settled owing to the general absence of
forests. The prairies were vast in extent, generally inclined to be
level and in many cases defective in surface drainage, with frequent
ponds and marshes, the home of the muskrat. It was not until the
Homestead law was enacted by Congress (adopted by the General
Assembly of Iowa in 1849) that the people began to venture out upon
the great bleak prairies of Northwestern Iowa to make homes. Mostly
destitute of timber for cabins and fencing, with few deep ravines
for shelter from the fierce blizzards that swept over them in
winter, they long remained unoccupied after other portions of the
state were fairly well settled.
“But when the time came in which the head of the family could secure
160 acres of Government land, as a home, for fourteen dollars, the
hardy pioneers began to venture out upon the treeless plains and
devise ways to live without timber. Then it was that sod houses and
stables were invented. They were made by running a broad-shire
breaking-plow over the wet prairie where the tough fiber of the sod
of generations had accumulated, cutting it into long strips and
turning them over. These strips of sod were then cut up with the
spades into lengths suitable to handle and laid up like brick into
walls for houses and stables. A few poles brought from the nearest
timber supported a roof of slough hay, skillfully placed on like
thatching, and a comfortable shelter was made for man and beast. The
ground was smoothed off for a floor and until boards could be
procured for doors the skins of dear and wolves shut out the wind
and snow.
MUSKRAT PELTS FOR MONEY.
“Then it was
that the swarms of muskrats which inhabited every pond were utilized
to supply the family with groceries. Muskrat pelts were always
suitable for cash at the nearest town, where buyers had agents to
gather up all kinds of furs and hides of wild animals. During the
first year of life on the prairie, before crops could be raised for
market, thousands of homestead families were dependent upon trapping
muskrats for the cash they must have to buy bacon and
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA 199
coffee. The homestead was
exempt from taxes; deer and prairie chickens furnished meat for a
portion of the year; with industrious mending and the skins of wild
beasts the clothing was make to do long service; but some money was
indispensable for fuel and such scant groceries as were indulged in.
PRAIRIE
BLIZZARDS AND FIRES.
“Most of the homestead settlers were many miles from timber or coal.
Their teams were usually oxen, which could live on prairie grass and
wild hay, and break up the sod for cultivation. It was always a
perilous journey in the winter to the nearest town or timber, or
coal bank, for fuel or other supplies. It must be made generally by
one man alone, over a trackless prairie covered with deep snow. No
human foresight could guard against danger from the fearful
blizzards of flinty snow driven with an ever-increasing wind and an
ever-falling temperature that were so common in early days. With the
sun obscured, nothing was left to guide the bewildered driver toward
his destination, as the changing wind often misled him, and many
were the victims who perished in all of the early years of settling
the great prairies.
“Another danger that was encountered by the first settlers on the
prairies came from the annual fires. Early in the fall frosts killed
the wild grass and in a few weeks it became dry and would readily
burn. Many of the recent settlers were not aware of the danger and
neglected to take the proper precautions for the safety of their
buildings, stacks and even families. Emigrants crossing the great
prairies and camping at night where water could be found, late in
the autumn, were often the victims of carelessness or ignorance of
danger.
“There can be no more fearful sight or situation than the appearance
of a prairie fire before a strong wind in the night. The horizon is
lighted up in the distance with a vivid glow, and dense columns of
black smoke ascend in darkening clouds as the long line of fire
circles far to the right and left. At first the sight is grand
beyond description as the rays of the glowing red rise higher and
higher and the smoke
200
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
rolls upward in increasing intensity. But soon an ominous roar is
heard in the distance as the hurricane of fire is driven with an
ever-increasing wind, exceeding the speed of a race horse, and the
stifling atmosphere glows with the smothering heat of a sirocco from
a parched desert. Escape for man or beast is impossible unless a
back fire has been started in time to meet the advancing tornado of
resistless heat that can be stayed only by a counter fire. Houses,
barns, stacks, fences, bridges and all animal life are quickly
destroyed as the hot blasts strike them, and in a moment the ground
is left a blackened, blistering waste of desolation. The ruin of the
camp or farm is as complete as the wreck of a burning town, or the
track of a tornado. Scores of people and hundreds of homes were
annual victims of these fires in the early years of scattered farms
on the great prairies, before experience brought to emigrants and
settlers the wisdom to protect their lives and property by timely
backfires as soon as the frost had killed the grass.
“It was during these years of hard winters when the homestead
settlers ventured far out on the wild prairies at great distances
from timber and before railroads had penetrated the great plains
that they began to use corn and slough hay for fuel. There was no
market for corn within one or two days’ travel, and when the market
was reached eight or ten cents a bushel was all that a farmer could
get for his load. A large load would sometimes bring him from four
to five dollars.
THE
BURNING OF CORN FOR FUEL.
“This was the pay for raising forty bushels of corn on an acre of
his farm, husking it and transporting the load a journey of two or
three days with his team. The proceeds of his load would pay for
about a ton of coal, which he must draw back to his home and which
would furnish about as much heat as the load of corn sold. It did
not take the settler long to see that he might far better burn the
corn at home, and save a perilous journey at midwinter over the
bleak prairies, often at the risk of his life. He learned to twist
the long coarse slough hay into ropes with which to start his
HISTORY
OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA 201
corn fire and utilized a home-grown vegetable production to furnish
heat in place of the expensive foreign mineral production of the
same earth upon which he lived. Persons in the luxurious homes of
distant countries and state read of the burning of corn in the
morning paper by a comfortable grate fire, and were horrified at the
reckless destruction of food by the western prairie farmers.”
EARLY
CABINS, OUTSIDE AND INSIDE.
When the very early
settlers of Northwestern Iowa came into the country from the East
and Middle West, they were generally on the lookout for timbered
tracts such as they were in the habit of seeing in their home lands.
Some, however, settled in or around groves, where they would have
the advantage of easily cultivated prairie land and at the same time
have access to the wooded tracts for building purposes, fencing and
fuel. The cabins built were both of sod and longs and sometimes
composite structures, and when they settled at a distance for wooded
tracts and commenced to raise corn, as already noted, they often
burned that cereal as fuel. One of the pioneers who had experience
with both sod and log cabins thus writes: “A creaking,
canvas-covered wagon slowly came to a halt as the oxen, tired form
the long journey, ceased straining at the yoke. The driver looked
about him at the expanse of prairie, unbroken except for the timber
which fringed an occasional water course. Far behind lay his old
home. Days before he had crossed the Mississippi and leaving the
busy river town had pushed westward until he had passed all signs of
habitation and reached the virgin prairie. Nowhere was a sheltering
roof to be seen except the covered wagon whose protection was given
tot he women and children. The only table upon which to partake of
the plain meals of corn bread and bacon was the green earth.
“But this sketch is not biographical; nor does it deal with the
unique. All up and down the Iowa frontier this scene was being
repeated. Sometimes a lonely wagon made its way to the edge of the
unknown; sometimes a group of neighbors or related families made the
venture together. In every case, the pioneer’s first thought was to
prepare a home. It would be a dwelling place for his family, a
fortress against the In-
202
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
dians, a nucleus for civilization. Under these conditions, building
the cabin came to be an event of great importance and produced a
thrill of pleasure that could hardly be understood by those who had
never suffered the same privations.
FIRST
HOMES FOR MERE PROTECTION.
“The first home was necessarily a simple affair. In the prairie
country, where wood was scarce and sod was plentiful, the easiest
house to build was the sod shanty. The materials were procured by
taking the breaking plow into the low land where the sod was heavy
and plowing a furrow from sixteen to eighteen inches in width. This
was cut into sections, eighteen to twenty inches long, which were
then laid like brick. The roof was usually made of large rafters
covered with prairie hay or grass and covered again with sod. Often
the structure had a board floor and usually one door and one window.
It is surprising the amount of genius that could be expended in the
construction of a sod shanty. For this reason, there was great
difference in the appearance and arrangement of these cabins. Some
had an air of comfort, convenience and even neatness, which gave
them a genuine homelike appearance. Others remained as they were at
first - simply holes in the ground.
“Even in the wooded districts, finished lumber was not to be had and
labor was dear. As a result, the architecture of the house entered
very little into the thoughts of the early settlers - it was shelter
they wanted and protection from the stress of weather. Of dwellings
made of timber, perhaps the most primitive were the “three faced’
camps. These structures - sometimes called ‘cat faced’ sheds or
‘wickeups’ - consisted of three walls made of logs in their trough
state, the fourth side being left open. The first settler in a
community who had to build his cabin without assistance selected
small long that he could raise to the walls alone, but after
neighbors came larger logs were used. Across these walls, poles were
laid at a distance of about three feet apart, and on these was
placed a roof of clapboards, which were kept in position by
weight-poles. The only floor in the camp was the earth, and the
structure required neither door, window nor chimney, for the open side
answered all these purposes. Im-
HISTORY
OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA 203
mediately in front of the
cabin was built a huge loge fire which served for warmth and for
cooking purposes. These ‘three-faced camps’, built apparently in a
hurry to afford a resting place for a family without a home, were
temporary in most cases and were soon supplanted by more complete
dwelling places.
THE CLAIM CABINS MORE FINISHED.
“The claim cabins proper,
which followed these first buildings, required some help and a good
deal of labor to build. House raising were frequent and became
social as well as industrial events. After the logs had been cut
into the desired length according to the dimensions of the house,
they were dragged to the building place by horses. The neighbors
were then called upon to assist. Four men were selected to ‘carry up
the corners,’ and work began. As the logs were lifted up, a saddle
was hewn upon the top of one log and a notch cut in the underside of
the next to fit upon the saddle. By cutting the notches in the
larger end of the log a little deeper and alternating the butt and
top ends, the walls of the cabin were carried up approximately
level. At first the logs were put together with the bark on. As the
idea of decoration and elegance increased, a place was chipped along
two sides of each. Finally, the inside and outside of the cabin
walls were hewn so as to present a flat surface.
“When the house-walls had reached a height of seven or eight feet,
two gables were formed by shortening the logs gradually at each end
of the building near the top, and fastening each log to the one
below or to the roof logs. The roof was made by laying very straight
small logs or stout poles from gable to gable at regular intervals,
and on these were fastened the clapboards, very much in the same
manner as modern shingles, only with fewer courses, as the
clapboards were perhaps four feet long and generally about two and a
half feet tot he weather. Weight poles were laid over the whole and
were secured by long wooden pins driven into auger holes, which kept
them from slipping down toward the lower edge of the roof.
204
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
“When this sheltering
roof was completed, the small crack between the wall logs were
stopped with ‘chinking.’ The spaces were filled in with split sticks
of wood called ‘chinks,’ and then daubed over, both inside and
outside with mortar made of clay which had straw or hay mixed with
it to keep it from crumbling and falling out. In this way the cabin
was made comfortably warm during the long cold winter.
DOORS,
WINDOWS AND THE CHIMNEY.
“Sometimes an opening was
left for a door when the logs were laid, but usually the door space
was made by cutting an aperture of the required size in one side of
the room. The doorway was not always provided immediately with a
door, but instead the most simple contrivances that would serve the
purpose were brought into requisition. In some cases a quilt,
blanket or skin was spared for the purpose of guarding the entrance.
There is an instance in which a table is said to have served as a
door also, being taken down and used as a table and re-hung as a
door after meals. As soon as convenient a shutter of some kind was
provided. Sometimes this was a thatched framework, but more often it
consisted of two large clapboards or puncheons, pinned together with
cross pieces and wooden pins. The door was hung on wooden hinges and
held shut by a wooden catch. Through a hole above the latch a
buckskin thong passed, which when pulled lifted the wooden bar thus
allowing the door to open. For security at night this latch string
could be drawn in; hence as an expression of welcome, there arose
the saying, ‘The latch string is always hanging out.’
“Frequently, there was no window at first. Later, when duties became
less pressing, a hole about two feet long was cut out of one of the
wall logs. Whenever possible, the window was on the south side and
could be left open during the summer at least. Greased or oiled
paper pasted over sticks crossed in the shaped of a sash was often
used as a substitute for window glass. It admitted the light and
excluded the air, but of course lacked the transparency. Even
greased deer hide was sometimes used.
HISTORY
OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA 205
“The chimney of the western pioneer’s cabin was not built of stone
or brick, but in most cases of split sticks of wood and mortar made
of clay. Space was provided by leaving in the original building a
large open place in the wall, or more often, perhaps, by cutting one
after the structure was up. The fireplace - at least six feet wide
and frequently of such dimensions as to occupy the whole width of
the house - was constructed in this opening. It was planked on the
outside by butts of wood notched together to stay it. The back and
sides were built of stone, or wood lined with stone, or of stone and
earth, the stone-work facing into the room. A large flat rock in
front of it, called a hearth-stone, was placed level with the floor
to protect the puncheons from brands that might roll out of the
fire. For a chimney or flue, any contrivance that would conduct the
smoke upward, would do. Some flues consisted of squares of sod, laid
as a mason lays a wall of bricks and plastered on the inside with
clay. Perhaps the most common type was that known as the ‘cat and
clay’ chimney. It was built of small split sticks, two and a half or
three feet in length, carried a little distance above the roof and
plastered, both inside and out, with a thick covering of clay. Built
as they were, the burning of a chimney was a frequent occurrence in
cold weather.
THE
SOUND OF THE NAIL HAMMER NOT HEARD.
“Other accessories were added as soon as possible. The clay, which
had previously served as a floor and which had been beaten hard and
smooth by this time was over laid with a ‘puncheon’ floor consisting
of slabs hewn from logs. After the floor was laid, the upper surface
would be smoothed off with an adz. As a final touch of elegance, a
few more logs were sometimes put on the building, making an upstairs
or loft, which was reached by a ladder secured to the wall. Other
families built a better roof or an additions room.
“During all of this building process there was ordinarily no sound
of hammering of nails or rasping of the saw; only the dull thud of
the ax. The pioneer was often forced to build his cabin without
nails, screws, bolts, bars, or iron of any description. Wooden pegs
were hewn from the logs; the hinges and even the catch for the door
were wooden.
206
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
ROOMS AND FURNISHINGS.
“The living room was of
good size, for usually it served the purpose of kitchen, bedroom,
parlor and arsenal. In other words, the loom spinning wheel, chairs,
beds, cooking utensils and other furniture, were all arranged as
snugly as possible in this one room. With an ax and an auger the
pioneer met all pressing needs. The furniture varied in proportion
to the ingenuity of the occupants, except in the rare instances
where settlers brought with them their old house-hold supply.
“The articles used in the kitchen were few and simple. Lacking the
convenience of a cook stove, the work was done in and about the big
fireplace. The utensils of a well-furnished kitchen included an iron
pot, a long-handled frying pan, a skillet and sometimes a coffee
pot. Often a later improvement was found in the shape of an iron
crane swinging from the side of the chimney and carrying on its ‘pot
hook’ the kettles or iron post used in cooking.
“Sometimes a mantel shelf was made by placing clapboards across
strong wooden pins fitted into holes bored in the wall logs. This
shelf might hold kitchen or table ware, the candlestick with its
deer tallow candle and possibly an old clock. If the family were
lucky enough to have an abundance of table-ware, a series of shelves
with perhaps a cheap cotton cloth as a curtain might be built for a
china closet.
“The necessity of finding a more convenient and comfortable place
then the ground upon which to sleep produced the ‘prairie bunk.’
This one legged bedstead, now a piece of furniture of the past, was
improvised by the pioneer in a unique manner. A forked stake was
driven into the ground at a proper distance from the corner of the
room and upon it poles, usually of hickory, were laid reaching from
each wall. These poles were they touched the walls rested in the
openings between the logs or were driven into auger holes. Upon
these poles slats of clapboard were placed, or linden bark was
interwoven from pole to pole. Sometimes, an old-fashioned cord bed
was made by using basswood bark for the cord. On this framework, the
housewife spread her straw tick, or piled the luxurious mound of her
home-made
HISTORY
OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA 207
feather bed. Such a sleeping place was usually known as a ‘prairie
bedstead,’ but sometimes it was called a ‘prairie rascal.’ Beds of
this sort, however, were for the grown-ups. Children were stowed
away for the night either in low, dark attics, among the horns of
elk and deer, or in trundle beds which would slip under the large
bestead in the daytime.
“It was easy enough to improvise tables, bureaus and chairs. Often a
packing box answered the purpose of the first two, while smaller
boxes of the same kind served as chairs. Real chairs were seldom
seen in the early cabins; but in their place long benches and stools
were made out of hewn planks. These stools were often three-legged,
because of the difficulty of making four legs so that all would
touch the uneven floor at the same time. The benches were but hewn
slabs with a couple of stakes driven slantingly into each end of the
under side; and the tables in some instances were simply larger and
higher benches.
“In one corner were the loom and other implements used in the
manufacture of clothing; while the clothing itself was suspended
from pegs driven in the logs. As there was no storehouse, flitches
of bacon and rings of dried pumpkin were suspended from the rafters.
Over the door was usually hung the rifle and with it the powder horn
and hunting pouch. Luxuries were rare even among well-to-do people
and seldom was there so much as a strip of rag carpet on their
floors, although they might have large tracts of land, numerous head
of stock and many bushels of corn.”
BREAKING PRAIRIE.
The rearing of the cabin - sod or otherwise - and “breaking prairie”
marked the initial epochs of the pioneer’s life in the Northwest,
and the massive prairie-breaking plow was the most imposing
agricultural implement of his time. It was made to cut and turn a
furrow from 20 to 30 inches wide, and sometimes even wider. The beam
was a straight stick of strong timber 7 to 12 feet long, and the
colter or cutter attached to it extended down close to the point of
the shear. In the earlier make of plow, this sod cutter was a simple
blade, which was replaced in the later steel plow invented by John
Deere, of Illinois, by the circular disc. The forward
208
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
end of the beam was carried by a pair of trucks or wheels, and into
the top of the axle of these wheels were framed two stout, upright
pieces just far enough apart to allow the forward end of the
plow-beam to nicely fit in between them. To the forward end of the
beam and on top of it, there was fastened by a line or clevis, a
long lever, running between these stout standards in the axle of the
trucks and fastened to them by a strong bolt running through both
standards and lever; this bolt acting as a fulcrum for the lever was
in easy reach of the man having charge of the plow. By raising or
depressing the rear end of this lever, the depth of the furrow was
gauged, and by depressing the lever low enough the plow could be
thrown entirely out of the ground. One of the wheels of the truck
ran in the furrow and was from two to four inches larger than the
one that ran on the sod. This, of course, was necessary so as to
have a level rest for the forward end of the plow beam. The
mould-boards of these plows were sometimes made of wood protected by
narrow strips of steel or band-iron and fastened to the mould-board.
In some cases, these mould-boards were made entirely of iron rods,
which generally gave the best satisfaction. The share of these
pioneer plows - or “shear,” as generally called in the West - had to
be made of the very best steel so as to carry a keen edge. The
original prairie sod was one web of small tough roots, and hence the
necessity of a razor-like edge on the shear to secure good work and
ease to the team.
L. S. Coffin, for so many years identified with the agricultural
interests of the Fort Doge region and a humanitarian and
philanthropist of honorable note, describes the ole-time plow as
above and continues the picture of prairie breaking: “And next the
prairie breaking-plow team. Who sees the like of it today? A string
of from three to six yokes of oxen hitched to this long blow-beam,
the driver clad in somewhat of a cowboy style, and armed with a
whip, the handle of which resembled a long, slender fishing-rod,
with a lash that when wielded by an expert was so severe that the
oxen had learned to fear it as much as the New England oxen did the
Yankee ox-goad with its brad.
“The season for breaking prairie varied as the spring and summer
were early or late, wet or dry. The best results
HISTORY
OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA 209
were had by beginning to plow after the grass had a pretty good
start, and quitting the work some time before it was ready for the
scythe. The main object aimed at was to secure as complete a rotting
of the sod as possible. To this end the plow was gauged to cut only
one and a half to two inches deep. Then if the mould-board was so
shaped as to ‘kink’ the sod as it was turned over, all the better,
as in the early days of prairie breaking very little use was made of
the ground the first year. The object was to have the land in as
good a shape as possible for sowing wheat the following spring. A
dry season, thin breaking, ‘kinky’ furrows, and not too long
breaking, accomplished this, and made the putting in of wheat the
following spring an easy task. But, on the contrary, if broken too
deeply, and the furrows laid flat and smooth, or in a wet season, or
if broken too late, the job of seeding the wheat on tough sod was a
hard and slow one.
OUTFIT
FOR PRAIRIE-BREAKING.
“The outfit for prairie-breaking was usually about as follows: Three
to six yokes of oxen, a covered wagon, a small kit of tools, and
among these always a good assortment of files for sharpening the
plow-share, a few cooking utensils, and sometimes a dog and pony.
The oxen, when the day’s work was don, were turned loose to feed on
the grass. To one or more was attached a far-sounding bell, so as to
betray their whereabouts at all times. The pony and dog came in good
play for company, and in gathering up the oxen when wanted. The
season for breaking would average about two months. The price per
acre for breaking varied from $2.50 to $4.50, as the man was boarded
or ‘found’ himself. In latter years when it was learned that flax
could be raised to good advantage on new breaking, and that it
helped to rot the sod, the breaking season commenced much earlier.
“Three yokes of good-sized oxen drawing a 24-inch plow, with two men
to manage the work, would ordinarily break about two acres a day;
five yokes with a 36-inch plow, requiring no more men to run the
machine, would break three acres a day. When the plow was kept
running continuously, the shear had to be taken to the blacksmith as
often as once
14V1
210 HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
a week to be drawn out thin so that a keen knife-edge could be
easily put on it with a file by the men who managed the plow. If the
team was going around an 80-acre tract of prairie, the lay or shear
had to be filed after each round to do the best work. The skilful
breaker tried to run his plow one and a half inches deep and no
deeper. This was for the purpose of splitting the sod across the
mass of tough fibrous roots, which had lain undisturbed for
uncounted years and had formed a network of interlaced sinews as
difficult to cut as India rubber, where the prairie was inclined to
be wet; and it was not easy to find an entire 80-acre tract that was
not intersected with numerous sloughs across which the breaking plow
had to run. In may places the sod in these sloughs was so tough that
it was with the greatest difficulty that the plow could be kept in
the ground. If it ran out of the ground, this tough, leathery sod
would flop back into the furrow as swiftly as a row of bricks set up
on end, and the man and driver had to turn the long ribbon of tough
sod over by hand, if they could not make a ‘balk.’ In the flat, wet
prairie, it sometimes took from two to three years for the tough sod
to decompose sufficiently to produce a full crop. The plow had to be
kept in perfect order to turn this kind of prairie sod over, and the
lay had to have an edge as keen as a scythe to do good work. There
were usually two lays, or shears, fitted to each plow so that the
team might not be idle while the boy with the mustang went often
from five to eight miles to the nearest blacksmith to get a lay
sharpened. Sometimes the oxen would stray off among the barrens, or
follow the course of some stream for miles and hide among the
willows to take a vacation, and frequently they were not found until
after two or three days of weary search by the men and boys, while
the plow which out to be earning six or nine dollars a day was lying
idle on the great prairie.
PRAIRIE-BREAKING BRIGADES.
“There were men who equipped a brigade for breaking and carried on a
thriving business from about the first day in May to the end of
July. When the rush of immigration began in the spring of 1854,
there were not nearly enough
HISTORY
OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA 211
breaking teams in the country to supply the demand. In some cases
the newcomers would consent to have a portion of their prairie farms
broken up in April, and on this early breaking they would plant sod
corn. The process was simple. A man with an axe would follow the
line of every second or third furrow, strike the blade deep in the
ground, a boy or girl would follow and drop three or four kernels of
corn into the hole and bring one food down ‘right smart’ on the hole
in the sod, and the deed was done. No cultivation was required after
planting, and in the fall a half crop of corn was frequently
gathered without expense. Those who were not able to get breaking
done at the best time for subduing the sod, were often glad to have
some done in the latter part of July or the first half of August. So
for several years the breaking brigades were able to run their teams
for four months each year, and it was a profitable business.
SAD
PASSING OF THE OLD TIMES.
“With all the crudeness,
with all the exposure, with all the privations and hard times - for
there were hard times in those days - yet the passing of those
pioneer days with the quaint old prairie-breaking plow, the string
of oxen, the old prairie-schooner wagon, the elk and deer, with now
and then a buffalo, the prairie chickens, the dug-outs, sod houses
and log cabins, give to us pioneer settlers a ting of sadness
difficult to express in words; for with all these have gone a good
deal of that community and fellowship of neighborhood feeling, so
common and se heartily expressed from one to another in the
abounding hospitality and in the kindly exchange of hop in those
days. Then those living miles apart were friends and neighbors. Now
the family living on adjoining quarter sections are strangers.”
WILD
GAME FOR FOOD AND SPORT.
While the pioneer of Northwestern Iowa was waiting for his crops to
mature, he found wild game, both of the feathered and furred
variety, right at hand, waiting upon his skill to supply the family
larder, to furnish him cash and to yield him means of recreation and
outdoor sport. Two pioneers
212
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
of typical counties in
this section of the state draw pictures of the many varieties of
wild game which they found awaiting them in the ‘50s. One of them
writes: “Besides the larger game, such as elk and deer, wild
turkeys, prairie chickens and a species of curlews as big as
chickens with bills about eight inches long, abounded. These curlews
are now extinct. They had a peculiar whistle and were esteemed
highly by the pioneers on account of their delicate flavor. Of water
fowl, there were myriads. Fat coons were slaughtered and considered
very palatable by the settlers and, aside form their meat, the
settlers received a revenue from the sale of their skins. Brother
John was the trapper of the family and derived a considerable
revenue from the sale of pelts. On a knoll near the house on the
present Micham farm, I remember John baited a trap with a skunk for
bait and soon had the hides of eighteen foxes from this one place.
Mink was very plentiful and one year john sold $100 worth of mink
skins, all trapped within the present city limits” (City of
Cherokee).
Another picture: “Imagine a vast, unbroken tract of rolling prairie,
stretching away in all directions beyond the range of human vision,
with little groves of timber here and there along the water courses.
Such was Calhoun County when the first white men came to establish
their homes within its borders. All over the broad prairie were
swamps and ponds, where muskrat and water fowl abounded. The Indian
had departed and the only denizens of the country were the wild
animals. Big game was plentiful, especially the elk; a few lynx and
wildcats were to be found in the little forests; beaver, otter, mink
and some other fur-bearing animals inhabited some localities;
prairie wolves were numerous and their howling at night sometimes
caused little children to shudder with fear, as they cuddled
together in their beds, wishing that daylight would come. There was
also a small animal called a swift, because of its fleetness of
foot. In appearance it resembled a fox, but was smaller and not so
cunning. As the country settled up, this swift became such a pest
that the county authorities offered bounties upon swift scalps.”
During the very early days, the settlers suffered little an-
HISTORY
OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA 213
noyance from wolves, or
coyotes, as the small prairie wolves were called. The coyote emitted
a blood-curdling howl, but was not feared and did little damage to
live stock. It was only after the country became quite well settled
that the farmers, located especially along and near the Little Sioux
River, were annoyed by wolves; and they were the larger and fiercer
timber wolves. The wild game having almost disappeared, the wolves,
during the deep snows of winter, began to attack hogs and young
stock. To thin out the wolves, both as a pest and objects of
exciting sport, hunts were often organized. On an appointed day, the
hunters gathered for conference. Captains of two parties were
selected and the men placed so as to form a large circle. Hounds
were also brought into the hunt so as to rout out the prey and
assist in running them down. The circle was gradually narrowed until
the wolves were sighted, when the dogs were loosed and the wolves
dispatched, firearms being use d with caution, if at all. The side
getting the largest number of wolves was given a supper by the
losers. Besides which, there were the proceeds from the “wolf
scalps” to be considered.
Turkey shoots were different, as they tended to train the marksman
in the killing of game which was a valued source of food. The expert
marksman was not only a leading local character, but a valued
provider for the housewife and family. A turkey was placed in a box,
its head only protruding, and those engaging in the contest would
draw a line at a distance agreed upon, usually several hundred
yards, and pay so much per shot for the privilege of shooting at the
protruding head; and he who killed the turkey owned it. It took a
pretty good shot to send a rifle ball through the head of the bird
thus placed, as that portion of its anatomy was always in motion. As
to the actual profits of the sport, the man who furnished the
turkeys usually came out ahead, although a number of birds were sure
to be killed. The rivalry was as to which of the contestants could
kill the most birds and the winner became a large figure in the
community.
CLOTHING OF THE PIONEERS.
Most of the clothing was
home-made. Every farmer kept a flock of sheep. In earliest times the
carding, the spinning
214 HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
and the weaving were all done by the women. There was a spinning
wheel in every home. Often there were two - a large one for wool and
a smaller one for flax - while one loom might serve many families.
Linsey, or linsey-woolsey, was made of linen and woolen yarns, the
wool serving as the filling. Men rested betimes, but the women did
not. They wove the clothe and knitted the stockings. When they could
not make new cloth fast enough, they patched the old. Even then,
they could hardly keep their families out of nakedness. One woman of
those times said she had often sent her children into the woods on
the approach of strangers, because they did not have clothes enough
to make their bodies presentable. when the settlers first began to
buy cotton goods, the clothing came in plain colors and it was dyed
to suit individual tastes. Walnut bark and hulls, sumac, madder,
indigo and other native materials were used as dye-stuffs, and the
resulting colors were often hideous. Bu
t it was all in the pioneer lifetime.
THE
FOOD OF THE PRIMITIVE TIMES.
Before the grist and
flour mills came, grain was ground into flour between flat stones
and sometimes in hand coffee mills. Much corn was eaten after it had
been parched and rye similarly treated was a substitute for coffee.
Green corn was dried and when cooked with beans made succotash,
which was relished by the pioneers as much as by the aborigines. To
sweeten their foods, they filched honey from the bee trees and later
they made molasses from cane which was grown like corn. The staple
meat of the pioneers was pork, fresh and fresh-salted for winter
use, and pickled or smoked for summer use. They had plenty of wild
meat, too, but quail and prairie chicken surfeited them, while the
appetite for pork lasted. “Corn bread, with pork and rye coffee,”
says one of the early chroniclers, “formed the prairie bill of fare,
with an occasional dish of mustard greens.” Another writer of these
times varies this bill of faire by adding hominy or samp, venison,
dried pumpkin and wild game, and a few additional vegetables. But
Northwestern Iowa is a “big proposition,” and the menu of its
pioneers varied considera-
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA 215
bly with the section of
their residence. The common hominy so much relished by them all was
boiled corn from which the hulls had been removed with hot lye:
hence called lye hominy. What was called “true hominy” was made by
pounding the corn. For this purpose a mortar-like hole was made in
the top of a stump, the corn placed in it and beaten with a maul.
When it was sufficiently crushed, the bran was floated off in water
and the delicious grain boiled like rice. All those who write
knowingly of the early generation of pioneers in Northwestern Iowa,
in whatever section, are agreed that wheat bread, tea, coffee and
fruits were luxuries, reserved for “company” occasions.
RECREATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS.
The stern work of
wresting the farm from the sod and timber lands and, in the
meantime, of gathering food and clothing from nature’s creatures and
crude productions, was an almost constant round of bodily stress and
metal ingenuity. Primitive schools and churches were soon
established, where several families were gathered together and
recreation commenced in the lives of the hard-working pioneer. As
the settlements increased in number and density, debating societies
and spelling an singing schools were formed, and neither age nor
previous condition seemed to be a bar to their activities. The
spelling schools were usually held in a country schoolhouse and the
competition was as intense and serious as in the struggles for
leadership among the wolf hunters or turkey shooters. To this center
would flock the best spellers from other districts, the young people
frequently coming form long distances to attend the “spell-down.”
Sides were chosen by designated leaders, a word being given
alternately to each side. Each contestant remained standing until he
missed spelling a word and then sat down. When only one remained on
a side, the contest became of absorbing interest. At times it was so
difficult to spell down some of the participants from common English
words that the teacher would have to resort to foreign words, of
which a list was always on hand. Sometimes schools were competitors
and sometimes districts or localities.
Another less strenuous means of recreation was the sing-
216
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
ing school, conducted by
a competent teacher. A central schoolhouse usually was the meeting
place for the musically inclined, who also found means of making it
quite lively as a social institution. With the spread of the modern
system of common education, the singing school disappeared; but the
old-fashioned spelling school has been revived within comparatively
recent years as a public amusement, with the result that spelling,
as well as penmanship, is discovered to be almost a lost art or
accomplishment; and a poor speller is no longer considered
discounted among educated people. It was the gathering or dispersal
of the spellers or singers of the olden time that brightly and
joyfully stamped the occasions. Those who remember those old-time
amusements will recall with brightening eye and warming blood the
big bobsled, the jingling sleigh-bells, and the merry load of young
and old on their way to these events, or returning there-from. The
brisk winter air, vibrant with merry voices raised in song or shouts
of laughter, added zest to victory or achievement. Then, there was
often a spirited race between rival loads, an occasional upsetting
in a cool, glistening snow bank, and other incidents which gave zest
to these occasions while they were in the making and long afterward.
If one of the acquaintances thus formed ripened into an intimacy
which ended in a wedding, it was usually followed by a charivari,
and the discordant serenade was generally continued until the bride
and groom showed themselves. The affair ended all the more
pleasantly if each of the serenaders was treated to a piece of
wedding cake.
Another form of amusement in the advanced pioneer period was the
“husking bee.” On such occasions the corn to be husked would be
divided into two piles, as nearly equal in size as possible. Two of
the guests present would then divide the huskers into two equal
companies; each was allotted an equal pile of corn and the outward
contest was to see which company should first finish its pile. Both
sexes participated. As any young man who found a red ear was
permitted to kiss the girl or woman next to him, the aims of the
contest were mixed, and it became difficult to decide whether the
prime object of the “husking bee” was to reduce the pile or find a
red ear of corn. Frequently, the
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA 217
young men would play an underhanded game by passing the red ear from
one to another.
The women had their
quilting parties, when a number would take their needles and
thimbles and assemble at some house to join in making a quilt. Here
there was friendly rivalry to see who could run the straightest line
or make the neatest stitches.
Corn huskings and quiltings were frequently followed by a dance.
Nearly every frontier settlement had at least one many who could
play a violin. The neighbors would call him t the barn our house,
where the more staid amusements had been going on, and he would
“crape” for the Virginia reel, the minuet and the cotillion, calling
the figures in a voice which could be heard a mile or more away. The
old-time fiddler may not have been much of a musician , but he could
make his violin jubilant of “Turkey in the Straw,” “Money Musk,”
“The Bowery Gals” and “The Irish Washerwoman,” and it is more than
likely that the steppers enjoyed themselves as thoroughly as do the
modern men and women when their select orchestra wafts it melodious
strains over the polished dancing floor and seduces them to the
tango, the fox trot, the hesitation waltz or the Charleston.