NORTHWESTERN
IOWA
ITS HISTORY AND TRADITIONS
1804-1926
CHAPTER I.
THE RICH GIFTS OF NATURE.
NORTHWESTERN IOWA THE PRODUCT OF GLACIAL DRIFTS - ONLY A CORNER OF
THE STATE DRIFTLESS - THE ICE FIELDS FROM THE NORTH - TRACINGS OF
THEIR EDGES OR MORAINES - THE THREE GLACIERS WHICH INVADED
NORTHWESTERN IOWA - THE NEBRASKA DRIFT - EXPOSURES OF THE BED ROCKS
IN THE BIG SIOUX AND MISSOURI VALLEYS - THE SIOUX QUARTZITE - THE
CRETACEOUS ROCKS OF THE GREAT PLAINS - HOW THE NEBRASKAN ICE SHEET
GATHERED ITS TILL - THE WISCONSIN GLACIAL EPOCH - AREA COVERED BY
THE ICE FIELD - HOW IT MOLDED THE EASTERN SECTION OF NORTHWESTERN
IOWA - DIVERTS THE DRAINAGE OF THE LAND WESTWARD - THE GREAT
MISSISSIPPI-MISSOURI DIVIDE FIXED - THE KANSAN DRIFT COVERS A LARGE
PORTION OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA - THE RICH, BUT IRREGULAR LAYER OF
LOESS - THE GREAT AREA OF THE KANSAN DRIFT REGION - DEPOSITS OF
GRAVEL IN VALLEYS AND HILLS - THE RIVERS AND DRAINAGE OF
NORTHWESTERN IOWA - ITS LAKES - ALTITUDES OF VARIOUS LOCALITIES -
PITCH OF THE REGION WHERE ALL VALLEYS MERGE
INTO THE MISSOURI - WHY SOIL, RAINFALL, TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE MADE
NORTHWESTERN IOWA THE LAND OF PLENTY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.
23
Northwestern
Iowa, which is typical of the state, is not a land of lofty peaks
and tremendous gashes in the ground, but a gently swelling country
with a broad matronly bosom suggestive of protection and
nourishment. It is not a land of which its children are in awe, but
which they love, and its expanses of mellow soil, sometimes varied
along its water courses by rounded banks and hills, are a constant
assurance of thrift, contentment and prosperity. Iowa is not a land
in which to constantly admire the grandeurs of nature, or dream of
its beauties, but a country in which to work and thrive, to enjoy
the comforts and homely things of life, and to thank God for giving
its men, women and children those physical bounties which enable
them to prosper materially and to rise in a healthful way to high
planes of thought and action.
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
24
The story of how nature has worked to mold this pleasant and
bountiful land to the uses of an industrious and grateful race is a
fascinating romance for those who desire to read it. From the
foundations of the earth to the surface of the teeming soil, it was
destined to produce great crops of corn and grasses, and to breed
and maintain thousands upon thousands of droves and herds. The sun
and the rains even have cooperated to make Iowa and its people among
the select regions and children of the earth.
Northwestern Iowa is so purely and agricultural region that it is
not necessary to more than mention iron, lead or coal in connection
with her natural resources, although the coal fields of Dallas and
Polk counties overlap her extreme southeastern territory. Some of
the counties in the northwestern section of the state have valuable
beds of gravel and clay, but they go to emphasize the fact that the
economic wealth of the earth which covers that region lies
comparatively near the surface and far above the primary rocks.
THE ICE FIELDS OF THE NORTH.
The section of Iowa covered by the twenty counties of this history
owes its natural riches to several glacial drifts which came down
from the north and covered the state with the exception of a small
northeastern corner. A large portion of Canada was buried under a
mile of snow. As the surface melted little by little, the water
filtered down through the vast mass of snow and ice was formed. As
the thickness of the ice field could not be uniform, a movement
commenced in all directions which was determined by the inclination
of its bed. It pushed slowly southward into the United States,
bearing along great blocks of stone, some of which were frozen in
when it started on its dramatic journey and others gathered on its
way through what is now Minnesota, Wisconsin and New England. For
ages this enormous ice-sheet, or glacier, crept southward, grinding
loose rocks and polishing the more permanent formations which it
encountered, forming vast deposits of powdered material (
rock flour), wearing off the hilltops and scouring out the valleys.
Thus it passed over the present State of Iowa, except the small
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
25
northeastern section mentioned, traveled beyond its
southern boundary and only halted in Central Missouri.
TRACINGS OF THEIR EDGES OR MORAINES.
After a time, the climate grew warmer and the great ice-field
commenced to melt along its thinnest or southern edges, and
gradually all the area which is now Iowa was uncovered. As the
glacier dissolved, its accumulations settled. In some places hills
were made of the accumulations of boulders, broken rock, rock flour,
gravel and pebbles. In other sections the glacial drift was spread
more evenly. In some portions of the state, a layer more than a
hundred feet thick was left on top of the bedrock, while in other
parts only a few feet were deposited. Five times did these great
fields of ice push into Iowa, either killing the elephants,
mastodons and wild horses or driving them southward. The bones of
some of them which were thus overtaken have been found in the
gravels of Harrison and Monona counties and in other parts of the
state.
It was by
this slow and tedious process that the surface of Iowa was formed;
nothing that is of lasting value is ever made in haste. As the
glacier moved forward it left at the edge of the ice a ridge called
a “lateral moraine.” Where tow glaciers came together a larger ridge
called a “median moraine” was formed, and at the terminus of the
ice-sheet, where all the residue carried by the glacier was
deposited, the ridge thus formed is known as a “terminal moraine.”
In the western part of Emmet County the geologist can find abundant
evidence that the ancient glacial river left there a median moraine,
where it came in contact with another glacier that covered the
County of Dickinson.
The boulders
commonly called “nigger heads” that are to be seen in all parts of
the state were deposited by one of these glaciers. They are found in
large numbers all over Northwestern Iowa, particularly along the
Little Sioux River, to which the Sioux Indians gave the name of Ea-ne-ah-wad-e-pon,
or Stone River. In the southern part of Cherokee County is a red
granite boulder, 40 feet wide, 60 feet long and 20 feet high. It is
so conspicuous that it is called Pilot Rock.
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
26
THREE GLACIERS WHICH INVADED NORTHWESTERN IOWA.
Three ice-sheets invaded Northwestern Iowa, and almost concealed the
bedrock. The area covered by the first (Nebraskan) was completely
overridden by the second (Kansan), and the drift of the first is
exposed only in valleys that have been cut through the overlying
drift-sheet. The drift-sheets of the second and of the third
(Wisconsin) ice invasions appear at the surface outside the valleys.
The Kansan drift sheet is therefore the oldest which is to be seen
on the surface of Northwestern Iowa. The direction of the original
water courses as they existed in the glacial period of the Nebraskan
drift is largely a matter of speculation, although some geologists
claim that it was toward the southeast. Careful observations made by
the Iowa Geological Survey, however, indicate that the great
Wisconsin ice drift turned a great volume of the accumulated waters
toward the southwest and the valleys of the Missouri and the Sioux
rivers, thus substantially fixing the divide and water shed of
Western Iowa as it is today. (see “Geology of Northwestern Iowa,” by
J. Ernest Carman, Iowa Geological Survey, Vol. XXVI.)
THE NEBRASKAN DRIFT.
The bedrock exposures of Northwestern Iowa occur chiefly in the
slopes of the Big Sioux and the Missouri valleys along the west
boundary of the state. Along the west line of Plymouth and Northern
Woodbury counties, there are many small outcrops, along the west
line of Southern Sioux County there are a few, and in Lyon County
are two or three outcrops in the very northwest corner of the state.
Away from these valleys only two small exposure of bedrock have been
reported in Northwestern Iowa. Most of these outcrops are in steep
valley slopes, evidently gouged away by the glacial action of a
later (Wisconsin) drift.
Two widely
separated divisions of the geologic column are represented by the
bedrock outcrops in the Big Sioux Valley. The few exposures in
Northwestern Lyon County are of the Proterozoic, or quartz-like
rocks, while those of the counties tot he south are of Cretaceous
rocks. In the northwestern corner of Lyon County there are two
exposures of what is
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
27
known as the Sioux quartzite. One of these lies near the Minnesota
line, and the rock stands as a ridge twenty feet high and about a
quarter of a mile long. The other outcrop is in a small valley two
miles to the east. These two exposures in Iowa lie on the south
border of a large area of quartzite, which extends north to
Flandreau, South Dakota, a distance of forty-five miles, and has its
eastern limit at Redstone Ridge, Cottonwood County, Minnesota, and
its western limit at Mitchell, South Dakota. The rock is well
exposed at Rowena, South Dakota, just north of the outcrops on the
Iowa side, in and around Sioux Falls, and at many other places in
Eastern South Dakota and Southwestern Minnesota. The area within
which the Sioux quartzite directly underlies the drift in
Northwestern Iowa cannot be definitely outlined. The Sioux quartzite
and other ancient rocks of its geologic age form a basic foundation
for Northwestern Iowa. Their upper surface dips southward from the
outcrops at an altitude of more than 1,400 feet above sea level in
the northwest corner of Lyon County, and, as shown by well borings,
878 feet at Hull, Sioux County, and 215 feet at LeMars, Plymouth
County, and 135 feet below sea level, at Sioux City.
This basic stone of Northwestern Iowa, the Sioux quartzite, is a
very hard vitreous rock, varying in color from pink to red. It
consists of rounded quartz sand grains, so firmly cemented with
silica that the whole resembles a mass of quartz.
SIOUX QUARTZITE AND CRETACEOUS OUTCROPS.
Northwestern Iowa lies just within the eastern margin of the great
area of Cretaceous rocks of the Great Plains, and the chief bedrock
formations belong to the Upper Cretaceous system. Outcrops appear at
intervals in the slopes of the Big Sioux Valley south from the mouth
of Rock River, and in the bluffs of the Missouri Valley to a point
about six miles south of Sioux City. Away from the large valleys on
the west only two bedrock outcrops of the cretaceous nature have
been reported. One of these is two miles northeast of LeMars,
Plymouth County, and the other in the southeast corner of Sac
County. There is abundant evidence that the Cretaceous rocks
underlie the drift of practically the whole area,
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
28
for they are
the first bedrock penetrated by every deep well that is known within
the region.
All the
evidences of surface geology indicate that the Nebraskan ice-sheet
which was the first to invade the Mississippi basin, covered the
whole of Western Iowa and pushed southward into Missouri. It
gathered material from all the formations over which it passed, but
the most important deposits which it left in Northwestern Iowa
comprise the shales of the Cretaceous age, which covered the
Dakotas, Western Minnesota and Western Iowa. This source explains
the very compact, somewhat calcareous clay, almost free from grit
and pebbles, which characterizes the Nebraskan drift and which has
been one of the manufacturing and economic assets of this section of
the state. The thickness of the till formed by this drift era is not
definitely known, for no exposures go completely through it, and
well records are usually too indefinite to distinguish between the
Nebraskan and the Kansan tills. In several exposures along the
Little Sioux it rises fifty to seventy feet above the river, and the
record of a well on the upland in the Cherokee State Hospital
represents that boring to have penetrated 170 fee of Nebraskan drift
below seventy feet of Kansan. It is probable that two hundred feet
or more of the material which covers parts of Northwestern Iowa is
Nebraskan drift.
In the region under consideration, the Nebraskan till is easily
distinguished from the Kansan. Its surface color is gray, while that
of the Kansan is brownish yellow. The Nebraskan till is more compact
and tougher than the Kansan, and is the abomination of those who dig
wells and grade roads. It contains less grit and fewer pebbles and
boulders, and breaks into much smaller fragments.
THE WISCONSIN GLACIAL EPOCH.
The
Wisconsin glacial epoch followed the Nebraskan and was all important
in fixing the topography of Iowa. Thousands upon thousands of
geological and topographical examinations made by experts from
Canada to Iowa bear testimony to the grand voyage taken by the
so-called Wisconsin ice-field. During that epoch a great lobe of
ice, the body of which occupied Central Canada, filled the basin of
the Red
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
29
River of the
North, and, advancing southward, divided into two parts in what is
now South Dakota. The Dakota lobe continued down the James River and
reached the southeast corner of the state. The Minnesota-Des Moines
lobe passed southeastward down the Minnesota River valley to its
bend in South-central Minnesota; then pushed southward over the
divide into the Des Moines River valley and across North-central
Iowa to Des Moines. The Northwestern Iowa considered in this history
was traversed by the Wisconsin glacier over the territory described
by counties of the present, as follows: The northern corner of
Osceola County, three-quarters of Northern and Eastern Dickinson,
Emmet and Palo Alto counties entire, a third of Eastern Clay County
and two-thirds of Eastern Buena Vista, a third of Eastern Sac County
and half of Eastern Carroll, and all of Pocahontas, Calhoun and
Greene counties. The Wisconsin drift region thus defined is
generally a level, or gently undulating plain, with terminal
moraines more or less well developed on its eastern and western
margins. These are especially well marked around the lakes of
Dickinson County, in Eastern Clay County and in Western Palo Alto
and Emmet counties. The numerous lakes in this region, such as
Okoboji, Diamond and Spirit, with distinct tracings of a belt of
terminal moraines therein, have led geologists to conclude that they
were formed by a minor lobe of moving ice. As the district around
West Okoboji Lake presents the most pronounced evidences of morainic
topography in the state, this ice-field is known to Iowa geologists
as the Okoboji Lobe.
Most of the topographical features of the Wisconsin drift consist of
mound-like hills and broad swales interspersed with numerous
un-drained depressions. The drainage of the region is youthful and
likes and marshes are numerous. Most of the broad swales have
streams, but these streams did not make the valleys which they
occupy. They made only the narrow channels in which they flow. Some
of the larger streams have cut narrow, steep-sided valleys in the
Wisconsin drift-plain, but even these streams have formed the
topography of only a small part of the area they drain. The chief
feature of the Wisconsin plain, however, consists of its large
undulations, depressions and elevations of the ground
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
30
moraine
type. The hills are large, some of them covering a quarter-section
and their slopes are gentle. East of the center line of Buena Vista
County the region passes into a slightly rolling to a flat glacial
plain, and this continues eastward across Western Pocahontas County.
Shallow depressions occupied by marshes or ponds once dotted this
plain, but most of them have been drained by ditching or tilling and
now form the richest of agricultural land.
The
Wisconsin drift is a light yellowish gray clay, loose and
sufficiently sandy to crumble when crushed in the hand. It contains
many pebbles and boulders, which in the morainic areas make a
considerable part of the whole. Boulders lie on the surface at many
places and pebbles and gritty material appear in the soil. The till
is calcareous, even to the surface, and at many places concretions
of calcium carbonate are present for a few feet below the surface.
AREA COVERED BY THE ICE FIELD.
As a result
of the Wisconsin glaciations the earlier drainage to the Mississippi
was diverted westward over the divide at two places, and both
diversions became permanent at the expense of the Mississippi
drainage. As a result of the diversion to the Boyer Valley southwest
of Wall Lake, the divide from Southern Sac County to Southern Buena
Vista County was shifted five to seven miles to the east, and the
drainage basin of the Boyer was increased by about 150 square miles.
The diversion to the little Sioux Valley was much greater, for the
divide was shifted thirty to thirty-five miles to the east and the
drainage basin of the Little Sioux was increased by almost 2,000
square miles. Within the area of Northwestern Iowa the divide is the
same as during pre-Wisconsin times for only seven to eight miles to
the north and south of Alta, in Southwestern Buena Vista County.
THE GREAT MISSISSIPPI-MISSOURI DIVIDE FIXED.
The great
divide which sheds the waters of the Mississippi Valley toward the
southeast and those of the Missouri toward the southwest, and which
was definitely fixed by the prehistoric operations of the Wisconsin
ice-sheet, has been traced in detail throughout Northwestern Iowa.
Three-fourths of
HISTORY OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
31
the state is
drained southeastwardly by long parallel streams to the Mississippi
River. The western quarter of Iowa drains southwest-by-south through
shorter streams to the Missouri River. The parallelism of the major
streams both to the southeast and the southwest is a notable feature
of the drainage of Iowa. The divide between these two great drainage
basins has a northwest-southeast direction through Southwestern
Iowa, but in Western Carroll County it takes a more northerly course
which is followed tot he Minnesota State line. From Western Carroll
County, the divide intersects the south boundary of Sac County,
crosses the east end of Wall Lake outlet and extends northward
through Central Sac County, forming the divide between Indian Creek
and Boyer River. It then passes westward along the south side of the
Storm Lake basin and northward through the town of Alta, Buena Vista
County. Four miles north of Alta it doubles back around the head of
the small creek which enters the northwest corner of Storm Lake and
extends southeast almost to that lake, rounding the head of Brooke
Creek, which flows north to the Little Sioux. North of the head of
Brooke Creek the divide is in the Wisconsin drift area and its
course to the northward is less definite. It extends north and east
through Central and Northeastern Buena Vista County between the
headwaters of Raccoon River on the southeast and the tributaries of
the Little Sioux on the northwest. It crosses the southeast corner
of Clay County, follows north along the Ruthven moraine two to four
miles east of the west line of Palo Alto and Emmet counties, crosses
the northeast corner of Dickinson County and enters Minnesota about
five miles west of the Des Moines River.
The divide continues northward in Southeastern Jackson County,
Minnesota, for twelve miles and then bends westward around the
headwaters of the Little Sioux, offsetting twenty-four miles to the
west and in this distance swinging six mile to the south. Here,
northwest of Worthington, Nobles County, Minnesota, the divide
changes its direction to north-of-northwest and holds this course
for more than a hundred miles along the crest of the Choteau des
Prairies.
From the south line of Sac County to Storm Lake the divide is just
west of the boundary of the Wisconsin drift-
HISTORY OF
NORTHWESTERN IOWA
32
region.
North of Storm Lake the divide lies within that region, but as far
as Ruthven it is only five to ten miles east of the boundary. The
boundary then angles westward to such an extent that on the State
line the divide is thirty-six miles within the Wisconsin drift area,
but the westward course of the divide across the headwaters of the
Little Sioux brings it back to with a few miles of the Wisconsin
drift boundary northwest of Worthington, in which position it
continues on to the northwest along the crest of the Choteau de
Prairies.
It is therefore evident that, substantially, the
Mississippi-Missouri divide corresponds with the western boundary of
the Wisconsin drift region, and that the most marked variation
occurs in Northwestern Iowa. There, it is believed, a large mass of
the prehistoric waters were turned aside by the drift of that era
and diverted toward the southwest. This theory is advanced thus in
the last report of the State Geological Survey on Northwestern Iowa
(1917): “The Mississippi-Missouri divide northwest of Worthington,
Minnesota, agrees in direction with the part south of Storm Lake,
Iowa. Between Worthington and Storm Lake a great reentrant carries
the divide to the east about the headwaters of the Little Sioux
River. But for this irregularity, the course of the divide would
continue northward from Alta, through Western Clay or East-central
O`Brien and Central Osceola counties; it would cross the State line
just east of Bigelow, Minnesota and would join the present divide
where it changes its direction northwest of Worthington. This raises
the question, may not this have been the real watershed of the
State? In other words, may not the region now drained by the Little
Sioux above Northeastern Cherokee County formerly have drained
southeastwardly to the Mississippi River?”
THE KANSAN DRIFT.
The
Wisconsin drift undoubtedly had most to do with fixing the present
water-shed and topography of Northwestern Iowa. West of its borders
is another distinct geological area known as the Kansan Drift
Region. It covers more than twice the territory allotted to the
Wisconsin drift in Northwestern Iowa and includes all of Lyon,
Sioux, O`Brien,
HISTORY OF
NORTHWESTERN IOWA
33
Plymouth,
Cherokee, Woodbury, Ida, Monona and Crawford counties, and parts of
Osceola, Clay, Buena Vista, Sac and Carroll. To the south is
broadens out into the great Kansan drift region of Southern Iowa and
Northern Missouri. Northward it extends into Southwestern Minnesota
and Eastern South Dakota. From the northwest corner of Lyon County,
Iowa, southward to Canton, South Dakota, the Big Sioux Valley forms
the boundary of the Kansan drift region; south of Canton, the Kansan
plain extends into Southeastern South Dakota and Northeastern
Nebraska.
RICH LAYER
OF LOESS.
Preceding
the Kansan epoch, Northwestern Iowa had been glaciated by the
Nebraskan ice-sheet, which deposited a thick layer of till. As the
Kansan ice-sheet advanced, it gathered great quantities of the
underlying deposits and mixed them with such new materials as it
brought down from the north. Gray limestone is the dominant rock
material among the pebbles of the Kansan till. The vari-colored
clays are also characteristic of this drift material. The yellow
clay has been oxidized; the blue, un-oxidized. A few fossils have
been found in the valley gravels of Plymouth County, but are more
plentiful farther south. The gravels of the Kansan till which have
much economic value, appear in large pockets or layers; some are
found in broad valleys and other deposits are exposed in mounds or
hills, swelling above the surface. The gravel hills are found
chiefly in Lyon, Cherokee and Sac counties, and are stratified, the
theory being that they were formed during the retreat of
the Kansan ice-sheet. They are composed both of gravel and coarse
sand. Most of the sand is of pure quartz. The valley gravels are
found along the large rivers and medium sized streams and even along
the small creeks nearly to their heads on the uplands. They also
fill in certain broad areas on the headwaters of some of the
streams. Their distribution is evidently independent of the size of
the valley.
Several of the larger rivers head northeastward within or along the
Wisconsin drift-margin, and therefore may have carried drainage from
the Wisconsin ice. This is true of the Big Sioux, Rock, Little Sioux
and Boyer rivers. Lyon, Osce-
HISTORY OF
NORTHWESTERN IOWA
34
ola, O`Brien,
Cherokee and Woodbury counties have especially rich deposits of the
valley gravels. They rest on the Kansan till, except where it has
been entirely removed, as in the Little Sioux Valley and the lower
courses of some of its tributaries, in which case they lie on the
Nebraskan till.
The Kansan drift of Northwestern Iowa is covered with a mantle of
fine-grained yellow clay known as loess. In the southwestern part of
the area the loess has a considerable thickness, but it thins to the
northeast until it is almost negligible. In the regions where the
loess is thick, it is commonly calcareous to the surface and in many
exposures contains calcareous concretions and snail shells. The
region within which a well developed loess covering exists includes
Woodbury County and most of Ida, the southwest part of Sac County,
and a belt along the east side of the Big Sioux Valley narrowing
northward through Western Plymouth, Sioux and Lyons counties. Within
this area, many road cuts on the slopes or on the crests of the
hills expose ten to twenty feet of loess. A particularly rugged belt
five to ten miles wide just east of the Missouri River valley in
Woodbury and Plymouth counties is from thirty to fifty feet in
thickness. This distinct belt continues southward along the Missouri
River and across Western Iowa, and is particularly noticeable in the
region north of Turin, in Central Monona County.
GREAT AREA
OF THE KANSAN DRIFT REGION.
The Kansan
drift region, or fully two-thirds of Northwestern Iowa, presents
considerable diversity of topography. In its northeastern part in
Osceola, Dickinson, O'Brien and Clay counties, the surface is
slightly rolling. The largest of the level areas in this region is
in western Clay County, between willow Creek and Ocheyedan River. In
that area, the surface is so level that the natural drainage is
poor, but there is sufficient slope for successful tillage and, with
artificial drainage, it has become a productive farm region. To the
west and southwest of these slightly rolling areas, the relief and
ruggedness of the country are more pronounced. The distinctly
rolling topography includes most of Lyon and Sioux counties, Eastern
Plymouth, Cherokee and Western Buena Vista and Sac counties. The
slopes of this area are
HISTORY OF
NORTHWESTERN IOWA
35
definite,
the region is therefore well drained and it includes the best farm
land of Northwestern Iowa. Southwest of this rolling area, the
country passes into what may be called rough or rugged. It includes
a belt which widens southward along the Big Sioux in Lyon, Sioux and
Plymouth counties, and embraces all of Woodbury, most of Ida and the
southwest corner of Sac County. This topography is extended into
Southern Iowa. An area just east of the Missouri River valley in
Woodbury and Plymouth counties presents bold and rugged
characteristics. There are steep slopes, almost bare of vegetation,
pointed hills and narrow ridges.
DEPOSITS
OF GRAVEL IN VALLEYS AND HILLS.
In contrast
to this area are several level deposits of gravel and the dissection
of valleys. In O'Brien and Osceola counties, are small areas of low
and level land between streams which have been formed by the filling
in of gravel. In the Little Sioux valley of Northeastern Cherokee
and Southeastern O'Brien counties, on the other hand, are notable
examples of the cutting processes. In this region there are places
where the stream has cut below the upland from 175 to 200 feet.
Smaller tributaries have dissected the area to a less depth, but the
slopes of the minor streams are steep; the divides are level and
project as spurs out to the very edge of the Little Sioux valley.
RIVERS AND
DRAINAGE OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA
Thus Mother
Nature determined the courses of the rivers and formed the basins of
the lakes of Northwestern Iowa. She also laid the bed of rocks over
which the prehistoric glaciers ground the material beneath and
within the icy masses, carrying along other debris on their way,
and, with the coming of melting weather in the geological ages,
leaving vast deposits on the earth of latent productiveness. The
drainage basin of the Missouri is by far the most important
watershed of Northwestern Iowa. The Big Sioux comes down from
Minnesota and joins the parent stream in Northwestern Woodbury
County, the Missouri River proper coming from South Dakota, bounding
the remainder of Woodbury and all
HISTORY OF
NORTHWESTERN IOWA
36
of Monona
County, and constituting the southern portion and the balance of the
western boundary of Northwestern Iowa. There are four main
tributaries which flow into the Big Sioux and the Missouri in a
southwesterly direction and the courses of which lie mainly within
the territory under consideration. They are the Rock River, which
rises a short distance over the Minnesota line and flows into the
Big Sioux in the western part of Sioux County; the Floyd River,
which heads in Northwestern O'Brien County and joins the Missouri in
Southwestern Woodbury County; the Little Sioux, the largest
tributary of the Missouri system in Iowa, which has its sources in
the marshes of Jackson County, Minnesota, and empties into the
Missouri a short distance below Monona County’s southern line, and
the Boyer River, the headwaters of which are near the northern
limits of Sac County, and in its course to the Missouri it
diagonally traverses Crawford and Harrison counties and the
northwest corner of Harrison.
The streams which flow southeastward to the Mississippi have their
upper courses almost parallel with the divide, and draw away from it
very gradually, while those which flow southwestward toward the
Missouri have their headwaters almost normal to the divide. As a
result of this difference almost the whole of the east side of the
Mississippi-Missouri divide is drained by the tributaries of the Des
Moines River, the longest and the largest of the southeastern
flowing streams, while nearly every important stream of Southwestern
Minnesota and Northwestern Iowa, except the Floyd, has its
headwaters on the west slope of the divide. The glacial sources of
the Des Moines were in Southern Minnesota as were those of the Big
Sioux and, as stated, were divided in Northwestern Iowa. The upper
valleys of the Des Moines River formed by it east and west forks
traverse the extreme northeastern corner of Northwestern Iowa, while
the Raccoon River, its only important western tributary,
rises in Northern Buena Vista County and flows in a generally
southeastern direction through that county, and Sac, cuts across
corners of Calhoun and Carroll, and continues through Greene and
Dallas and Southwestern Polk to the parent stream.
HISTORY OF
NORTHWESTERN IOWA
37
THE LAKES
The bodies
of water in Iowa which may be designated as lakes are all located in
the northern part and within the area covered by this history.
Dickinson, Emmet and Palo Alto are especially favored in this
regard, and it has already developed in the telling of this
geological story what part was played glacial action and deposits in
their formation.
Dickinson County has the largest lake in Iowa. It was known to the
Indians as Min-ne-wau-kon, or Spirit Water, and was supposed to be
the home of evil spirits. In English it is known as Spirit Lake and
has been associated for nearly seventy years with the terrible
massacre perpetrated by the Sioux in its vicinity. Spirit Lake is
about four miles in length and has an area of some ten squares
miles. For the most part its shores near the water line form a
beautiful sandy beach, with a fringe of trees beyond. Immediately
west of Spirit Lake are three smaller bodies of water which are
connected and drain into it, and there are numerous other ponds
which are called lakes. But the most picturesque of the Dickinson
County lakes are East and West Okoboji lakes, south of Spirit Lake.
Each is about six miles long and the shores, instead of being
beautiful, gentle and sandy, are piled high with boulders of
limestone and of granite, porphyry and quartzite, and ramparts of
clay and drift. The eastern shores are especially rugged, probably
because the prevailing winds are westerly and the waves have been
constantly driven to that side of the lakes.
In Emmet County are numerous lakes, several of which deserve mention
in these general paragraphs. Turtle, which is the largest, extends
into Minnesota and Iowa Lake is on the line. Swan Lake is the
largest lying wholly within Emmet County. It is near the center of
the county and from its western end a fine view of the West Des
Moines River and the country beyond may be obtained. There is also a
Swan Lake in Dickinson County and another in Pocahontas County, both
considerably smaller than the one in Emmet. Pelican, Lost Island and
Medium lakes, in Palo Alto County, as well as Trumbull in Clay
County and Wall Lake in Sac County, also nestle in this divide
country between the West
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Fork of the
Des Moines River and the valley of the Little Sioux. The only other
body of water of considerable size outside this area is Clear Lake
in the Des Moines watershed of Cerro Gordo County.
ALTITUDES
OF VARIOUS LOCALITIES
At various
times and by various surveyors the altitudes of numerous localities
in Northwestern Iowa have been taken. On account of the variations
in local and sectional topography, the data proves little even in
demonstrating the general declination of the region of that section
of the State from northeast to southwest toward the Missouri Valley.
But we know that to be the fact, since the drainage is in that
direction. It is conceded, however, that Dickinson, as a whole,
occupies the most elevated position of any county in the State. It
is recorded that Jean Nicollet, the explorer, in 1839 made an
observation on the south shore of Spirit Lake and found the altitude
to be 1,310 feet above the Gulf of Mexico. Modern surveyors have
computed it to be more than a hundred feet higher.
Going from north to south, or toward the valleys of the Big Sioux
and Missouri, the altitudes of various localities in Northwestern
Iowa have been announced as follows: Spirit Lake, Dickinson County,
1,413 above sea level; Sibley, Osceola County, 1,502; Estherville,
Emmet County, 1,298; Rock Rapids, Lyon county, 1,345; Orange City,
Sioux County, 1,421; Primghar, O'Brien County, 1,450; Spencer, Clay
County, 1,210; Emmetsburg, Palo Alto County, 1,237; Pocahontas,
Pocahontas County, 1,225; Storm Lake, Buena Vista County, 1,420;
Cherokee, Cherokee County, 1,338; LeMars, Plymouth County, 1,224;
Ida Grove, Ida County, 1,225; Sioux City, Woodbury County, 1,158; Sac
City, Sac County, 1,196; Rockwell City, Calhoun county, 1,225;
Jefferson, Greene County, 1,110; Carroll, Carroll county, 1,251;
Denison, Crawford County, 1,230.
The pitch of the region where the Big Sioux and its tributaries
merge into the valley of the Missouri is very slight, only a few
feet to the mile. As they have been determined by geologists and
surveyors the following are the facts, more in detail: On the north
line of Plymouth County, at the cross-
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ing of the West Fork of the Floyd River, the ground has an elevation
of 1,284 feet, while directly west, about eighteen miles, the Valley
of the Big Sioux is 1,150 feet, showing a descent westward of nearly
seven and a half feet per mile. The Floyd descends southerly to
Sioux City 171 feet, or about six feet per mile, and the Big Sioux
falls thirty-seven feet to the Missouri near the mouth of the Floyd.
The elevation of the ground where the valley of the Little Sioux
merges in the Missouri bottom is 1,086 feet, making the descent from
the north line of Plymouth County, where the West Fork of the Floyd
enters, to the south line of Woodbury where the Little Sioux passes
out, 198 feet, or a little more than four feet per mile. Even from a
superficial examination of these altitudes of Northwestern Iowa from
the Minnesota line to the Missouri Valley, it is evident that the
rivers and streams of this wonderfully fertile region are still
quite evenly distributing rich and productive alluvia over its
plains.
SOIL,
RAINFALL AND TOPOGRAPHY.
To generalize: The most recent and noticeable deposits form the
bottom lands of the Missouri, which, along the western boundary of
Iowa, constitute a belt of rich loamy soil 150 miles long and from
five to twenty wide. Farther north, the Little Sioux contributes its
share to the basic wealth of Northwestern Iowa. But by far the
greatest source of agricultural opulence enjoyed by the farmers and
live stock men of the country is found in the drift soils, the
origin and composition of which have already been described.
Generally speaking they are of a fine loamy mixture of clay and
sand, with little gravel, and so rich as to need little fertilizing.
The blanket of loess, covering the greater portion of Northwestern
Iowa and varying in thickness, is a distinct type of soil; a fine
yellowish silt, highly charged with carbonate of lime. The
outstanding characteristics of the soil of this section of the State
are its depth and its porous nature, by which the agriculturists
withstand so effectually the extremes of wet and dry weather. The
water does not remain long on the surface, but forms reservoirs at a
convenient depth upon which to draw during a prolonged spell of dry
weather.
As remarked by one who resided in one of the interior
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counties of Northwestern Iowa, which was afterward subjected to
drainage: “The surface soil is here very fine, very black and very
rich; the subsoil either a fine calcareous clay overlying the
gravel, or a more porous mixture of lime, gravel and sand. At any
rate the sub-soils of Buena Vista County seem to yield up to the
growing crops in unusual measure the moisture needed at a time when
other sub-soils seem to fail entirely. It is a problem what effect
the wholesale tile-drainage of Northwest Iowa is likely to have upon
the region and the State at large in the matter of local
precipitation. In the days when vast areas were yet un-drained, but
lay as pool and marsh and lake over hundreds of square miles,
Northwestern Iowa acted as a water storage reservoir for the
remainder of the State. All summer long the waters sucked up by the
hot sun were passed on in clouds to descend as showers all up and
down the eastern counties. But with the progress of our agriculture
these surface waters have almost entirely disappeared, hurried away
by our finer systems of drainage to the rivers and to the sea, and
the immediate source of local showers for Iowa has disappeared as
well.”
Fortunately the great corn and grass crops, the harvests of wheat
and oats and the raising of swine, horses, cattle and other
livestock, do not depend on local conditions, although they do have
their circumscribed effect. Iowa is near enough to the Gulf of
Mexico to have plenty of rain brought to it by the south and
southwest winds, and whether it comes in great currents of air or is
generated in local areas, its porous soil holds it fir the
nourishment of the grains and the grasses, which draw also from the
earth the requisite elements for their growth; and this truth will
be developed more in detail when the chapter is reached which deals
with the growth of agriculture and its allied industries.
It is important to know, in this connection, how Nature formed a
most wonderful conspiracy to make Iowa, and particularly
Northwestern Iowa, the greatest corn-producing country in the world.
Corn requires a rich loam soil - one which is easily cultivated and
has plenty of plant food - and an abundance of rain during the
growing season. It needs a long, warm summer, with warm nights and
at least five months free from frost. It grows best where there is
some
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frost just after ripening time. All these conditions of soil,
rainfall and temperature are vouchsafed. Although the average
rainfall of the State is about thirty-one and a half inches, most of
it comes at the right time to stimulate the growing corn: in May,
June and July. The rainfall is least during the ripening months.
The long, hot summer days, with bright sunshine and warm nights,
give ideal conditions for raising corn, and the Iowa Weather and
Crop Service which has long kept accurate records gives many facts
as to why they are so. Some of these have already been produced. It
is further learned that the Iowa year has an average of 170 days
which are free from frost. There are great ranges of temperature;
but, as a rule, they are not unseasonable. Summer is summer and
winter is winter in the Hawkeye State. Since the weather records
have been kept, the lowest temperature noted was in 1912, when the
thermometer fell to forty-seven degrees below zero. The highest
temperature recorded was in 1901, when the mercury jumped to one
hundred and thirteen degrees above. Both sun and wind do their best
to make Iowa a lively State.
As it was foreordained that corn should be crowned king in Iowa, and
that its northwestern section should have a large part in the
coronation, it followed that the lowly, homely and industrious hog
should crunch and root itself to supremacy. Corn is the ideal food
for swine, as it both fattens and strengthens them. Iowa has
overtaken Illinois in the production of corn, and raises nearly
twice as many swine as its eastern competitor. A large portion of
Iowa’s corn crop goes to fatten the hogs. The State raises a seventh
of all the swine produced in the United States.
Cattle and horses follow swine as wealth producers, and the plains
of Northwestern Iowa, with other sections of the State, furnish an
abundance of nourishing grasses, stimulated by the lime and other
ingredients of the soil. this all makes for well-nourished and hardy
animals, abundantly fed and watered. It must also be remembered that
the value of such crops as grasses, alfalfa and wild and tame hay,
equals nearly one-half that of the corn crop.
Although Iowa is preeminently a prairie and an agricul-
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tural State,
considerable timber is still standing in the bottomlands of the
Missouri, Big Sioux, Little Sioux and other large streams.
Cottonwood, willow, honey locust, ash and elm, are chiefly found in
such areas, while the less heavily wooded uplands show three or four
varieties of oaks and butternut, ironwood and hackberry. In the
scattered groves, oak, elm, cottonwood, hickory and maple
predominate, while along some of the river bluffs is occasionally to
be seen a scant growth of pine and cedar. Basswood, box elder, black
walnut, red and black haw, wild cherry and wild plum also prove that
Northwestern Iowa is not a treeless plain. Many tracts of timber
have been cleared away by the early settlers, and many have been
reforested and now present second and third growths; but timber is
less than ever a source of wealth to any section of the State. As
long as it wonderful soil, its drainage, its rains and its sunshine
combine to bring its sons and daughters comfort, prosperity and happiness, Iowa will base her life on what nature has
provided in such generous measure.
PHOTO:
PILOT ROCK, CHEROKEE COUNTY
Largest Rock in Western Iowa