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ANNALS OF IOWA
A HISTORICAL QUARTERLY
JANUARY, 1921
GALLAND'S IOWA EMIGRANT
TO THE READER
The writer had proposed sending this little matter forth to
the public without any preliminary remarks whatever; but
being prevailed upon by the publishers and other friends to
accompany it with a few preliminary remarks, expressive of
the opportunities which he has had of obtaining correct
information on the subject upon which he treats, he begs
leave to premise that he had been an actual resident in the
regions hereinafter described for the last fourteen years,
and more than forty years a resident north-west of the Ohio
river. Aware that many publications, having in view, as it
would seem, the same object, have already appeared before
the public, it might be supposed superfluous to tax the
reading community with anything further on the subject.
But when it is recollected, that most of those productions
which have appeared in the characters of "sketches,"
"notes," and newspaper paragraphs, are misrepresentations
both of the country and the people who inhabit it, the
country being generally over-rated, and the progress of
improvements greatly extolled, should be deemed a
sufficient apology for this work. It is true that there
are many convenient, comfortable and even capacious
edifices in both town and country; but the "splendid
Cathedrals," the "lofty steeples" and "towering edifices,"
etc., spoken of by travellers and writers have yet to be
erected before they can be seen. It is of vastly inferior
interest to those who wish to emigrate to a new county, to
learn in what manner a few wealthy nabobs have already
contrived to expend their thousands of dollars, in papering
their pride; than to be made acquainted with the natural
advantages of the country. "Can a poor man get a
comfortable living there?" "Can he do better there than to
remain in the old settlements on rented lands?" "Is it
probable that a poor man with a large family, could in a
few years obtain lands for all his children?" Such would
seem to be the most rational questions, to be proposed by
the greatest part of emigrants. These inquiries are
continually being answered in the affirmative, by the
improved circumstances of hundreds who are locating
themselves in Iowa Territory. It should also be borne in
mind, that where the earth is successfully cultivated and
plentiful harvests reward the labors of the field, there
also will the mechanic, the artizan, the merchant and the
learned professor find an ample field for the exercise of
their industry, skill, enterprise and science. The
privations attendant on settling a new country, are, to
many persons, an insurmountable obstacle. To abandon the
place of their nativity, and to forsake forever the society
of those with whom they have been associated from infancy
to manhood; to exchange the shrill tone of the city bell,
for the howling of the wolf or the melancholy hooting of
the owl; the busy hum of men and domesticated animals, for
the distant murmur of the prairie hen, or the silent
beauties of an undulating plain, oranmented with wild
flowers of every tint; to be as it were exiled from society
and deprived of many of those social enjoyments to which
they have become attached by habit, are circumstances
calculated to cool the ardor of enterprize in many bosoms.
But had our fathers shrunk from privations such as these,
or even from dangers and toils of infinitely greater
magnitude, than any which now await the new settler in
Iowa, the Ohio Valley would still have remained a
wilderness. Still, whatever may be the inconveniences
attending a frontier life, there are, at least, some
advantages resulting from it. The important changes which
are continually occurring, both in the moral and physical
condition of things, seem to mark so many different periods
of time at an imaginary distance from each other, so as to
double as it were the retrospect of life. While those who
have always resided in cities or in the older settlements,
pass their dreaming lives away without a striking event to
mark the progress of their years.
When I attempt to call to mind the events which have
transpired within the last thirty years of my life, if
their definite number did not teach me otherwise, I should
be disposed to think, at least a hundred years had passed
away.
The scenery of uncultivated nature, either of hills or
valleys, woodland or prairie, unchanged by human art, is
certainly one of the most sublime, terrestial objects which
the Creator ever presented to the view of man. Equally
deserving of our admiration, is the simple, unostentatious
manners of the children of the forest. Let any one compare
the easy, social, unassuming deportment of the western
pioneer, with the stiff, reserved, haughty and domineering
manners of a southern black leg, or a northern coxcomb,
with all their boasted refinements; - the yelling of our
wolves is not more offensive to Christian ears, then the
shrieks of tortured slaves in the civilized cities of the
south; and our wild roses yield as rich perfumes, as the
pomatumed whiskers of a northern dandy. In what point
then, will the western people suffer by a comparison with
any other section of the Union? If they have better laws
in the older divisions of the country, they do not obey
them better; if they have better schools, they have no
better scholars; and if they make more ado about religion,
they have no more piety or virtue, than the people of the
west. The city refinements of the western country, are the
only matters which would make a savage blush; such, for
example, as the burning of McIntosh in the polished city of
St. Louis; and the murder of Elijah P. Lovejoy, in the
church building of Alton. If these, together with your
mobs at Baltimore, Boston, New York, Philadelphia, &c., are
specimens of your christianity and civilization, then, may
heaven grant, that the native American savages may never be
contaminated by such improvements as you are laboring in
afford them.
Among the most prominent obstacles in settling on the
frontier, from the earliest period of American history to
the present time, has been the fear of a savage foe. We
are told that the North American Indians are "monsters,"
that "the only associations connected with the savages are
of barbarity and perfidy." That "they have always been the
aggressors." "The results of the repeated efforts of
Government to influence these Indians, by measures of
kindness and benevolence, will warrent the conclusion, that
it is futile to attempt any other course towards them than
that of the greatest rigor and severity. The natural
distrust between the white and red man, has at length
amounted to an entire want of confidence on both sides; the
proneness of the Indians to take the lives of the whites,
without regard to sex or condition, whenever it is in their
power to do so, - from a barrier to the renewal of any good
feeling on either side." Volumes might be filled with
extracts of the above description, which are as illiberal
and unjust, as they are cruel and untrue.
"Upon the mouth for the dumb * * * * and plead the cause of
the poor and needy."
Having commenced my earthly career about 49 years ago, in
the Ohio valley, and from that time to the present date
having lived in social and familiar intercourse with the
various tribes of Indians who have inhabited the country
from Pennsylvania to the Missouri river; speaking many of
their languages, and being intimately acquainted with all
the causes which have led to the unhappy difficulties
between these people and the whites, I hope to be excused
for calling in question the correctness of such sweeping
charges, no matter how high the authority from which they
emanate. It is due to the injured, it is due to myself,
and it is due to posterity, that those insidious reports
made by designing individuals who are interested in
perpetuating hostilities between the two races, should be
corrected and the truth published to the world. But it
cannot be presumed that any thing more than a mere glance
at the subject, can be expected in this place.
The Senate of the United States have made void by a vote of
28 to 19, a most solemn treaty with teh Cherokee Indians of
Georgia,-a treaty ratified by Gen. Washington and all his
successors until the administration of Gen. Jackson. By
this most flagrant outrage upon the rights of humanity, a
Nation's character has been sacrificed for Naboth's
vineyard, (see 1st Kings, 21st chapter,) and the Indians
invited to make another treaty. Policy has been
substituted for the unchangable word justice; and in this
as well as other countries, and under its insidious guise
aristocracy has committed some of the darkest deeds and
blackest crimes which have ever disgraced human nature.
But why dwell upon this particular circumstance, as though
it was an isolated case? If from this act of perfidy on
the part of our own government, towards the Cherokees, we
could not race the whole catologue of our recent
difficulties with the Indian tribes, both in the south, the
north and west, we would not have adverted to it. What man
of common sense would listen for a moment to the
declarations of another, who had already violated his
promise, that he might have an opportunity of making
another more in accordance with his interests. Let any
impartial umpire contrast the inhuman butchery of the
Moravian Indians on the Muskingum, the burning of the old
woman at Massasinneway, the indiscriminate murder of women
and children at Bad Axe, the murder of Quasquama's son by
the Missourians, and a thousand other atrocities within the
knowledge of the writer, with every incident of savage
cruelty known to the American people, and we believe the
whites would suffer by the comparison.
While this disregard for national character, in the most
dignified body of legislators on the whole face of the
earth, is so obviously manifested, we should not be
astonished if the brigands of our own and other countries,
encouraged by so dignified an example, should practice
their profession upon these helpless people, though it
should be upon a much smaller scale; such, for instance, as
horse-stealing, robbing them of the result of their toil,
such as meat, skins, &c., and through cowardice, inflict
upon the injured Indian a most brutal castigation, with a
view of terrifying him from a resort for redress or
revenge. The very blankets were stolen from around the
dead bodies of Indians in their graves, at the mouth of
Rock River, in the celebrated Black Hawk war, and after
being washed and smoked, were carried to their homes by
white men. The bones of the celebrated chief, Black Hawk,
have been stolen from his grave! ! Thus it seems, that
these ill fated people are first to be cheated out of all
the products of their country by the traders; then to be
robbed of the country itself by the Government; and,
lastly, as they refuse to be slaves, their bones are
destined to become articles of traffic and speculation.
Would to Heaven, for the honor of our common country, that
this was an exaggerated picture of the facts in the case.
But, alas! one thousandth part of the truth is not told,
nor can it be at this time. We may smile over our
ill-gotten gains, or forfeit with impunity the confidence
of a community whom we no longer fear, but sooner or later
the oppressor will lie as low as the helpless being upon
whom he had trampled. You must first expunge from the
breast of the Indian his memory, or you can never gain his
confidence.
I. GALLAND.
Chillicothe, March 5, 1840.
IOWA
This Territory is bounded as follows, to wit:
Beginning at the mouth of the river Des Moines, where it
empties itself into the Mississippi river; thence east, to
the middle of the main channel of the Mississippi; thence
up the same, following the main channel thereof, to Lake
Winnepeg; thence north, to the Lake of the Woods, thence
west, with the southern boundary of Upper Canada, following
the parallel of the 49th degree of north latitude, to the
White Earth river; thence down said river, with the amin
channel thereof, to its junction with the Missouri river;
thence down the main channel of the Missouri river, to the
north west corner of the State of Missouri; thence east, on
the parallel of latitude which passes through the Rapids of
the river Des Moines, to the middle of the channel of the
Main Fork of the said river Des Moines; thence down the
said river Des Moines, with the main channel thereof, to
the place of beginning.
From north to south, this district is little short of 600
miles, and its average breadth is something more than 250
miles; affording sufficient territory for three States of
ample dimensions. The whole extent of this vast country
abounds with a fertile soil, a pure atmosphere and
excellent water, and, in their several localities, are
found many of the rich mineral deposits of the earth-the
noisy cataract and the gently flowing stream, the smooth
surface of the limpid lake and the turbid torrent of the
Missouri, the expansive prairie and the almost endless
variety of forest trees.
HISTORY
The limits prescribed to these brief remarks, on the
general character of Iowa Territory, will only permit me,
under this head, merely to rescue, from ignorant or envious
neglect, the names of a few of the first actual settlers of
that section of country now denominated Iowa Territory. It
is true that they did not render themselves notorious,
either by their turmoils with each other, or by their
inhuman brutality towards the natives, as many other
settlers upon the frontiers have done. But as long as
benevolence and humanity, industry and enterprize, virtue
and talents, deserve to be remembered, the names of Russell
Farnham, Dr. Samuel C. Muer, Joshua Palen, John Connolly,
Moses Stillwell, Morrice Blondeau, Andrew Santamont, John
Gaines, Thomas Brierly and James White, should not be
forgotten. These have all gone to another world. They
were among the first settlers in the country, and each one
was both the intimate and personal friend of the writer.
Many of them have left indelible traces on the face of the
country and in the memory of their friends. It would seem
that thus far each individual who has presumed to write on
this subject, has entertained an idea, that nothing
deserving of notice had occurred in Iowa until he himself
arrived. The above-named Morrice Blondeau, a half-breed of
the Sauk Indians, opened the first farm, enclosing his
field with a log wall, on the bank of the Mississippi, and
the balance with a worm fence, and caused it to be ploughed
and cultivated in corn, in the usual way. In the spring of
1829, the writer settled with his family on the bank of the
Mississippi, at the upper chain of rocks in the Lower
Rapids, where the village Ahwipetuk now stands, in Lee
county, Iowa. About the same time, Moses Stillwell an Otis
Reynolds erected buildings at the foot of the Lower Rapids,
now called Keokuk. These were the first improvements made
by white persons, as actual settlers, in Iowa Territory;
and they were confined to that part of the present county
of Lee which is known as the Sauk and Fox Half-Breed
Reservation, situate between the rivers Des Moines and
Mississippi. And not until the month of June, in the year
1833 were the citizens of the United States permitted to
enter upon any other part of the territory. Still,
however, several persons attempted to locate at Fort
Madison, Flint Hill (Burlington,) Dubuque, and at other
points on the west bank of the Mississippi, during the Fall
and winter of 1832, but they were removed by a military
force, in obedience to an order from the Secretary of War,
as intruders upon the Indians' land. They were not,
however, to be thus easily diverted from their purpose; for
no sooner had the troops retired, then they were found
resuming their labors.
From that period to this, the rush of immigration to Iowa,
has greatly exceeded anything of the kind heretofore
experienced in any other part of the United States. In the
year 1832, the whole white population did not exceed fifty
persons, and in November, 1839, Gov. Lucas says, in his
Message to the Legislative Assembly of Iowa, that "the
present population may be safely set down at FIFTY
THOUSAND!" this circumstance, alone, is a conclusive
argument that Iowa is a desirable country.
CHARACTER OF THE POPULATION
It cannot have escaped the observation of those acquainted
with the early history of the Western country, that the
first settlements of the Ohio Valley were attended by
circumstances widely different from those of the present
day, in Iowa. In the early settlement of the former, when
most of the luxuries and many of the necessary comforts of
life were only obtained by transportation across the
mountains on packhorses, and at great expense; the
emigrants soon learned, by necessity, to change many of
their former habits and modes of living, and to conform, in
these matters, to the dictates of economy or necessity.
The tardy progress of improvement in a dense forest, the
sparse locations of the inhabitants, and their absolute
exposure to a savage foe, all contributed to produce a
peculiarity of character, according with the surrounding
circumstances. Under these circumstances families were
raised, not only without the advantages of a school
education, but they were not unfrequently deprived even of
the benefits of social intercourse, and hence contracted
habits, and even customs, peculiar to themselves. But
these causes now no longer in existence, the effects have
also ceased. The great facilities now afforded to
emigration, as well as to commercial intercourse in
general, have been productive of as obvious changes, in the
character of the western pioneer, as in any other effects
which it has produced in society. The rapidity with which
the frontier settlements are now made, the great facilities
afforded to emigrants, of carrying with them all the
necessaries and most of the conveniences of life, their
entire security from danger and the density and proximity
of their settlements, at once, conclusively prove that the
character of the people of Iowa has nothing peculiar in it
but what has been derived from other and older sections of
the civilized world. Almost every State in the Union and
many foreign countries are contributing to its population.
The States of Ohio, Pennsylvania and New York, are perhaps
among the first affording the greatest number of emigrants;
while, at the same time, the Northern States, together with
Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee, &c. are also doing their
part in furnishing Iowa with industrious and enterprising
citizens. Hence an individual from almost nay part of the
United States, or in fact from almost any part of the
civilized world, may find himself as it were at home, among
natives of his own State or country, in Iowa. If,
therefore, anything of the "mobocratic, half-horse and
half-aligator" character, so frequently ascribed to the
western settlers, can be attributed to the citizens of
Iowa, we can only admire the sudden transition, by which
Governors, Senators and Representatives, of older States,
together with gentlemen of every class, from the polite
circles of the most polished societies, can become
metamorphosed to a clan of "half-human westerners."
It is truly to be regretted, that the virgin soil of Iowa
has ever been defiled by the tracks of a polite mobite, a
popular murderer or a legalized thief, but it is quite
gratifying that neither the soil nor climate agrees with
such gentry. They have, therefore, found it convenient to
make but a short stay in the country; and, after visiting
us, they have generally taken up their march to the south,
perhaps to Texas.
RIVERS
MISSISSIPPI
The pronunciation of this name in the language of the Sauk
Indians is, Mis-se-Se-po, Mis-se is an adjective,
answering to the English words, grandest, noblest,
chiefest, or most splendid,-and Se-po, simply means river;
hence, the name in its original acceptation signifies, the
grandest, the noblest, the chiefest, or the most splendid
river. The Indians often pronounce this name with the
plural termination, un, as Misse Sepouh, that is, Chiefest
of Rivers. This truly majestic river rises between the
48th and 49th degrees of north latitude, and after winding
its course towards the south, for the distance of about
3,038 miles, empties into the Gulph of Mexico in the 29th
degree of north latitude. It receives in its course, from
each side, many beautiful streams. At, and near its
source, are found many delightful lakes, whosewaters abound
in fish and fowls, and whose shores are lined with groves
of fine timber. Other lakes in this vicinity, of similar
character, are likewise the sources of the Red River of the
North; another noble river which rising in this great
valley, runs north, and discharges its waters into Hudson's
Bay.
From St. Anthony's Falls to the head sources of the
Mississippi, the country is only now beginning to be
correctly examined, by competent engineers in the service
of the United States. The Secretary of War, says: "When
the calculation of the observations made this summer shall
be worked out, the department will possess all the
materials necessary to enable it to construct a physical
and topographical map of this portion of our country,
which, added to that already in our possession, from the
same hand, of the sources of the Mississippi and North Red
River, will present at one view the vast country
comprehended between the 87th and 100th degree of
longitude, and 40th and 49th degree of north latitude."
MISSOURI
This river is called by the Sauks and Fox Indians in their
own language, Pe-ka-ton-oke Sepo; which literally
translated is, "River of Vortexes," or whirlpools. It
constitutes the almost entire western boundary of the Iowa
Territory; and the White Earth river, one of its
tributaries, completes the whole western line, from the
north boundary of the State of Missouri tot he Canadian
line, on the paralled of the 49th degree of north latitude.
The Missouri rises in the Rocky Mountains, and passing
along the west side of the Iowa Territory receives many
fine rivers from each side, and after leaving the Territory
of Iowa, it continues its course through the most fertile
and interesting portion of the State of Missouri, and
empties itself into the Mississippi about 20 miles above
the city of St. Louis. The appearance of this river is
very repulsive; the muddy and filthy appearance of its
water, the torrent-like current, the immense numbers of
snags, sand-bars and falling banks, all contribute to
produce in the mind of the beholder, feelings of an
unpleasant character. Steamboats have navigated its waters
for some distance above the mouth of the Yellow Stone
river, which is still in advance of the White Earth river.
It seems to be the present policy of the government of the
United States, to remove all the Indian tribes within its
jurisdiction, to the south-west side of the Missouri river;
and to settle them there, under the influence of as many of
the arts of civilization, as they may be prevailed upon to
adopt.
JACQUES
Or James river, rises in about 47 degrees of north
latitude, and running south, empties itself into the
Missouri, in latitude 43. This river is said to afford an
extensive and delightful valley, situated between the high
table lands and the Missouri river.
RED PIPE STONE
Or Calument river, sometimes called the Sioux river, has
its source also in the Beautiful Meadows or table lands
which separate it from the St. Peters. His Excellency Gov.
Lucas, of Iowa, recommends as the northern boundary of the
contemplated new State of Iowa, the St. Peters river from
the mouth up to the mouth of the Blue Earth river; thence
up the same, and west to the Cactus, an eastern branch of
the Red Pipe Stone; thence down the same to its confluence
with the Missouri river. It is said, that a great part of
the country is not surpassed by any lands in the United
States as to fertility of soil. Being also well watered,
and interspersed with groves of timber.
ST. PETERS
This is a beautiful river, rising, as has been already
remarked, in some small but delightful lakes, in the
vicinity of the south-eastern slope of the Beautiful
Meadows, and sweeping around in a south-easterly direction,
to its southermost bend about the Swan Lakes, it changes
its course to a north-east direction, and empties itself
into the Mississippi at Fort Snelling. This river, as well
as its tributaries, abounds with water power. And at no
very remote period of time will doubtless be connected with
the river Des Moines by a canal.
DES MOINES
This name was given to this stream by the French traders,
and is interpreted "The Monks' River." The Indian name,
however, is "Ke-o-shaw-qua;" the origin of which they
account for, as follows, to wit: They say, that when their
ancestors first explored this country, they found, residing
on the bank of this river, an old man without family or
human companion, and that his name was Ke-o-shaw-qua; hence
they called it Keoshawqua's river. The French seem also to
have had a view to the same circumstance, when regarding
this lonely inhabitant as a recluse, they named it (La
riviere Des Moines,) or "The river of the Monks." It is
about 400 miles in length, and averages about 300 yards in
width. Its headwaters interlock with branches of the St.
Peters, and in its course it passes diagonally through the
neutral ground, and receiving the Raccoon river and many
other fine tributary streams, it continues its course
through the centre of that district of country, of which
the new State of Iowa must soon be formed. Its waters are
transparent, and its current swift and shallow; it abounds
in fish, and springs of excellent water are in many places
found in great profusion along its shores. The bottom
lands are not very extensive, except in some places, but
they are of a rich alluvial soil, covered generally with a
heavy growth of forest trees, such as black and white
walnut, hackberry, sugar tree, cherry, locust, mulberry,
coffee nut, some buckeye, and all the varieties of oak, &c.
Upon the banks of this river are already situated the
flourishing towns of St. Francisville, in missouri,
Farmington, Van Buren, Rochester, Lexington, Bentonsport
and many others, all now rapidly improving. Its shores are
also lined with beautiful farms as high up as to the Indian
Agency, above which the white people are not yet permitted
to settle. Iron ore and stone coal have been found in
abundance in every part of this country where they have
been searched for. There is no doubt that lead ore will be
discovered in great quantities on the neutral ground, as
soon as that district of country is subjected to a proper
examination.
The Des Moines, from the 40* 44' 06" of north latitude, to
its confluence with the Mississippi, constitutes the
boundary line between the State of Missouri and the
Territory of Iowa; and between this section of the same and
the Mississippi, is situated that tract of land known as
the Sauk and Fox half breed reservation. This is the
southern extremity of Iowa Territory, and occupying the
lower rapids of the Mississippi, where water power to any
extent can be obtained; to which might be enumerated many
other local advantages, which cannot fail to make this one
of the most promising situations on the Mississippi river.
In passing up the river Des Moines, above the Indian
Agency, we are in a district of country which still belongs
to the Sauks and Foxes but which it is presumed the United
States will soon purchase from them. This tract, together
with the neutral ground, is a most desirable section of
Iowa, not only on account of the fertility of the soil, the
timber, the water power and its mineral productions, but
also on account of the centrality of its location, in
reference to the contemplated boundaries of a new State.
SHECAQUA, OR SKUNK RIVER
This river is about 150 yards wide and probably 200 miles
in length: it is already thickly settled with an
industrious and improving population. There are also
several flourishing towns and villages on its banks,
together with some fine mills. The soil is fertile, and
the timber in many places is both abundant and of a good
quality. This river empties into the Mississippi about 8
miles below Burlington, and 12 above Fort Madison.
FLINT CREEK
Is a valuable little stream, on account of the excellent
water powers which it affords. It empties itself into the
Mississippi, a short distance above Burlington.
LOWER IOWA RIVER
This stream is called by the Indians in the Sauk language,
Nah-a-to-seek-a-way, which signifies a yearling Buffalo
bull; it is about 200 yards wide, and perhaps 300 miles
long, a deep channel and strong current; its bottoms, which
are principally prairie from the mouth up for the distance
of 20 miles, are not excelled in beauty, fertility of soil
and romantic scenery by any other parr of the western
country. The principal tributaries to this beautiful
river, are the Red Cedar and the English rivers; the former
from the north-east, and the latter from the south-west
sides. On the banks of it are situated several flourishing
towns, among which is Wapalaw, the seat of justice of
Louisa County, situate about 15 miles from its mouth; and
still higher up, perhaps 100 miles from the mouth, Iowa
City has been located by authority as the permanent
Territorial seat of Government. The several counties
through which this river and its branches pass are rapidly
improving; Cedar County is especially a delightful
district.
WA-PE-SE-PIN-E-KA
Or White Mineral river, is also a fine steam, abounding
with water power and a good soil. This is regarded as the
commencement of the mineral region, in ascending the
Mississippi.
MACOQUETA
This stream is principally celebrated for its cascades and
mill privileges, though it also affords much excellent
farming land and some valuable mineral deposits. The
settlement of this district of the country is also rapidly
progressing.
TURKEY RIVER
Or Pen-e-ah, is a very pleasant little stream, abounding
with good timber and a rich soil; the white population as
yet is rather sparse. From this, following up the
Mississippi, we first meet with Yellow river, a small
stream upon which a part of the Winnebago Indians reside,
having a school and some farms.
Thence passing Paint Creek, we arrive at the
UPPER IOWA RIVER
This is a considerable stream, but not yet inhabited by
white people; it is the point at which the neutral ground
commences on the west bank of the Mississippi; thence to
the Red Cedar; thence to the Des Moines; thence to the Red
Pipe Stone, and thence to the Missouri river; being a belt
of country 40 miles in width. A few miles above the mouth
of this river, and on the opposite bank of the Mississippi
is the mouth of the "Bad-Axe Creek," noted mainly on
account of the inhuman butchery of a large number of Indian
women, children and helpless old men of the Sauk nation, at
the conclusion of the late celebrated "Black Hawk war."
Root river, River of the Mountains, White Wild or Cannon
river, and many other smaller streams empty themselves into
the Mississippi from the western shore. The River of the
Mountains is celebrated for its ancient mounds or tumuli
which are found upon its banks; and the White Wolf or
Cannon river is noted for its water power. This is all,
however, still an uninhabited wilderness, except a
settlement of principally half breeds of the Sioux nation
of Indians, who are located on a valuable reservation of
land, situated on the shore of Lake Pepin; to which may be
added, a few Missionary establishments at different points.
It is now in contemplation to purchase from the natives,
the entire district of country south of the St. Peters, out
of which it is proposed to form the new State of Iowa.
THE BEAUTIFUL MEADOWS
This is that extensive elevation of rich and fertile table
land which separates the valleys of the Jacques or James,
and the Red river of the North. "This is represented to be
a country of surpassing fertility and beauty. The slope
rises to a fine table land, about nineteen hundred feet
above the surface of the sea, and is watered by frequent
steams abounding in fish, that, after swelling two small
lakes, form at their confluence the river St. Peter. The
soil is very rich, and would support a numerous population,
that would enjoy the advantages of inhabiting one of the
most beautiful and healthy regions of the far north-west.
This tract of country is of great extent; it rises in the
vicinity of the Devil's lake, and extends to the
neighborhood of the sources of the Des Moines and Red Pipe
Stone rivers. The whole extent of it is skirted and
interspersed with groves of the finest woods. It is
already recommended to the general Government, to purchase
this region of country, from the natives who now roam over
it, and occasionally fish and hunt upon it. But it is
mostly used at present, as a hunting ground by the Hudson
Bay traders, and the half breeds in their employ, who
procure large supplies of Buffalo flesh in this district,
and, after drying the same, carry it to their residences on
the Assinaboin, Pembina, Red river, Hudson's bay, &c. for
their own subsistence-of which complaints have already been
made to our Government; but it is probable that these
matters will not attract much attention, until that section
of the country shall begin to be settled by American
citizens.
LAKES
DEVIL'S LAKE
This lake is situated between the 28th and 49th degrees of
north latitude as appears from the latest observation. It
is ascertained to be about 40 or 45 miles long, and in some
places about half that width; its shores are well timbered,
and its waters, which abound with excellent fish, are as
salt as those of the ocean. It is interspersed with
numerous islands, which are likewise covered with woods.
"These physical characteristics are common to several
other smaller lakes which are found in this region of
country, where salt is so abundant, that in many places it
effloresces on the surface of the earth."
LAKE TRAVERSE
Is the southern source of the Red river of the North, and
as well as the
BIG STONE LAKE
Which is the source of the St. Peters river, is situated
immediately in the vicinity of those delightful table
lands, called the "Beautiful Meadows." These lakes have
been long known as important trading posts, and have been
occupied alternately by different Indian traders for many
years.
THE SWAN LAKES
These are a cluster of small lakes, on the north side of
the St. Peters river, and about a hundred miles south and
west of Fort Snelling, near the extreme southern bend of
said river. These are said to be beautiful sheets of
water, surrounded by a pleasant country. This is the point
at which the river Des Moines will probably be connected
with the St. Peters, at no very distant day.
INDIANS
SAUKS AND FOXES
These Indians occupy the country embracing the head waters
of Grand, Chariton, Little Platte, &c. of the Missouri, on
the south, and extending north, from the boundary line of
the State of Missouri to the neutral ground, embraces the
Des Moines, Shecauque, or Skunk, Iowa and Red Cedar rivers.
These people are divided into five general divisions-three
on the Des Moines river, a short distance above the present
white settlements, one on the Missouri, and one on the Iowa
rivers. From the late report of Gen. J. M. Street, U. S.
Indian Agent for the Sauks and Foxes, to His Excellency R.
Lucas, Governor of Iowa, he estimates their population,
exclusive of those on the Missouri river, at 4396 souls,
"inhabiting a fertile and well watered country." "Two
sections of land and four mills have been added to their
improvements since last year. The mills on Soap creek are
calculated to do a fine business, and are so near the
settlements that the business will be thronged, as it is
the only mill for 50 miles that has water to run this
summer. Sawing to any amount can be done there, and much
lumber is wanted in the adjoining country. The other mill
at the Indian town, though also nearly completed, is not as
fortunately situated as to water; I apprehend it will only
operate about five or six months in each year. At the Soap
creek mills there will be required at least two hands to
cut and haul logs and to attend the saw-mill, while the
miller (Samuel Smith) will be attending the grist-mill. At
the Indian towns on the Des Moines, I have had three fields
broke up and substantially fenced, and at the desire of the
Indians have had 100 bushels of wheat sowed on the farms."
Gen. Street continues: "At the mills near the Indian
towns, I have appointed Jeremiah Smith, the miller. I
presume the field of 640 acres on the Iowa will ve ready
for delivery over in 15 or 20 days. When that is
completed, the Sauks and Foxes will have four fields broke
and fenced, on the Iowa and Des Moines, and be prepared to
farm to a considerable extent. These Indians have the most
flattering prospects of doing well and living happy," &c.
Gov. Lucas, in his report to the Commissioner of Indian
Affairs, says: "There has not as yet been a school or a
missionary established among these Indians, and I am
satisfied, from personal observation, that there are no
people more susceptible of improvement than they are." The
same causes which Gov. Dodge of Wisconsin alludes to in
these words, viz.: "The benevolent designs of government
to- wards the Indians can never be consummated until the
power and influence of the traders are counteracted," may
account for the absence of schools and missionaries among
the people, as well as for their general degradation. As
long as whiskey-selling atheists, are permitted to exercise
a controlling influence over these people, both the
officers of the Government and philanthropists will be
embarassed, in the discharge of their duties towards them.
[From Major Taliaferro, Agent at St. Peters.]
WAHPAAKOOTAS
This ill-fated tribe, from being once warlike and a terror
to their enemies, have, since 1812, nearly been
exterminated. Many have been cut off by marauding parties
of the Sauks and Foxes, besides those who fell in battle.
This state of things, in connexion with the small-pox, has
left but 325, and they are wending their way to their
destiny with rapid strides. This tribe, in conjunction
with the South Yanetons of the river Des Moines, once held
nearly all the soil comprising the beautiful Territory of
Iowa. It was taken from them by conquest, by the Sauks and
Foxes, and a part of it has now fell into the hands of our
Government. Continually harassed by their old enemies, the
Sauks and Foxes, they can raise no corn, although they
inhabit a beautiful country, from the headwaters of the Des
Moines to the Cannon rivers, the Mixed Lakes and on the
Blue Earth river. Water power abounds in this portion of
the country. These people claim an equal right in the
famed pipe stone quarry, on the Red Pipe Stone river, with
the Susseeton Sioux.
SOUTH SUSSEETONS
These also, from a formidable people, have become reduced
to 276, by migrations and wars with the Sauks and Foxes.
They now reside on the Lizzard river, about the Swan
lakes, and on the St. Peters, about 100 miles from its
mouth. "The country claimed by this fractional band is an
interesting one, beautiful to view, pretty well timbered
and watered." Specimens of good stone coal have been found
in this region.
NORTH SUSSEETONS
These people number 980 persons; they raise but little or
no corn, and follow the chase for subsistence; they roam
from Big Stone and Traverse lakes, where they reside at
times, to the country on the Chippewas border on Red river
of the North. They are at war with the Chippewas, but
often in company with the Yanetonas.
EAST WAHPEETONS
This band numbers 325 souls, and resides at the "Little
Rapids" of the St. Peters, about 35 to 40 miles from Fort
Snelling - they are anxious to sell their country.
WEST WAHPEETONS
These number 425 - are at war with the Chippewas: "raising
nothing, but depended upon the chase alone for subsistence,
until the Rev. T. S. Williamson, M. D., and S. R, Riggs, A.
M., at Renvill's trading post, located among them. Since
then, a visible change for the better has been effected."
They are now cultviating the soil and some of their women
have been taught to spin, knit and weave. The general
features of the country owned by these people, which is
situated around Lake qui-Parle on the St. Peters river, are
a fertile soil and good water - timber not very abundant.
YANETONAS
This is the most numerous tribe of the Sioux in these
regions, and may be estimated at about 2,150 souls. They
depend on the buffalo, both for food and clothing to a very
great extent. They roam through the country on Red river
of the North, and upon the waters of the Missouri; and
sometimes they rest a season with others at the "Devil's
Lake." Their country is extensive, and abounds with fish,
fowl and buffalo.
THE ASSINABOINES
Or Stone Sioux, as they are termed, are but little noticed,
and imperfectly known, but are said to number over 3,000
souls. They range over the country about "Devil's Lake,"
and upon the Assinaboine river. They sometimes remove to
the high lands, and resort to the Missouri for the purposes
of trade.
MEDAWAKANTONS
Maj. Taliaferro says, "This tribe numbers exactly 1,658
souls, 484 warriors, 406 women and 768 children. These
reside in seven detached villages." They formerly resided
east of the Mississippi, but since the treaty of session of
1837, they have removed west, and are now living upon their
country in Iowa Territory, which extends from the "Little
Rapids" of the St. Peters to the neutral grounds, twenty
miles above the Upper Iowa river. Ample provisions have
been made by the government for the improvement of these
people; work cattle, horses, carts, wagons, ploughs,
black-smith shops and other mechanics are furnished them.
In the neighborhood of St. Anthony's Falls, on Lake
Clahoun, Mr. Pond, the farmer, at that point, reports, that
under his charge there was raised this year (1839) 2,300
bushels of corn, 200 bushels of potatoes and other
vegetables. Mr. Holton at the Little Crow village, reports
1,500 bushels of corn, many potatoes, &c. It is
ascertained that over 6,000 bushels of corn have been
harvested this year. "The general features of the country
of this particular tribe are level, with undulating rolling
prairie lands, interspersed with ravines and valleys, as
you approach the Mississippi from inland. It is well
watered; having the Crow, St. Peters, Cannon, Racine,
Disembarrass and numberous other small streams passing
through it." Lead ore is found on the half-breed
Reservation on Lake Pepin. The present prospects of these
people are quite flattering.
CHIPPEWAS
These people have a village at Leech Lake, which
contains a population of 820 souls. A second at Red Lake
containing 290, making the Chippewa population in Iowa
Territory 1,110 persons, besides those who are continually
passing and repassing to and from Wisconsin Territory and
Upper Canada.
WINNEBAGOES
Win-o-shick's band of the Winnebagoes reside on
the Upper Iowa river. The band of Two Shillings, at the
Winnebago school, on Yellow river; the united bands of the
Little Priest and Whirling Thunder, at a new farm recently
opened for them fifteen miles west of the school. The
bands under Big Canoe and his brother Wah-con, are residing
on Black river and in its vicinity, on the Mississippi, in
Wisconsin Territory. Likewise, the bands belonging to
Yellow Thunder, Caramance, Dandy, Little Soldier, Decory
and Big Head, all reside at present in Wisconsin, but are
under treaty stipulations to remove west of the Mississippi
river. Nothing very definite can be said of the number of
these people, as the head of each family wishes to make his
number as large as possible, knowing that he draws money or
goods in proportion to the number of the inmates of his
lodge. Maj. Boyd, estimated the Winnebagoes at 5,000
souls; and we have no authority to say that this is
incorrect, but it is thought to be full large.
BEASTS
The buffalo is found in abundance on Red Pipe Stone,
Jacques or James, St. Peters and Red rivers; they
continually recede before the white population, and are
now only occasionally found on the head waters of the
river Des Moines and Lower Iowa.
Elk are frequently found much nearer the white
settlements, and, occasionally, even in the limits of the
present settlements.
Deer are not very abundant, being hunted out by the
natives; still, however, there are many hundreds of them
killed yearly.
Bears are scarce, but the Indians succeed every winter
in obtaining more or less of these animals, as appears from
the skins which they bring to the traders.
Raccoons are in great abundance in every district of
timbered country, and more especially along the water
courses. They constitute the pork of the Indians.
Squirrels. The common grey squirrels are found
plentifully in the woods, with a few scattering fox
squirrels, but no black ones, however, during fourteen
years residence and rambling in that country, I have not
seen one, neither have I discovered the singular phenomenon
of migration and emigration, profusion and scarcity, of
these little animals, which are so remarkable in the early
settlement of the Ohio valley.
The Panther is rarely seen in the country; their skins
are to be found sometimes among the Indians, but I have not
seen the animal alive in this country. Wild cats are more
frequently seen, but they are not by any means numerous.
The Wolf. There are a few of the large black wolves, and
some grey, but the most numerous of this class of animals
are the Prairie wolf, which is something above the size of
the fox. These animals have not yet proved troublesome to
any extent to the farmers; and probably never can, as the
country is not adapted to their security, against the
search of the hunter-having to burrow in the earth, in
certain elevations of the prairie, they are readily found
and easily destroyed. Many of those animals which have
been so industriously destroyed for their skins, as the
beaver, the otter, the must-rat, the mink, &c., are
becoming scarce; the beaver may be said to be almost
extinct, while but few of the otter remain. It is true
that the musk-rat abounds in great plenty in some places,
and they are said to be found in the greatest abundance
about the sources of the Raccoon river.
Rabbits are found in the settled parts of the country; and
rats are continually arriving, with almost every accession
to our white population, though it is clear that they are
not natives of the country. The oppossum, the pole-cat or
skunk, the hedge-hog or procupine, and the ground-hog, are
severally to be found in this country.
SERPENTS
Those reptiles are not numerous in this country, but
there are a few of the large yellow-pied rattle-snakes, and
still more frequently the little venomous prairie
rattle-snake is heard, whizzing about the traveller's feet
in passing through the prairies. There
are also the bull-snake, the black-snake, the
moccasin-snake, the garter-snake and a variety of water
snakes, which are occasionally met with in the different
sections of this country, none of which are poisonous
except the moccasin.
BIRDS
The groves in all this vast region of country, are enlivened
with the morning matins and evening vespers of a great
variety of singing birds.
The wild turkey, which was so abundant on the Ohio in early
times, is but rarely found in Iowa: I have, however, seen
large flocks of them on the river Des Moines, more
frequently than in any other part of the country.
The prairie hen obtains in the greatest abundance, and more
especially in the vicinity of the white population. Quails
are also numerous, but the pheasant is rarely seen. Swans,
geese, brants, and an almost endless variety of ducks are
in the greatest abundance along the rivers, upon the lakes,
and not unfrequently upon the prairies.
Pelicans. These singular fowls, in the early part of autumn,
often whiten the sand bars of the rivers and lakes-hundreds
of them, on their passage to a southern latitude, alight
together on a sand bar or island, and give it the
appearance of a bank of snow.
The crow and the black bird are sufficiently numerous to be
at times troublesome to the farmers.
Bald Eagles are quite common, while the grey eagle is
scarcely ever seen. Buzzards and ravens are also
frequently seen.
Doves and pigeons, a great variety of woodpeckers, and a
few of the real woodcock genus, of a large size, are found
in the country.
The little humming-bird is likewise often seen, examining the
flowers for his food.
The honey bee is doubtless a native of this region;-they
are found in the greatest abundance, as we advance beyond
the white population.
WILD FRUITS
The earlist fruit, which ripes in the last of May or
first of June, is the strawberry. It grows in barren land,
or adjoining the timber in prairies, and often on the
second bottoms, which are of a sandy soil. This fruit is
of an excellent flavor, and in some seasons can be obtained
in almost any quantity.
Black berries grow plentifully, in those places where
the timber has been either cut down by the hand of man, or
where it has been prostrated by hurricanes; these are also
a very pleasant berry, but not so delicious as the
strawberry.
Raspberries are not as plentiful as the foregoing, but they
are very common in the country.
Gooseberries are in many places in the greatest abundance,
and of the best quality; they are large and smooth and of
an excellent taste.
Plums abound in a great variety of size, color and
flavor, and grow on trees or bushes in a variety of soils,
some of them are of an excellent flavor.
Crab apples are found plentifully about the head of
watercourses in the edges of the prairies, they are very
large and make excellent preserves, having a fragrant smell
and a fine golden color. Several varieties of hickory
nuts, the black walnut, the butter nut, the hazel nut and
the pecan, are plenty in many places.
Grapes. Both summer and winter grapes, and of several
varieties, both in size and flavor are found in the
country. Wild cherries, the black haw, the red haw and the
paw-paw, are also found here.
Cranberries grow in the greatest abundance in the
northern parts of this Territory, and are obtained from the
Indians by the traders in large quantities.
MILITARY DEFENSE
(Extract from the Report of the Quarter Master General.)
"If it be contemplated to establish posts on the route
surveyed between Forts Leavenworth and Snelling, I would
recommend that the ordinary log cabins and block houses of
the frontiers alone be constructed, and with as little
expense as practicable. The natural line of defense of
that frontier is the Missouri river itself; it runs nearly
parallel with the Mississippi through several degrees of
latitude; and will afford the best boundary west for the
States that must in a few years be found north of the State
of Missouri. As to the road, I would recommend that
neither money nor labor be expended upon it. The whole
country is represented as an open prairie, that may be
traversed in all directions without difficulty. Posts on
the Missouri, in advance of Fort Leavenworth, at the mouth
of Table creek, and at or near the mouth of Sioux River,"
[Red Pipe Stone,] "with one on the St. Peters, would have
much greater influence over the Indians between the former
river and the Mississippi, than any post placed on the line
near the white settlements. To secure the communication
with Fort Snelling, barracks for two companies, with good
block houses, are necessary at some intermediate point
between that port and Prairie du Chien; and for the
security of the extending settlements of Wisconsin, a post
is required at Sandy lake, or some other point in advance
of Fort Snelling on the Upper Mississippi; and another at
Fond du Lac, the southwestern extremity of Lake Superior." |
