IOWA
JOURNAL OF HISTORY AND POLITICS
Volume 12, No. 3 July, 1914
THE QUAKERS OF IOWA IN 1858
Two English Friends, Benjamin Seebohm and Robert
Lindsey, made a visit among the Quaker communities in Iowa during the early
months of the year 1850, as a part of a five-years' tour in North America.
Scarcely had they returned to their native land, however, when Lindsey again
felt what he believed to be a new call to "service in a fardistant
land"; and he recorded his conviction that "the time draws on apace
when resignation on my part must be yielded to the Divine requiring, if peace be
my portion''.
Permission in the
form of a "release for service" was granted by the Brighouse Monthly
Meeting, and in July, 1852, Robert Lindsey, accompanied by Frederic Mackie, set
sail for Australia. Before he returned to England after an absence of a year and
a half he had traveled over the greater part of that continent, as well as in
Tasmania, New Zealand, and the southern part of Africa.
After about
eighteen months spent at home, in the summer of 1857 Lindsey once more set out
on a religious journey which extended around the world. This time he was
accompanied by his wife, Sarah, who bravely shared with him all of the hardships
of the journey, and a portion of whose journal is printed below. Landing at
Boston about the last of August, 1857,4 by the following April the two travelers
were visiting among the scattered Quaker settlements in Kansas, then the scene
of crime and bloodshed. From this point the story of their wanderings can best
be told in the words of the journal written from day to day by Sarah Lindsey.
This journal should
be read in connection with the portion of the diary of Robert Lindsey (1850)
which was printed in THE IOWA JOURNAL OF HISTORY AND POLITICS for April, 1914,
pp. 262-286. A comparison of these two journals reveals the growth and spread of
Quaker communities in Iowa during the eight years from 1850 to 1858. Moreover,
in the journal printed below there will be found many interesting glimpses of
the difficulties and hardships of travel in the trans-Mississippi region during
the late fifties and of social and economic conditions in different parts of the
State of Iowa. The journal has been printed verbatim except that the method of
indicating the dates of the daily entries has been changed for the sake of
securing uniformity.
LOUIS T. JONES
THE STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF IOWA
IOWA CITY IOWA
THE JOURNAL OF SARAH LINDSEY
16th, 4 mo,
1858.—Kansas.
Jonathan Wheeler's house was scantily furnished; round the sides of the house
several trunks of trees enclosed loose hay, which with cross timber, without bed
stocks, formed several sleeping places for the night. A large box was used as a
table, two or three chairs, & smaller boxes served for seats; a few open
shelves held the crockery ware, and a small cupboard contained their stock of
books. But in the midst of this humble abode contentment seemed to dwell, and a
smile played upon many of the happy faces around us. This family have taken up
160 acres of land & seem likely to do well. We had a meeting with them to
satisfaction: many of us would think their lot a hard one, but we had cause to
believe that the Son of Peace had taken up His abode in some of their hearts.
Dined with our young friends A. Henshaw &
wife, then had a cold windy ride to Duck Creek where we lodged. Next morning the
ground was covered with snow, and we had a stormy drive over the open prairie,
15 miles of our route being through the Sac & Fox Indian reservation where
we did not see a single house, & only crossed two creeks. Dined at
Burlingham, and lodged at Henry Hyatt's, at Twin Mounds, the place taking its
name from two oblong natural elevations which are seen from a distance &
appear as if they had been cast in a mold. H. Hyatt was once a member of our
society. Here we met with a person named William Denton who is a noted infidel,
and the individual who attended the meeting which my R L had at Bloomington. He
removed to this country from Darlington about nine years ago; he was acquainted
with the Pease's family. We could agree with a remark he made: that this country
suited persons holding views similar to his own better than England.
On leaving the house H. Hyatt refused to take money for
our accommodations. Rode to Lawrence next morning where we parted from our truly
kind friend Benajah Hyatt, who has been our driver & faithful companion for
nearly 3 weeks, during which time he has given us much information upon subjects
relating to the recent disturbances in Kansas, some of which were of a most
tragical nature, being cold blooded murders & atrocities, such as are seldom
heard of in this age of the world amongst civilized nations. We were intending
to proceed to the Friends Mission by public stage but all the seats were
engaged. A note had been sent to the hotel for my R L from L. W. Wood, an entire
stranger to us, but a descendant of friends, who having heard of our arrival
invited us to his house to remain either a day, or a month, as suited our
convenience; so we spent the afternoon & lodged there, and his wife, a well
educated & sensible woman, treated us kindly. L. N. Wood is a lawyer by
profession & seems to be in easy circumstances. The family are living in a
temporary house, but a little snug bed was prepared for us in the loft, the
ascent of which was by irregular boards some of which bent as we trod upon them.
Took leave of our kind friends the following morning and went to the Mission, a
distance of 35 miles by a public stage. For nearly two weeks there has been a
cloudy atmosphere but now the sun shines in the clear blue sky.
Within the last week we have seen abundance of wild
plum & gooseberry trees in full blossom. The prairie chickens are like a
little speckled pullet, and very numerous; if we come near they take wing &
fly a short distance. The larks build their nests upon the ground, & sing a
short sweet plaintive note; but in other respects are unlike our English birds
bearing that name. Spent fifth day with our friends at the Mission: the mid-week
meeting was an interesting season wherein my dear Husband had some service. A
friend named James Stanley who had just arrived in the State along with wife
& 3 children called in the evening. J. S. is a joiner by trade and has come
here with the prospects of stationing himself among one of the Indian tribes to
instruct them in manual labor & to endeavour to raise their condition in
other respects. The poor Indians have been driven from one place to another,
until some of the Shawnese & other civilized tribes are intending to become
citizens of the United States. Some of the natives have married white persons.
In riding along we do not see many Indians & but seldom pass their
habitations. They are generally shy & retiring; we saw two squaws in
Lawrence, one of whom was clad in a scarlet, & the other in a yellow dress,
& blankets were thrown over their shoulders like a cloak.
This morning—the
16th, 4 mo., we arose very early and taking a final leave of our friends at the
Mission, were accompanied by C. Harvey who drove us to Kansas City in a waggon.
The road was thronged with emigrants who were just entering the State: some in
covered wagons had been camping for the night, and having kindled a fire were
preparing breakfast. Others were walking with their bags & bundles. On
approaching the river we had the mortification to see the steam boat by which we
expected to proceed, start from the shore & sail without us; not knowing
when another of that class might be passing, we went to an Inn where I spent
some hours in posting up my journal, but being on the tiptoe of expectation we
had an uncomfortable day. We retired to rest and got a few hours sleep; and at
an early hour the following morning we heard the steam whistle, & before 6
a. m. were on board the "Meteor". Much rain fell during the night
accompanied by thunder & lightning. Our boat is rather small but a fast
sailer; we have not many fellow passengers. On first day morning we held our
meeting in our cabin, rather a dull heavy season to myself: wherein I felt my
own weakness & inability to help myself. It is not usual for the boats on
the Missouri to run thro' the dark nights, but our Captain being desirous of
reaching Jefferson City, ran until morning 8 a. m. when we struck upon a sand
bank, and notwithstanding all the skill & ingenuity which this accident
called forth we were not afloat until daylight next morning. Reached Jefferson
City about 7 a. m. just in time to take the train to St. Louis where we arrived
in 6 hours.
20th, 4 mo.—St.
Louis. State of Missouri. On arriving here yesterday we were gratified in
finding two sets of letters from home with dates to the 18th of last month. The
weather is now much warmer, & spring flowers deck the fields & hedges:
and the forest trees are putting on their green robes.
21st, 4 mo.—Have
been to the Tract Depository this afternoon but do not find as much choice of
books as at New Orleans. St. Louis is a busy & increasing city, but by no
means as pleasant one, & we find most things very dear. Here at New Orleans,
and other towns in the Southern States, there is no copper currency in use
except at the post-office, & the smallest silver coin in use is the five
cent piece. Have been much engaged in writing & sorting books. Our dear
children are remembered by me oftener than the day, & desires are raised in
my heart for their preservation from the snares of our unwearied adversary: from
the undue influence of the spirit of the world which keeps the mind afloat: and
from fleshly lusts which war against the soul. Many of friends & relations
are also brought before my mind with desires for their encouragement.
23rd, 4 mo.—Still
at St. Louis. Made up & posted letters for England. Yesterday there was an
account in the newspaper of an explosion on board the Steamboat " Falls
City", by the bursting of the boiler as she was about to sail from New
Orleans to this City: by which accident several persons lost their lives. And
this morning there is the report of the loss of a steamboat by fire. She sailed
up the river last evening in company with another boat, with which she commenced
racing: after proceeding about 5 miles the other boat got ahead of her, when the
crew used great efforts to increase their speed. After supplying the engine
fires with rosin, the mate ordered a barrel of turpentine, one end of which was
burst open, and pieces of firewood were dipped into the spirits, and then thrown
into the furnace. Some hot embers fell upon the floor already sprinkled with
turpentine; some firewood lying near ignited, & whilst throwing it
overboard, the barrel was upset, the spirits flowed around, and instantly the
boat was enveloped in flames. Consternation seized the passengers & crew,
some of whom threw themselves into the water, others tried to leap on shore
towards which the head of the boat had been turned. One woman was observed to
throw her infant on shore; but on endeavouring to save another it proved too
heavy and fell into the water, a third fared the same fate but eventually the
mother & her children were rescued. Another female was seen lingering near
one of the paddle boxes on the upper deck, but being encouraged to spring from
the deck & endeavour to save herself, she made an effort to do so, but her
dress caught upon something & she swung under the deck & fell into the
burning mass below. We heard the fire bell tolling at which time the hull of the
burning vessel was floating down the river towards the vessels at the Levee, but
by sending out a boat with suitable men & implements, the flames were
extinguished, & she was driven out of the way, & further danger
prevented, tho' during the conflagration another boat was set on fire. By this
occurrence about 10 persons lost their lives. Circumstances of this kind are not
infrequent, & it is fearful to contemplate the little value which seems to
be set upon human life.
24th, 4 mo.—Last
evening we spent a few hours in a social & more solemn manner, & took
tea at Wm Alderson's. Called upon the widow Lucy Ann Kyle, whose maiden name was
Whinstone: she was married to a non- member in early life by which act she lost
her membership in our society but her principles seem to accord with our own.
She resides with her son-in-law, Robert Campbell, whose wife is her daughter. R
C has lived here many years & is a successful merchant. After some
conversation Lucy Ann accompanied us in their carriage to town, and introduced
us to a widow named Sarah Williams of the same class as herself. This person had
private lodgings in the hotel where we were staying. We were in hopes of leaving
here yesterday but could not meet with a suitable boat. My husband has taken
places for us in the "Laclede" to Muscatine in Iowa, a distance of 300
miles. This vessel is adver[ti]sed to sail this evening, but on going on board
we find that she is not likely to leave the wharf until second day evening the
26th. This being the case my dear R L has felt his mind drawn to gospel love
towards our friends here, and he has gone on shore to make arrangements for a
meeting on first day.
26th, 4 mo.—On
seventh day night we lodged on board the "Laclede", and the following
morning attended the meeting which was held at the house of Robert Stagg; 30
persons were present, & thro' the Lord's helping hand we had a good &
solemn meeting wherein my husband had good service and I was constrained to
supplicate at the holy footstool: our hearts were contrited & drawn together
is some of us rejoiced under a feeling of the great love of God thro' Christ
Jesus.
Dined with our
friends, the Staggs, & Charlotte Davis, & her Niece from Cincinnati who
are relatives. Spent the evening & lodged at R Campbell's, where we met with
every comfort & convenience that we could desire. They have a large house
& furnished in English style. At one time they held a few slaves but
Virginia Campbell not liking the system, nor the care of young negroes, they
were set free. Their servants at the present time are Swiss, German & Irish.
This morning we
took leave of our kind friends and called at the residence of John How, who is
largely engaged in the tanning, & currying business: he is a man greatly
beloved & respected, and is so much inclined to benefit his neighbours that
he is called "the poor man's friend". He appears to have been
successful in business; & at one time he held the office of Mayor of the
City.
Went on board the
steamboat before noon, and took the opportunity of writing while all was quiet.
27th, 4mo.—Third
day. We did not sail until 1/2 past six last evening when we took a final leave
of St. Louis which is a fine & flourishing City containing about 140
thousand inhabitants. Near the river, and in the business part of the City the
streets are ill paved & dirty but the suburbs behind the town contain many
good & well built houses chiefly of brick which are painted. The roads are
clean, wide, & well paved, & trees planted at intervals. Some of the
best houses have gardens attached, in one of which I noticed a bed of tulips in
full bloom. Beds of coal & stone are in the neighbourhood.
The Mississippi is dotted with islands of various form
& size, and covered with trees. A large timber raft is floating down the
river under the care of several men. There are not many passengers; we have 2
women who are of the lower class of Germans with whom we are unable to converse.
At one of the stopping places we noticed two neatly dressed fair looking young
women come on board, but not seeing them at the cabin table where we take our
meals, I enquired where they were & was informed that they were of the mixed
negro class, & took their meals below with the stewardess & colored
waiters.
28th, 4 mo.—Have
just passed the town of Keokuk and we are now going thro' the rapids which
extend about 18 miles; when the river is low they cannot be sailed over by big
boats on account of the projecting rocks. A railway has recently been
constructed from this place to Montrose, a distance of 20 miles, by which this
inconvenience is in some degree met. On the opposite side of the river lies
Nauvoo, formerly a head station of the Mormons. We see the remains of the temple
built upon rising ground at the head of the town; the walls are still standing
but the roof & windows are gone, and it remains as the wreck of a monument
of the folly of man. Every ten or 15 miles we pass a small town; Burlington
& Otquoke are some of the largest which we have seen this morning.
29th, 4 mo.—Landed
at Muscatine in Iowa at 1/2 past 2 o'clock this morning, and went to an hotel
where we got a little sleep, & after breakfast by enquiries made our way to
the house of Samuel Adams.
Thermometer 80° in
the shade.
2nd, 5 mo.—First
day. On 6th day we took tea & spent the evening at the house of Brinton
& Amelia Darlington. The latter a sweet spirited friend in the station of a
minister. Yesterday we had a cold wet & windy ride to Bloomington where the
Monthly Meeting was held. There are many friends scattered around, and they have
a good frame meeting house which on this occasion was pretty well filled. The
wing of our heavenly Father's love & solemnizing presence was felt to spread
over us, under the feeling of which we were constrained to labor according to
the measure of grace bestowed. The women's meeting for discipline was an
interesting occasion & toward the close a man friend entered the meeting
& informed us that he had a prospect of religious service in New England
Yearly Meeting; also to attend New York, Ohio, & Indiana, Y.M., and to hold
some meetings within their limits which he was united with. The friend who acted
as clerk and who was in the station of an elder afterwards informed us that she
felt it to be her duty to accompany her husband, which being approved of she
went to inform the men who liberated her for the service. The friends of this
meeting emigrated chiefly from New York & New England, & appear to be in
a lively condition, three men are acknowledged ministers, & several women
occasionally speak in their meetings.
Dined with Olny
& Lydia Thompson, the friends who claimed our attention in meeting. Returned
to Muscatine with our truly kind & interesting friends Samuel & M. J.
Adams. In the evening we had to wait some time for the arrival of a steam boat,
but about 9 o'clock, took our departure for Davenport. The distance is about 30
miles and we were informed that we would arrive there about midnight, instead of
which the boat steered to Rock Island on the other side of the river. We had an
uncomfortable night, & very broken sleep, and the weather was so cold that
we could scarcely keep warm. Arose at 5 a. m. expecting to be taken across the
river, which after much delay & consequent mortification was accomplished;
& Robert Steer met & took us to his house: his Father-in-law, Peleg
Wilbur, came with us from Muscatine. There are only two families in Davenport
& one young man who are members of our society. A meeting is held at R
Steers on first day morning; and at this time we sat down, 15 in number. Having
had such a disturbed night I was greatly oppressed with heaviness, but thro' the
Lord's wonder working power, the spirit of prayer came over me and access was
granted to the holy foot stool. My dear husband ministered unto us. Spent the
rest of the day with our friends. This town contains about 17,000 persons.
Rose early the next
morning &; came by train to West Liberty, 35 miles, where we were met by
Elliot, the only son of Thomas & Annabelle Winn; who took us to his Father's
house at Red Cedar, 6 miles distant, where we met with a cordial reception. In
the afternoon Ann Morrow, formerly Abbott, came to see us, & having been
members of the same meeting in younger days, it was mutually pleasant to meet:
she is much affected with the rheumatism but lodges with a family where she is
nicely cared for. Next day we dined at Greenberry Wood's who was one of the
first settlers here: he has a wife & four children. They are in the nursery
business. In the afternoon attended the select meeting at Red Cedar, which held
long, but it was a time of suffering to my own mind. The friends seem to be
preserved in love, but I thought a little deepening in the root of true religion
would be beneficial to many.
5th, 5 mo.—Iowa.
Fourth day. This morning we attended the Mo. Meeting at Red Cedar where we met a
large body of friends. The Great Head of the church was not unmindful of us, but
was strength in weakness & a very present helper in time of need. Many of
the women shew an interest in meetings for discipline & stand upon an
equality with the men. There were two applications for membership. Samuel Lloyd,
a minister, accompanied by another man entered our meeting and opened his
prospect of visiting the different meetings in Iowa, & holding some public
meetings; he had previously been liberated by the men's meeting, and the women
uniting therewith, the way was open for his procedure.
Dined with Lauri & M. A. Tatham, who were amongst
the first settlers here, and they are still living in the log cabin which was
put up on their arrival, tho' some needful additions have been made to it.
The settlement of friends extends about 6 miles: many
of them have good frame houses, furnished in simple style. They have just
erected a large frame meeting house, and on seventh day a Quarterly Meeting is
to be opened in it for the first time. The floor being laid with unplaned boards
has rather a rough appearance, but as they will not often undergo the process of
washing it may answer well. After some days of cold wet weather we have had an
agreeable change and the roads which were almost impassible are drying up a
little. There being no foot paths, and the roads in some places being ankle deep
in mud, we feel quite deprived of the benefit of walking, and have to ride if we
call upon a friend. Some of the sloughs are difficult to get through, even in a
carriage.
On fifth day dined
with Henry Rowntree and wife: he came here from England in early life has had
many reverses of fortune and is now engaged in farming, he has 5 sons & 2
daughters: E R & his wife are persons of talent. Henry has a gift in the
ministry & if favoured to keep in the low valley of humility seems likely to
be very useful amongst his friends. Called to see James Hodgson & wife,
formerly of Manchester; he is a cabinet maker, appears very industrious &
gets plenty of work: they have put up a neat frame house, and if favoured with
health, seem likely to do well.
On sixth day
morning attended the select Q. M., a favored season wherein we were fed with the
crumbs which fell from the Master's table. Dined at Samuel Pearson's whose house
& farm buildings are the best which we have seen in this part of the State.
His wife & 4 daughters seem very industrious, and attend to their own
domestic work.
8th, 5 mo.—Iowa.
Seventh day. Closed letters for England and at 11 a. m. attended the first
sitting of Red Cedar Quarterly Meeting, Iowa. The house, calculated to hold 400
persons, was well filled, and thro' the Lord's continued goodness we had a
favoured meeting wherein divers testimonies were borne inciting to diligence in
the great & all important work of true religion. The meetings for discipline
were interesting seasons, and the business was transacted with much harmony.
After our Certificates were read, there was such an expression of sympathy &
unity, that I felt deeply humbled: many hearts were contrited, and tears shed,
under a feeling of the Lord's goodness and protecting care over two strangers
who were journeying far from home. We had breakfast at 7 a. m: the meeting held
until 1/2 past four and at 6 p. m, we dined with Isreal & Ruth Negus where
Ann Morrow resides. Eleven hours seemed a long time between meals, but it is not
the custom here to have a recess between meetings. The weather for the most part
has been cloudy, cold, &; wet, but this morning is fine & sunny.
9th, 5 mo.—First
day. There was a full meeting in the morning and the solemnizing presence of the
Lord was felt to spread over us. Several testimonies were borne, mostly of an
awakening character: and prayers were offered for our preservation. In the
afternoon attended the Scripture School: it is open to others besides members
children, & seems likely to be useful here where infidelity is striving to
erect its head and to undermine the great truths of the gospel. Some friends
came to our lodgings in the evening, and after the usual scripture reading, my R
L addressed several states present, and our hearts were warmed with the love of
God.
Next morning took
leave of our truly kind friends, Thomas & Annabella Winn; the latter has a
superior & refined mind and has latterly spoken in meetings for worship. She
was brought up & married in Philadelphia, but her husband being unsuccessful
in business, they have had many trials and during our sojourn of a week under
their roof I have many times thought she seemed more redeemed from the world
than any person that I have previously known: like Mary of old she seemed to sit
at the feet of her Savior.
Dilworth Schooly
drove us 6 miles to Honey Grove where a meeting had been appointed at 11 a. m.
About 13 families have an indulged meeting on first day morning which is held in
a dwelling house. On this occasion it was much crowded, but we had a solid &
good meeting wherein gospel truths were opened, I trust to the edification of
some present. After dining at John Hacock's where the meeting was held, rode 12
miles to Centre where another indulged meeting is kept.
11th, 5 mo.—Lodged
at Absolum Raley's, and at 10 a. m. attended their meeting held at Isaiah
Stanley's; 8 families attend this meeting, but 45 persons were present this
morning when the Lord was our helper, and we had fresh cause to set up an
Ebenezar to his praise. After dinner rode 13 miles to Iowa City, which is laid
out upon a large scale but the houses are far apart: it is pleasantly situated
upon rising ground; good wide streets laid out, but as they are not yet paved,
it is difficult to walk along in wet weather.
13th, 5 mo.—Iowa
City. Lodged at a comfortable hotel & set out early the following morning.
Crossing the Iowa River we rode over some large prairies, and entered a level
country at the Old Man's Creek, which is bordered with a thick belt of timber,
along side of which we traveled some miles thro' a settled district. Recrossing
the creek we rode alongside or between groves of wild plum, apple, crab,
raspberry, & hazel bushes, all growing in wild luxuriance. Birds of various
note & plumage were enjoying the sunshine: the blackbird is large & the
male has red feathers at the root of its wings which has a pretty appearance
when extended. The robin is much larger than our English bird bearing that name;
its head & tail are black, and its breast a muddy brown.
Crossed a fork of
the English River & arrived at Millersburg about 6 p. m. and lodged at Isaac
McBrides, a friend of our driver. Set out early this morning, crossed one fork
of the English River & forded another somewhat deep. The various sloughs at
the foot of the ridges in riding over the pra[i]ries are a great discomfort to
us. We noticed some pra[i]rie chickens today. Many sweet & varied flowers
adorn the grass, we notice the buttercup but miss the daisy. At the close of our
days journey, when entering a lane leading to a friend's house at Gilead, our
horses were not able to draw the carriage thro' a slough: one of them fell down
in it, and they had to be released from the vehicle and a pair of oxen yoked to
draw it out. It took us 6 hours to travel about 18 miles. After our arrival
there was a violent tempest of rain & wind accompanied by thunder &
lightning which for about 15 minutes seemed as if it would sweep everything
before it. Some of the houses shook & the wooden fences were torn assunder,
& left upon heaps: we esteemed it a great favor to have a shelter at such a
time. Lodged at Cyrenius Emmon's, & next morning attended an appointed
meeting in the school house belonging to friends at the small settlement called
Gilead, where about 13 families reside within a few miles of each other. Some
other persons were present, & ability was given to preach Christ crucified.
There are a few separatists who have absented themselves from the body, or from
meeting for worship with their brethren. These were invited & came to the
meeting where the drawing cord of our heavenly Father's love was felt uniting us
to the Great Head of the church who seemed to be waiting to unite all (out of
scisms & divisions) under his seamless garment.
Here we parted from
our young friend, Dilworth Schooly, & in the afternoon had a drive of 23
miles. Owing to the late rains the roads were in bad condition, & in passing
thro' the numerous sloughs, it was distressing to see our poor horses up to the
knees in mud, and we greatly feared that they would not be able to get along.
Fortunately we reached the house of John & Susannah Hichiner at Sharon soon
after sunset where we met with a kind welcome. They have 8 children, all at
home: the 3 eldest are sons, fine healthy looking young men, the youngest of
them is 17 years of age & stands 6 ft, 3 inches high. On seventh day morning
had a meeting in the school house wherein my R L had good service and I silently
bore my burden, there seeming no necessity to cast it upon my friends.
Nine families
compose this meeting. In the afternoon rode 10 miles to Centre Grove: being well
acquainted with the country, J. Hichiner drove us over the high pra[i]ries where
the road was much better, and we crossed the Skunk River in a flat. Weather very
cold with slight showers of hail. Slept at David Wilsons and on first day
morning the 16th attended a meeting held as usual in their school house, a good
building two stories high: we had a good meeting. My dear husband spoke to us
from the text: " If any of you lack wisdom, let him ask of God, who giveth
to all men liberally, & uptraideth not &c. &c." Prayer was
offered & it was an open & favored time. Returned to Sharon in the
afternoon, & set out again next morning to Sugar Creek, but found that the
water in the Creek had overflowed the bridge, and a meeting having been
appointed on the other side we knew not what to do. At length it was agreed for
the meeting to be held in a house near where we were as some of the friends
lived on this side: but so great was the desire of some of those across the
water to attend the meeting that they took the bed of a waggon off the wheels
and by means of a rope which was thrown across the stream about 12 persons were
drawn across in the waggon, a few at a time.
We were seated in
the cottage about 4 p. m. which was much crowded, & what with the heat, the
crying of infants, and great exercise of mind into which I was drawn, it was a
distressing time to myself. My dear husband had an open time in preaching the
gospel, and I trust some things which were said would be as a nail fastened in a
sure place. The parties who offered their house for the meeting belonged to a
body called Hicksites. After meeting we hastened back to recross the river, at
some distance, fearing it might rise higher, and prevent our procedure. A guide
led the way across the bayou which is formed by the overflowing water breaking
down the banks of the river. It was deep in some places but we got safely thro',
& thus got onto the bridge. The exercise of riding thro' the sloughs &
wet land is very exhausting both to body & mind, but a good nights rest
generally restores us. Lodged at Jesse Arnold's at Lynnville.
19th,
5 mo.—Fourth day. Rode to China
yesterday morning, and had a meeting at Samuel Butler's, composed of 6 families,
3 of which consisted of 10 children each & their parents. The calming
influence of our heavenly Father's love spread over us, & my R L spoke from
the text: "The well is deep & thou hast nothing to draw with". An
unusual number of youths were present. Proceeded to Pleasant View in the
afternoon, distant 18 miles. Lodged at Ambrose Osbornes. Yesterday morning was
fine & sunny, rain fell in the afternoon, & this morning is cloudy &
dull. The farmers are discouraged with the continued cold weather, which has
lasted longer than usual this year.
Pleasant View 18, 5
mo. A meeting house has recently been erected here which is seated with rude
forms, without backs. The meeting this morning was a season when judgment was
laid to the line, & righteousness to the plum line; and an alarm sounded on
the Lord's holy mountain to the careless sons & daughters, whilst
encouragement flowed to the sincere hearted mourners. In the afternoon rode 4
miles to Centre. Slept at Evan Henshaw's, whose wife was truly kind to us.
21st, 5 mo.—Iowa.
Sixth day. At 9 a m. yesterday we had a meeting at Centre, which was a searching
& awakening time to the careless & lukewarm, but comfort flowed to the
Lord's tribulated children. The meeting house was in an unfinished state, &
temporary boards had been put down which were very wet & caused our feet to
become cold. Delicate persons should not come into newly settled places, as
there are not the comforts to be found which they require. The soil here is of a
ruddy brown, and the boys not wearing shoes or stockings, their feet look like
those of colored people. It is the custom in these parts for all classes to sit
down together at meal times, and if there are any workmen, however ragged or
dirty they may be, they are treated with marked attention & sometimes take
the lead in conversation.
Dined with Matilda
White, an interesting widow who resides in a log cabin; her husband died about 5
years ago leaving her with 7 children. She has a farm, & works upon the
land, assisted by her son, a youth of 15, & two younger daughters. In the
afternoon proceeded to Hopewell, a distance of 25 miles.
On approaching the
south Skunk River, we found the water had formed a bayou on the flat land
adjoining, in crossing which the water entered our carriage & made it
uncomfortable, rather increasing a cold & hoarsness which I have had for
some days. After considerable difficulty in finding our way over the pra[i]ries,
& plunging at unawares into a deep slough which for a moment took one of our
horses off his feet, we reached our place of destination about 8 p. m. and were
glad to find a shelter for ourselves & horses under the roof of Wm Hibbs.
Our friend John Michiner is still with us. Here we found a small company with
whom we had a satisfactory meeting this morning in Wm Hibb's house.
23rd, 5 mo.—Indianola;
Iowa. First day. On sixth day afternoon accompanied by Samuel Chambers &
wife as guides, we rode over the pra[i]ries to the 4 mile Creek, and took up our
quarters at J. J's whose wife has been blind 11 years. Two daughters about 15
& 17 years of age had charge of the house, but we had painfully to see &
feel their need of more efficient care & inspection in domestic concerns.
No regular meeting
is kept up here, but the few families professing with us, met in a school house
on seventh day morning. Many other persons joined us, and we had a satisfactory
meeting, at the close of which my dear husband desired our friends to remain a
little longer, and expressed his desire that they should meet together for the
purpose of divine worship. Some of them seemed to see & feel the need of it,
but did not like to take upon themselves the responsibility. As generally the
case my R L distributed tracts at the close of the meeting.
Dined at the widow
Adamson's who has an interesting family of grown up sons & Daughters.
Rode 8 miles to
Fort Desmoines, a considerable town at the foot of the Desmoine & Racoon
Rivers; and the capitol of the State.
A peculiar illusion
meets the eye in passing over these pra[i]ries. We observe what appears to be a
large white frame house upon which we look with interest; but after travelling
some miles we find it dwindles to a cottage, one story high: and the same thing
applies to groves of trees. Last evening rain & hail, accompanied by thunder
& lightning came on and continued until sun rise this morning: when we set
out early and rode 20 miles to Indianola where there is a settled meeting. One
of our kind friend John Michiner's horses requiring rest, he returned home, and
Mahlon Haworth drove us 14 miles to Calvin Haworth's, but owing to the bad
roads, it was after 9 p. m. when we arrived, & most of the family had
retired to rest.
Our guide has lived
12 years in Iowa but never saw such continued rain as there has been for the
last few weeks. We have to go many miles round to avoid creeks & sloughs
which are impassible: and on the best roads our horses do not generally make
more than 3 miles an hour. Dined at Ellwood Haworths at Hickory Grove, where a
small indulged meeting is held. At 2 p. m. we sat down with the friends &
their neighbours: the house was much crowded, and my dear Husband had
considerable service in the ministry: but I do not remember ever sitting a more
painful meeting as regards both body & mind. I had a very uncomfortable
seat, and feeling much exhausted from plunging thro' the mud, day after day, I
was ready to faint away. We afterwards rode some miles and lodged at Isaac
Haworth's; felt his mind drawn to visit some other friends residing at a
distance, but as there seemed to be no chance at present, on account of bad
roads & swollen creeks, we returned to Indianola; but finding it difficult
to obtain either a guide or horses, but at last we borrowed an old carriage,
& hired horses from an hotel; the landlord drove us but the roads were worse
than ever. We had not proceeded half way, before we plunged into a deep slough
where the horses broke their swingletrees, and we had to borrow harness from a
farmer who lived near. After we had gone a few miles, a like accident befell us,
but fortunately being near a house we obtained assistance & went on our way.
In one fearful place we alighted to relieve the horses, and altho' trying to
choose the best part of the road, I got up to the ankle in mud & lost one of
my over shoes. Before reaching the town, our carriage pole nearly broke in two,
but with repairing we reached the Racoon River which lay between us & the
town, about 8 p. m., but on looking for the bridge it was not to be seen. The
river had risen several feet & spread over the land. The carriage &
horses had to remain behind, but we were taken across in a skiff: and had to
wait some time standing on the damp ground until a man went to the Inn for a
waggon to take us & our baggage. We were weary in body but felt thankful
that no serious accident had befallen us. It is almost in vain to attempt a
description of the country at this time. Some nice smooth looking places on the
road are like dough in which the horses sink up to their knees, and much of the
low flat land is covered with water. Finding that the roads are impassible for
hacks, we feel like prisoners, but are staying at a comfortable hotel. There is
some change in the weather this morning, & the day is fine & sunny.
28th, 5 mo.—Yesterday
the heat was oppressive. The frame houses soon get heated, & we could not
find a cool place. The best of the three bridges over the Des-Moines River is a
handsome wooden one, built at a cost of 27,000 dollars, & supported by stone
pillars, one of which has given way within the last few days. The others
are floating wooden ones supported by boats, but have been useless owing to the
increased width of the stream, so are drawn aside to prevent their being washed
away. Took a short walk this afternoon, and observed the ground that we crossed
in a carriage on 3rd day, now covered with water, & persons were travelling
in boats.
Called at the
livery stables, and were informed that the roads were still impassible. The
usual stage coach has been delayed much beyond the usual time of its arrival,
and the passengers report that they had frequently to alight & walk, it
being enough for the horses to drag the empty carriage thro' the mud. Such being
the case I have been attending to needful repairs; & as the waters have not
risen today, we hope soon to proceed to Marietta where we expect to find letters
from home.
30th, 5 mo.—During
our tarrience of 5 days at the Fort we have heard of several persons who are
connected with friends. Called with my husband upon 2 of this class yesterday,
& dined with C. Dawson and wife.
My R L feeling it
to be in the line of duty to hold a public meeting with the inhabitants, notices
have been printed & circulated and at 3 o'clock this afternoon we met a
large company in a public room engaged for the purpose, when my dear husband was
strengthened to preach the unsearchable riches of Christ. The open sinners were
warned to flee from the wrath to come, & shown from various passages in
Scripture that the wages of sin is eternal death. The self righteous were
reminded of their dangerous condition in trusting to their own good works, and
encouragement flowed to the Lord's true born children. Altho' few present knew
but little of our simple mode of worship, great quietitude prevailed, & it
was a solemn season.
I cannot describe
the cross it is to self, & the conflict of mind into which I am introduced
at public meetings in having to sit upon a raised seat beside my husband,
without one female friend to bear me company, particularly as I do not often
venture to speak on such occasions, except it be to bow the knee in prayer, for
the Lord's blessing. But however trying at the time, I can bear testimony that
when there is a willing mind, hard things are made easy, & bitter things
sweet; and on returning from this meeting, I think we could unitedly adopt the
language: "Return unto thy rest, Oh my soul! for the Lord hath dealt
bountifully with thee."
31st, 5 mo.—Second
day. Left Fort Des-Moines about 1/2 past 3 o'clock this morning by mail stage.
The roads were in bad condition, & before crossing the river Skunk, the
stage was changed for an open waggon. The water was spread over the adjacent
land for the breadth of 1/2 a mile, thro' which we had to ride; I think we never
had a rougher journey; we were jerked & tossed from side to side, I was many
times raised from my seat & had to hold by the seat before me to prevent
being hurt. On arriving at Newton at 2 p. m. were sufficiently tired to make a
change agreeable. We were in hopes of proceeding to Marietta this afternoon, but
the driver is not willing to proceed until tomorrow morning. Were it not for the
bad roads we should have much pleasure in admiring the country: there being many
beautiful undulating pra[i]ries, also level ones covered with green grass,
interspersed with blue, pink, red, yellow & orange flowers. Hundreds of
acres lie unoccupied, chiefly in the hands of speculators, but all the unfenced
land is common stock as regards grazing. The cattle roam at large, the cows
generally having a string tied round their necks to which a bell is hung, and I
suppose the owners can distinguish the sound of the bells. This morning we met a
string of 18 waggons in which were women, children, & domestic goods, fowls,
&c., &c. Some of the vehicles were drawn by six, & others by four
oxen. The men drove the loose cattle. Truly the Americans are a moving &
unsettled people. A few days since we were in company with a man who said that
he came to Iowa from the State of New York, at a time when he had such an over
plus of money that he did not know how to invest it: and now he was so poor that
he was glad to get a job of any kind whereby to earn a living.
2nd, 6 mo.—Marietta,
Marshall Co. Iowa. Set out at an early hour yesterday morning and passed over
the ridges of many fine sloping pra[i]ries, but our driver was not familiar with
the road. On being directed into an Indian trail, it led us to a public road,
but we travelled 4 miles without passing a dwelling house: we had to alight
several times & walk, picking our way round the sloughs and creeks, it being
enough for the horses to draw the empty carriage. About mid day we came to a few
houses called the Kentucky settlement, where the horses were baited, and we
partook of some good rich milk and bread. Four families own 7,000 acres of land,
260 of which are under cultivation, but being 18 miles from any market, &
wheat being worth only about 25 cents per bushel this year, & the store
keepers having little money, and only being able to pay in goods, the settlers
were discouraged; they lived in rude log cabins, and only seemed able to procure
the common necessities of life. The day was very fine, the sun shining in the
clear blue sky, and had it not been for the continual fear of either missing our
way or getting into the sloughs, we should have more fully enjoyed the beauties
surrounding us. Our driver, an interesting young man, had five fingers & a
thumb upon each hand.
Took up our
quarters at a house of accommodation, and found that the family were connected
with our society. Found letters from our dear children &c. at the Post
Office, and an Annual Monitor for the present year.
With the exception
of our youngest daughter E being still delicate, our family were in unusual
health, and we trust under the care of Him who sleepeth not by day, nor
slumbereth by night. What shall we render unto the Lord for all His benefits?
Shall we not take the cup of salvation, calling upon Him to enable us to drink
it even to the dregs, seeing that He is too wise to err, too good to be unkind?
Whilst riding over
the pra[i]ries yesterday, and admiring the beauties of the outward creation,
given us richly to enjoy, I thought how fleeting, short-lived, and uncertain are
all earthly things: "And that he builds too low, who builds .beneath the
skies." A circumstance was related to me a few days ago which took place
during a tempest which we witnessed a few days since. On that fatal afternoon, a
man who had retired from business, and was comfortably married, anticipating
much domestic enjoyment with his family, had taken a pleasure boat and they were
sailing down the river, when suddenly the storm arose, and before they reached
the shore, the boat capsized; the wife and children were drowned, and the
unfortunate father had an hairbreadth escape from losing his life. Surely such
things should deeply impress our minds with the injunction, "Be ye also
ready, for at such a time as ye think not, the Son of Man cometh."
This little town
like many others in Iowa appears to be laid out on a large scale, but the
buildings are far apart, many of them having plots of land & gardens around.
Our lodgings are on one side of a large square in a central situation, having a
view of the broad belt of timber bordering the Iowa River. This stream has
overflowed its banks and spread over the adjoining land, and I felt much afraid
yesterday on hearing that on approaching the town, the waters were so deep that
the horses had to swim, but fortunately we entered on the other side. On
awakening early this morning I heard the tinkling of the cow bell, & the
peculiar sound of the pra[i]rie chickens.
Rain has fallen
during the night, & the sky is cloudy.
3rd, 6 mo.—Marietta.
Last night was a stormy one, with hail, rain, thunder & lighting, flashes of
the latter being very vivid, and almost continuous until daybreak. A friend took
us in a waggon to Hartland, where 7 families keep up a meeting in a school
house. A stranger had some service. My dear husband addressed us, and it seemed
to be my place to bow the knee in prayer. Dined at Ira Cook's, who afterwards
drove us 8 miles to Bangor where a new Quarterly Meeting is to be opened on
seventh day called Western Plains. Lodged at the house of a highly gifted
minister James Owen, where we met our worthy & honored friend Asenath Clark.
7th, 6 mo.—Bangor,
Second day. Attended the Select meeting on sixth day morning which was an
interesting time. Dined in company with Lindly Murray Hoag and his lovely young
wife, the former is looking well but thinner than when I last saw him in
England.
On seventh day morning the Q. M. opened at 11 a. m. A
new meeting house is now in course of erection, but was blown down a few weeks
since, and they have not been able to finish it for this interesting occasion.
The old meeting house is a rude log building, in addition to which a temporary
shed was erected, calculated to hold 300 persons, and the day being fine there
was a full attendance. We had the company of Rebecca Updegraph from Ohio, who is
a woman of good natural talent, & largely gifted as a minister. She was the
only daughter of Jonathan Taylor who died in Ireland whilst on a visit to the
British Isles. She had considerable service in this meeting, and several other
friends preached to us: prayers were offered and it was a favored time.
The discipline was conducted in good feeling; James
Owen, was liberated for service in Indiana. It was with much difficulty, and at
the hazard of their lives that some parties got there. Three men had to swim
across one stream, and to walk thro' another where the water reached up to the
waist. They carried their clothes upon their heads; and altho' undergoing such
hardships, they did not appear to have suffered materially, and I heard one of
the party say that he felt well rewarded for his trouble in attending the
meetings. Three others who had minutes for religious service only got here on
7th day evening. We had a very full meeting yesterday, wherein the Lord was
mercifully pleased to own us by the breaking of bread. Rebecca Updegraph &
Asenath Clark took a prominent part in the service of the meeting. Several other
friends were engaged in the ministry, & we had a short address from James
Owen, who is pretty much self taught as to outward learning: but his mind seems
to have been cast in a superior mold. He is eloquent & has a fine gift as a
minister.
Took leave of our
friends after dinner, & rode 10 miles to Providence, where about 20 families
hold a meeting in a school house. Lodged at Eleazer Andrews & this morning
attended an appointed meeting where we met John & Daniel Barker, on similar
service. The Lord was our helper, & I trust a little seed was sown which
under his blessing may bring forth fruit to his praise. Being furnished with a
carriage & horses, accompanied by John Kinsey, we came to Dab Creek this
morning. Had the river been fordable the distance was only 8 miles but going
round to a bridge made it 13.
10th, 6 mo.—Fifth
day. On third day we had a meeting in a school house which was much crowded,
& there seemed no means of ventilation. My R L had considerable service, but
it was a suffering time to me both in body & mind. Lodged at Edmund Kinsey's
and at 6 p. m. set out on a journey of 160 miles. The first 15 was over the
unfenced pra[i]ries where we did not see a dwelling house, and only one grove of
trees. Came thro' the country town of Grundy which is in an infantile state only
containing 8 houses, and a newly erected court house. Want of timber seems to
prevent this section of Iowa from being much settled: stone is also very scarce.
We often see bad places in the roads mended with branches of trees & sticks,
& the interstices filled up with straw. Lodged at a comfortable farm house;
and this morning rode thro' Waterloo, the County seat of Black Hawk, to
Jane[s]ville where we dined, & crossed the Red Cedar River. Slept at
Syracuse.
12th, 6 mo.—Seventh
day. Recrossed the river at Nashua over a high bridge, but were informed that we
could not get over the bayous & forks beyond, without considerable risk, but
our driver using needful precautions we ventured and got safely through. After
passing through the small towns of Bradford & Chickasaw, we came to a
district which was a continuation of the sloughs & wet land for about two
miles. After plunging for some time our horses got into a deep place & one
of them fell down. We alighted & walked some distance to a house, while the
friend, our driver, sought a better path for the horses.
After dinner our
kind host accompanied us to the Wapsipinicon River with the intention of
rendering us some assistance in crossing, but we found the water overflowing the
banks, and a rapid bayou had formed which we could not cross except at the
hazard of our lives, so we concluded to return to the house & wait until
next morning. But finding the stream still impassible & my husband feeling
his mind drawn in gospel love towards the people in this thinly settled district
where there is no regular place of worship, notice has been given of a meeting
to be held in a school house tomorrow morning.
14th, 6 mo.—About
20 persons attended the meeting and ability was afforded to discharge
apprehended duty—To the Lord be all the praise! In the afternoon accompanied
by our host, Charles Daman, & 3 youths we again went to the river side &
found the water had fallen a little, so with about an hour's hard labor, during
which our host was sometimes up to the waist in water, we were helped thro' the
bayou & over the bridge. But fresh difficulties arose on finding the main
road impassible, and we had to get a guide to lead us round into a road where
the horses could travel. Took up our quarters for the night at a country hotel
called "Pettibones" where we found comfortable quarters. After setting
out this morning we found some bad sloughs in one of which our horses fell down,
and had to be released from the carriage. Fortunately help was near, and a
couple of oxen were borrowed to extricate our carriage. Such circumstances are
extremely harassing & discouraging at the time, but He without whose notice
not even a sparrow falleth to the ground " out of seeming evil still
educeth good". And in this case our catastrophe was the means of
introducing us to a very interesting family who removed here from Canada some
time ago, but were under much discouragement on account of their bad location,
want of religious society, and schools for the education of their children. The
district is very broken & much covered with hazel bushes. Some of the
cleared ground is of such a loose & rotten texture that it will not bear the
weight of the cattle without their sinking up to the knees.
When within about 2
miles of the first settlement of friends in Winneshiek, the face of the country
changed and we again entered fine smooth pra[i]rie land.
Reached the house
of Enos George at Fairview about 4 p. m. truly glad once more to get amongst our
own class of friends, tho' many of them seem to have but few of the comforts and
conveniences of life: but they gave us a welcome and did their best to
accommodate us.
15th, 6 mo.—Third
day. At Decorah, the County town of Winneshiek, situated on the upper Iowa
River. This morning we had a meeting at Fairview where about 7 families hold a
regular indulged meeting. Best help being near, we had a satisfactory
opportunity. After dinner drove 20 miles to this place which is beautifully
situated in the centre of limestone bluffs, in a wooded district. We are the
guests of Joseph Gibbons & wife, refined & agreeable friends. In
concluding this packet of letters I may say, that tho' often feeling faint
hearted, we are mercifully enabled to pursue the path of duty, day by day, so
far as we are enabled to discern it, & have an abundant reason once more to
set up an Ebenezar to the Lord's praise.
18th, 6 mo.—Left
Decorah on fourth day morning & rode 6 miles to Spring Water where a meeting
was held in a newly erected meeting house. The Lord was our helper, and close
doctrine was applied to such as might be in a lukewarm state, and have lost the
dew of their youth.
Dined at L.
Blackman's, and rode 10 miles to attend a meeting called Winneshiek: lodged at
Tristrem Allen's, and found the meeting house in an unfinished state. The Lord
was mercifully pleased to own us, & my dear husband had good service in
unison with the exercise of my own mind. "If anything be revealed to
another that sitteth by, let the first hold his peace" is a text which is
consistent with gospel order: my own mind often being exercised upon subjects
which my R L gives expression to, & I esteem it a favor to be a silent
burden bearer.
The weather has been fine for some days: yesterday the
thermometer stood at 90° in the shade, and the heat was almost overpowering. We
are now at Thomas Painter's at Pleasant Valley where an indulged meeting is kept
up which we attended, and were enabled to discharge ourselves of apprehended
duty. Left the place the same afternoon and proceeded towards the next meeting,
distant 50 miles, in an open waggon upon springs: a young man called William
Proud is our guide & driver.
Called by the way
to see L. Jones & family who removed here from Ohio after being unsuccessful
in business. Their change of circumstances appears to be deeply felt by his wife
towards whom the language of encouragement was felt & expressed.
20th, 6 mo.—First
day. On sixth day night we lodged at a small hotel which we were recommended as
a good house. The inmates seemed clean & tidy persons, but the travelers bed
room contained 6 beds, of which we had the choice, but were much disappointed
with our ordinary accommodations. The scenery by which we are now surrounded is
a contrast to the green grassy plains over which we have lately passed. Here we
find the unfenced pra[i]rie dotted over with a small growth of timber, or
covered with oak & hazel bushes. We see many stony bluffs, & travel
thro' passes between the hills, from some of which issue fine springs of water.
Yesterday afternoon we arrived at Elk Horn in Minnesota, & lodged with our
worthy friends, David & Phebe Steers: but the night was one which we shall
long remember from the prevalence of the mosquitoes which were so numerous, so
noisy, & tormenting, that with all our ingenuity it seemed in vain to court
sleep, & scarcely got any: consequently we feel languid this morning.
There are a number
of friends families around here who hold an indulged meeting in one of their
houses: but this morning we met in a school house which was filled well by
friends & others. God gave the word which his feeble instruments were
enabled to publish, I trust to the relief & peace of their own minds. Here
we found George Moor who emigrated from Darlington about 7 years ago. Great is
the loss which many sustain from coming into newly formed settlements in this
country. Several of G. Moor's sons & his only daughter have married &
left our society, and the Father was said to be remiss in the attendance of
meetings. Persons upon the frontiers can raise food for their household pretty
readily, by the cultivation of their land, but in general if there is not a good
market at a reasonable distance very little money passes through their hands.
Their dress & furniture are of the simplest kind, and we often see home made
bed stocks, tables, &c., &c. Cleanliness which is said to be next to
Godliness, I regret to say is too seldom seen, & order, heaven's first law,
too much neglected, but there are exceptions.
22nd, 6 mo.—Third
day. Parted from our worthy friends D & P Steers, on first day afternoon in
an open waggon, the best vehicle which our friends possessed. Our driver not
knowing the road, we made the distance longer than need be, & did not arrive
at Rochester until late in the evening. Finding the exposure of the sun very
oppressive and in addition to the inflammation caused by the bites of the
mosquitoes, a painful eruption having broken out upon my limbs, we concluded to
dismiss the waggon and go forward by a public stage to Lake City where we
arrived about 4 p. m. wearied in body, the stage being much crowded.
This town is
beautifully situated upon the banks of Lake Pepin, which is formed by the
spreading out of the River Mississippi. As the time seemed uncertain when a
steam boat would arrive by which we would proceed to St. Pauls, the capitol of
Minnesota, we retired early and at 6 o'clock next morning were on board the
Metropolitan steam boat. The scenery on this part of the river is very
beautiful. We passed a range of high rocks of a cheese like form, the tops of
which were smooth grassy plains, and the sides perpendicular down to the banks
of the river. Every few miles we pass small towns, or villages, and we make
frequent calls to take in freight or passengers. After jolting in an open waggon
under a scorching sun, I have much enjoyed the change, & this has been a day
of rest where in I could look with pleasure upon the varied natural beauties
around and in something of filial confidence say: " My Father made them
all." Arrived at St. Paul's the same afternoon, having made 100 miles. Took
up our quarters at a comfortable inn called Fullers House, where we found
ourselves much at home, having a bed & sitting room to ourselves. Few but
the weary traveller can tell how grateful it is to meet with a comfortable inn
where he can have a little quiet & retirement. Within the last few days the
thermometer has been 80 in the shade.
24th, 6 mo.—Left
St. Pauls yesterday afternoon by public stage & rode 12 miles to St.
Anthony, thro' a beautifully wooded country, and the land well cultivated. The
Indian corn is much forwarder here than in Iowa, and the soil being sandy, the
roads are much better. The navigation here is obstructed by the Falls, which are
rocky projections stretching across the Mississippi, at no great elevation, down
which the waters fall, and are made use of for some extensive saw mills. The
stream narrows above, and a chain bridge has been thrown across over which we
crossed to Minneapolis which is a considerable town. These towns have sprung up
within the last four years, & contain together about 10,000 inhabitants of a
superior class chiefly from the New England States, and great improvements have
been made.
We are the guests
of Joseph H. Canney & Ursula, his wife, who reside in a wooded district
about a mile from the town where they have a beautiful cottage containing
several rooms both up & down stairs which are kept in nice order altho they
keep no domestic servant. Their only offspring is a little son. These friends
removed here about 4 years ago, before the Indians left the territory, &
their house was the third erected in the neighbourhood.
This morning J. H.
Canney drove us 30 miles to Simone where a few friends reside. Yesterday &
today we have met droves of the 1/2 breed Indians from the Red River settlement
about 600 miles distant. They are in the habit of coming down to St. Pauls once
a year bringing various kinds of skins which they exchange for clothing and
other small things which they require. They have small carts railed round the
sides: the wheels are large but made without iron hoops, and they are drawn by
an ox or a pony. We passed the place where a large company of them had encamped
for the night, during which heavy rain had fallen, & the squaws had spread
bedding, clothing, &c upon the bushes to dry. They seem quiet &
harmless, and we were informed that they sometimes remain for months in the
neighbourhood, being very cautious in disposing of their cattle, wares, &c.
We have seen many
fine lakes this morning; & we dined at a lonely house in the bush where we
saw a beautiful young fawn, which had been caught a few days before. These
lovely creatures soon become very tame and domestic & follow the children
around the house. In riding along we nearly ran over a tortoise; its body was
about a 1/2 a yard long: we understand they are numerous in swampy ground. On
the way we met Rice Price who returned & took us to his house where we
lodged.
28th, 6 mo.—Second
day. We had an appointed meeting at Rice Prices on sixth day morning, when some
of the neighbours were present, and we sat down about 40 persons. My dear
husband addressed us from the text: This is a faithful saying & worthy of
all acceptation: that Jesus Christ came into the world to save sinners &c.
There are three families of friends here who reside within two miles of each
other, but they are not in the habit of holding meetings for worship together.
Our worthy friend, Sarah M. Hiatt, resides here who is an acknowledged minister.
My R. L. found it to be his duty to encourage them to keep up a meeting.
This is the most
northerly point where friends are located in Minnesota.
We returned to
Minneapolis on seventh day, and yesterday had an appointed meeting with friends
& their connections, in a public room, when my dear husband was largely
engaged in pleading with sinners to flee from the wrath to come, & strewing
the inefficacy of good works to secure our eternal salvation. But encouragement
was given to the tender hearted followers of Christ. The members of our society
being requested to remain at the close of the meeting, the necessity of
upholding our testimonies before the world was pressed upon them. Spent the
afternoon at our lodgings in company with some other friends.
Accompanied by our
host we rode about 20 miles this morning to Perkinsville; nearly half the
distance lay thro a wood which extended for about 40 miles in a westerly
direction. The road thro' the wood was bad and we found the mosquitoes very
troublesome. Several families of friends settled here a few years since, but we
only found two remaining. A visitation of grasshoppers injured their crops for
two years which, together with other things, caused some of them to remove.
John Perkins
resides at the head of Independence Lake, which is two miles long and contains
fish of various kinds.
30th, 6 mo.—Yesterday
we had an appointed meeting in a school house for our friends & their
neighbours, when my R L had good service in the ministry, & was also engaged
in prayer. I felt much oppressed with the heat, and unfit to attend such a
meeting but the Lord was strength in weakness & a very present helper in the
needful times.
"I will not
let thee go until thou bless me" is a resolution which seldom fails to draw
down the divine blessing, altho' our faith may only seem as a grain of mustard
seed, yet under the animating influence of holy anointing it may be increased
like the loaves & small fishes which not only satisfied the multitude, but
left many baskets full of fragments.
After partaking of
refreshment we returned to Minneapolis, and as my dear husband felt it to be his
duty to appoint a public meeting with the inhabitants of this place & St.
Anthony this evening, we remain here until fifth day morning. During our sojourn
here we have been much oppressed with the heat.
1st, 7 mo.—On
board the steam boat Milwaukie, sailing down the Mississippi River. Made up my
journal for England yesterday, and in the evening went to the public meeting,
but the room was not near filled with people: my dear Husband had good service
in preaching the unsearchable riches of Christ, and I was made willing to bow
the knee in prayer. Took a final leave of our very kind friends J. Canney &
wife this morning, and came to St. Pauls by stage where we took the boat to La
Crosse in Wisconsin, a distance of 208 miles. Last night there was a heavy storm
of rain & wind accompanied by thunder & lightning, which shattered the
steeple of a church which had been recently built, and other damages were done.
The rain has cooled the air, which is an agreeable change: the hot weather has
affected our health so much that we feared its continuance.
The lodging rooms
are generally very small & low, and the upper rooms being sometimes open to
the roof: the shingles which cover the roof get heated in the day time, and at
night the apartments feel like a dry house.
Amongst the farmers
in the country we get no fresh meat, and seldom any kind but fried bacon, or
dried beef, shaved. The bread is generally only half baked & sometimes we
have no vegetables, which has been rather injurious to me: but we can generally
make a meal of something, and often find good milk.
3rd, 7 mo.—Seventh
day. We made the voyage to La Crosse in 14 hours, from whence we proceeded to
Veroqua, the county seat of Bad Ax, in which vicinity we expected to find some
friends. Our route was thro' a romantic district with ranges of hills varied in
form from that of a sugar loaf to bold rocky topped projections like ruined
castles. Between the ranges lay rich valleys & deep ravines, which are
chiefly settled by Clermans, or Norwegians of the lower class, some of whom have
not made many improvements. The roads are bad and so often varied & turned
by new settlers that our driver who had often passed that way got perplexed, and
night closing upon us, at a time when we could not see a single house we felt in
a tried situation, thinking it unsafe to proceed; but at last we were cheered by
the sight of a light at a distance and were favored to reach our place of
destination in safety about 10 p. m.
5th, 7 mo.—Second
day. On making enquiry for the friends settlement, we could only hear of one
family about 5 miles distant who had any connection with us.
On arriving at the
house of Isaac Williams we found he had a wife and 14 children, 3 of whom lived
under his roof, & 5 others were married and settled around him. It appeared
that I.W. had not a birthright in our society, but his parents joined friends
afterwards. His wife lost her membership by marriage, but both herself &
husband seemed to be friends in principle: the former still wore a plain &
simple dress. They had a number of friends' books, upon which they set great
value.
The family came
here from Ohio about 4 years ago and they have now a farm of 900 acres. Notice
having been given to the neighbours, a meeting was held yesterday morning in a
large unfinished barn belonging to our host, which was attended by about 40
persons. My dear husband spoke at some length, commencing with the text:
"It is appointed unto all men once to die, and after that the
judgment." After taking his seat, one of the company arose and expressed
his unity with what had been said, its accordance with scripture, & his
desire that the company might lay these things to heart.
Having been at
extra expence, & traveled some distance in search of a settlement of friends
that we had been told of, but all to no purpose, my R L felt easy to proceed
& leave them. So W Williams drove us the same afternoon to Bad Ax City,
which consisted of about 8 dwellings on the banks of the River Mississippi,
where we lodged. Arose at 1/2 past 4 o'clock this morning and waited until 6 a.
m. when a steam boat arrived which, being signalled by our host, drew near to
land, and we went on board the "Northern Bell."
Having had some
hard rough traveling in an open farm waggon under a burning sun, this was a day
of rest, and I much enjoyed the morning breeze, and admired the varied rocky
cliffs, the highest of which is said to be 400 feet. But whilst my mind
involuntarily turned and dwelt upon the many hardships and inconveniences which
we sometimes meet with in passing along, I was comforted by remembering the
scripture declaration: " These light afflictions which are but for a
moment, work for us a far more exceeding and eternal weight of glory whilst we
look not at the things that are seen, but at those which are unseen, for the
things that are seen are temporal, but the things which are unseen are eternal.
"
After sailing 60
miles we landed at the busy little town of Pra[i]rie-du-Chien at 11 a. m. and
dined at a comfortable Inn: and at 1/2 past five the same evening took the
railway cars to Milwaukie, a distance of 196 miles, to Lake Michigan quite
across the State of Wisconsin.
8th, 7 mo.—It
was a great discomfort to us to travel thro' the night, and we were much annoyed
by some of the passengers being worse for liquor.
Reached Milwaukie,
a flourishing and well built town containing 50,000 inhabitants, on second day
morning and were gratified to find that a boat sailed daily up the Lake to
Sheboygan, distant 50 miles. Took an early breakfast at an Inn & soon after
7 a. m. we were sailing up the beautiful lake with its light green waters: but I
was too much tried & exhausted to enjoy the trip, & glad to lie down and
rest. Dined on board, & reached Sheboygan about 1 p. m. where we hired a
carriage and drove 20 miles to Glen Beulah, the residence of Joseph Swift who
removed here from Massachusetts about a year since. He has a wife & two
married daughters who with their husbands reside under the same roof. The young
men are engaged in business with their Father-in- law who has a flour mill and
keeps a general store. Their house is a good sized frame building, and it added
much to our comfort to find that they kept up the customs & manners of the
eastern States: their house being a picture of cleanliness, neatness, and order.
J. S. was captain of a vessel for some years & has crossed the Atlantic many
times.
Yesterday morning
we had an appointed meeting with them and their neighbours in a school house
which was well filled & owned by Him who remains to be the crown &
diadem of all rightly exercised assemblies.
After dinner we had
a private interview with the family, and were enabled to enter into sympathy
with them in their isolated situation. Returned to Sheboygan from whence we went
to Milwaukie where we came by train to Lyonsdale, 30 miles, but were
disappointed to find the family that we wished to see had removed and as there
was no train by which we could go forward that evening, & no hotel in the
place, we were at a loss what to do. There are no authorized meetings in the
State of Wisconsin, and we did not know of any persons connected with our
society being near. But in course of conversation we heard of a family who lived
within 1/2 a mile, so we got a guide to conduct us to the house of uncle David
Lyon, as he was called, who gave us a kind reception. The family have lived in
this neighbourhood about 16 years: the wife keeps to her plain dress, & both
parents & children appear to be members of our society, tho' several of the
children have married non members. Arrangements having been made, a meeting was
held in a school house this afternoon to which the neighbours were invited, when
thro' the Lord's help, I trust the gospel was preached, and we had renewed cause
to set up an Ebenezar to his praise. We learn that there are some friends
settled at a place called Honey Creek, 10 miles distant, who occasionally come
here & sit down with the Lyons for the purpose of divine worship, and at
other times David Lyons family go to Honey Creek.
11th, 7 mo.—First
day. At Honey Creek where we arrived yesterday accompanied by David Lyon &
one of his daughters, and lodged at John Cregars who has lived here 12 years. We
find two families who are members of our society, and a number of others who are
more or less connected.
At my dear husbands
request, a chapter was read in the Testament after breakfast this morning, and
he called the attention of our friends to the benefit likely to result from the
performance of this reasonable duty. At 11 a. m. we attended a meeting which had
been appointed in the village school to which the public were invited, when my R
L had good service in setting forth the simple nature of true religion:
"Believe & obey, & your souls shall live." The friends were
invited to meet us at the place where we dined, when the canopy of divine love
spread over us, our hearts were contrited under a feeling of the Lords goodness,
and ability was given to address the people.
13th, 7 mo.—State
of Illinois. Third day. Yesterday morning took rail and came 55 miles to Durant
[Durand] in Illinois; and as the railway is not completed, we had to hire a
carriage to proceed 23 miles further to Freeport, passing thro' a well
cultivated & timbered district, enjoying a cool evening ride. At 4 o'clock
this morning we were seated in a railway ear & traveled 50 miles to Galena,
a fair sized town on the banks of the Mississippi. having been informed that
there were friends in this locality, I staid at an hotel while my husband went
into the town to make enquiries but he could only hear of such as were connected
with the Hicksites, but finding some of these very friendly and their hearts
open to receive us, a meeting is appointed to be held this evening.
Got tea at T
Frazers, and at 7 p. m. met a small company at the house of D. S. Harris when
the great and leading truths of vital christianity were bro't to view, based
upon the one sinless offering of our Lord & Saviour Jesus Christ, for the
sins of the whole world.
15th, 7 mo.—Fifth
day. Lodged at friend Harris' last night, he was from home following his
calling, that of captain of a steam boat. But his wife whose maiden name was
Sarah Coates from Pennsylvania, we found to be a superior woman & of
talented mind, with whom it was a treat to mingle in social converse. Their
house compared to many is like a mansion, and the gardens tastefully laid out,
and all things seeming in good order. We should have liked a longer tarrience in
the company of this interesting woman but sterner duties called us to depart,
and a steam boat being about to sail down the river, we had to take leave and
tear ourselves away; going on board at noon.
After considerable
detention, we reached Muscatine about 4 p. m. yesterday, having sailed 154
miles. The weather has been agreeable the last few days, with slight showers.
Thermometer 67. Having ordered letters to meet us here, we found 3 from home,
containing favorable accounts from our dear family.
A meeting is
appointed to be held here tomorrow. On first day we expect to be at a small
meeting 12 miles distant, & then to bid farewell to Iowa, and after visiting
a few meetings in Illinois to proceed into Michigan. We are in usual health and
can bear testimony to the unfailing goodness of Him whom we desire to serve.
19th, 7 mo.—Muscatine,
Iowa. Where I am penciling notes in a room on the second story of an hotel where
we are waiting for a steamboat to convey us to Burlington, 60 miles distant.
Very heavy rain has been falling for some time, and there is quite a thunder
storm, & I have just heard an explosion close by, like the firing of a
cannon: two young people who were sitting in the same room rose to their feet as
if they had been shot. My dear R L was sitting in the passage of the hotel
beside our luggage and on hearing the noise, turned his head towards the door,
and saw a ball of fire about 9 inches in diameter which immediately burst, &
exploded about a yard from the ground and within a few yards from the door of
the hotel. Fortunately no harm was done. I posted my home journal on seventh day
& in the afternoon we had a meeting with the friends here, held for the
first time in an unfinished meeting house. Best help was near to our comfort
& encouragement, & I trust to the revival of best things in the hearts
of some of the little flock. Took tea at Brinton Darlington's. Yesterday morning
Samuel Adams drove us 13 miles to Atalissa where a few friends reside, but do
not keep up a meeting. We had to cross several bayous before reaching Cedar
River, some of which were so deep that the water came up to the bottom of our
carriage.
Public notice
having been given of a meeting for worship to be held in a large warehouse at
the railway depot, there was a full & respectable attendance, to whom my
dear husband was strengthened to preach the unsearchable riches of Christ; and
Samuel Adams united in the service.
Thomas &
Annabella Winn & Son, and other friends met us here from Spring Dale, 13
miles distant, with whom we had a parting opportunity after dinner, commending
one another unto God, & to the word of his grace, &c. This morning we
had a favored season with S Adams & family, whose comfortable house has been
a home for us during the last few days. S Adams is a man of noble exterior and
has a fine & cultivated mind. A gift in the ministry has been conferred upon
him, but having experienced a reverse of fortune, on a dark & cloudy day he
resigned his membership in our society, nevertheless the cause of truth seems
increasingly dear to him, & he was much drawn out in prayer & praise
this morning, to our comfort: our dear children were interceded for & our
hearts were contrited before the Lord.
21st, 7 mo.—Lodged
at Burlington on second day night & next morning came 95 miles by rail to
Peoria, a wide spread country town on the Illinois. The unusual amount of rain
which has fallen during the last few months has proved injurious to the crops;
and the wheat & oats are much injured. This afternoon we reached the town of
Brimfield, and proceeded to the house of James Abbatt where we met a kind
reception. He has a comfortable house which we approach thro' an avenue of trees
of his own planting, but the country is very flat. The town has much increased
of late, & property has become more valuable: but money is scarce or our
friend would like to sell his farm & live more retired. Since returning from
a recent trip to England he has felt rather discouraged, having found out the
great advantages which Britain's children enjoy in various ways. The inordinate
love of money and land in this country too often break down the noble principles
of honesty and fair dealing, down from the statesman to the peasant. Bribery is
carried on in political matters to a fearful extent, & the executive
government appears to be very corrupt. The feeling of independence runs thro'
all classes, few of the poorer girls will go out to service, and those who do go
out want 11/2 dollars a week for imperfect work, and are apt to leave at
unawares; consequently many families prefer doing their own work. Many of the
women servants are either German, Swiss, or Irish. A farmers wife has to work
hard to keep things clean & tidy but they are too often content to drag on
from day to day without much concern about these things.
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