ANNALS OF IOWA
Volume 1, No. 2 July, 1893
LOST IN A SNOW STORM.
BY EX-GOVERNOR WILLIAM LARRABEE.
The winter of 1856-57 was unusually severe in the
northwest-in fact, none ever equaled it in the memory of the oldest settler.
Snow fell to an enormous depth, and the mercury not infrequently ranged from
20º to 40º below zero for several days in succession. A series of great
storms-now called "blizzards"-from the boreal regions-swept the
prairies, whirling the dust of the powdery snow in a wild dance and piling up
large banks wherever natural or artificial obstacles interrupted their turbulent
course. During that long and severe winter nearly all the deer in northern Iowa
were destroyed, some freezing, others starving to death, still others getting
fast in the deep, crust-covered snow, and being killed by the merciless settlers
while in this helpless condition. Few of the frontier people were prepared for
such a winter, and certainly none had anticipated it. Thousands suffered for
want of sufficient clothing and fuel, and many a man, overtaken by a blinding
storm, or tired out wading through the deep snow, froze to death on the prairie,
perhaps only a stone's throw from home.
Such winters are fortunately a rare occurrence, even in the
Northwest. Moreover, the people of this region have learned to provide for cold
weather, and probably keep now as comfortable and get as much enjoyment out of
the cold season as their countrymen east or south. During the month of December,
1856, with my year's earnings in my pocket, I journeyed through the southeastern
part of Minnesota with a view to select a good quarter section of government
land. I finally made my choice, and then, to enter the land, set out for Winona,
where the land office was located.
On the morning of the 23d of December, I left
Mantorville and walked to Rochester, a distance of about seventeen miles, where
I arrived about 4 o'clock in the afternoon. It had commenced snowing before I
reached that town, but anxious to make a few more miles before dark, and hoping
to find an inn on the road, I took lunch at Rochester and again pursued my
journey.
As night approached a fierce wind arose and enwrapped
me in blinding eddies of snow. The road followed a ridge between the Zumbro and
Root rivers. There was no house, no fence or other landmark in sight. At first a
well-beaten track served as my guide, but this was soon obliterated by the
drifting snow. I found that I had lost the road and was forced to rely upon the
wind to indicate my course. The snow was from one and a half to two feet deep
and was covered with an icy crust. Having already walked more than twenty miles,
I plodded wearily through the sea of snow.
The wind increased in severity as the night wore along,
and every new gust seemed to be ushered in by a more furious howl. The high,
treeless prairie presented no obstacle to the icy wave. As the blasts swept by
me they seemed to penetrate every pore of my body. I was but thinly clad. Like
other new comers, I had not yet learned to properly protect myself against the
severity of the western winter. I wore neither overcoat nor overshoes, a pair of
stockings and cowhide boots forming my sole foot-gear. For a few steps the snow
would bear my weight and then give suddenly way below me; and as I fell headlong
upon the snow or broke through its crust, the fine crystals worked into my boots
and gradually melting there, chilled my feet till their numbness reminded me
that they were beginning to freeze. My body, however, was perspiring fiercely
from the severe physical exercise, and perhaps also in consequence of the fear
occasioned by the thought of freezing to death.
I had probably traveled eight or nine hours and was
from ten to twelve miles out from Rochester before I fully realized the
desperateness of my situation. I had no means of knowing how far I had strayed
from the high road; I had walked mile after mile without discovering the least
trace of a settlement, and the chances of finding a human habitation during the
remainder of the night were small indeed. The whole landscape seemed to be
wrapped in a cloud of white dust, and unless the glimmer of a light happened to
penetrate the snow filled air, I was almost as likely to step upon a mile stone
below the snow as to find a human residence while groping my way through the
blinding storm.
It could not be far from midnight, and as I was well
aware that farmers are wont to retire early, the hope of being rescued by a
guiding light appeared to me extremely slight. Somewhat discouraged, I paused to
consider the advisability of turning around to find my way back to Rochester,
but a moment's reflection convinced me of the utter impracticability of such an
undertaking. I had but little chance to successfully retrace my steps. Besides
this, it would have been an all night's journey, and I was too much exhausted
for such a task. The growing numbness of my feet and the drowsiness which was
gradually stealing upon me, made me realize more and more the extreme danger
into which I had placed myself. Feeling that possibly I had but a very few
hours, at the farthest, during which I could hope to use my lower extremities,
determined to make the best of my time and pushed on.
The rage of the storm seemed to increase from minute to
minute. Toward midnight, with a temperature of from 20° to 40° below zero, the
wind blew at a rate of from thirty to fifty miles an hour. Overpowered by the
conviction that I could not hold out much longer, I occasionally helloed as loud
as my strength would permit, in the hope of making myself heard by some one. But
the maddened winds only seemed to mock my efforts.
With death staring me in the face, I could not help
speculating upon the probable fate of my body. It flashed through my mind that
the wolves would be likely to pick my bones, and that when my skeleton would be
found in the spring and my identity discovered or surmised, the newspapers would
contain an item to the effect that I had been found dead on the prairie between
Rochester and Winona, that presumably I had partaken too freely of strong
liquor, and straying from the road, had frozen to death. As I had never even
tasted of liquor, this thought worried me greatly and seemed to revive my
nagging energies. From that day to this I have been careful not to ascribe any
serious accident to intoxication, unless indications clearly justified such a
charge.
While these and similar thoughts were still engaging my
mind, I came to a partially constructed pioneer cabin. The structure consisted
only of four walls of roughly joined logs. It had neither roof nor door, nor
window, and the logs were not even chinked. Some one had probably commenced
building this cabin on his claim late in the fall but had been compelled by the
approach of winter to abandon it.
The discovery of this symbol of pioneer civilization in
the snowy desert greatly encouraged me and I at once resolved to make it my
headquarters for further explorations. A short survey of this airy resort fully
convinced me that to rest here was to surrender to grim death without a
struggle. Remembering that there is a well marked disposition among pioneers to
settle in clusters, I determined to walk in a wide circle around this embryo
cabin in the hope of finding some human habitation near it.
Taking a radius of about sixty or eighty rods, I
proceeded to carry out my plan. I had passed not much more than half around the
circle, when, after surmounting a long swell in the prairie, I discovered a
small grove in the distance. I at once abandoned my former base and quickened my
steps, fully assured that if there was a house anywhere upon that wide prairie,
it would be found in the shelter of the grove before me. I had not advanced very
far when I espied a faint glimmer of light proceeding, as it seemed to me, from
a snow bank across a small ravine. Flying in the direction of this light as fast
as my benumbed feet would carry me, I presently found myself before a small log
cabin, which was half buried in a snow drift. It had but one little window, of
which the lower portion was hidden by the snow, while its upper panes were so
thickly covered with frost that they scarcely permitted the light to pass
through them.
The joy which I experienced at the sight of this lowly
cabin may be imagined, but cannot be described. I rapped loudly on the door and,
when it was opened, did not even wait for an invitation to enter, but boldly
stepped in. The house was occupied by a Mrs. Foot, with her three sons. After
they had listened to the brief story of my cold adventure, the young men pulled
off my boots and then brought in a pail of water to thaw out my frozen feet.
They gave me a warm supper and a bed on the floor of the small attic. I slept
close to the stovepipe and had a good night's rest. Never shall I forget the
hospitality which I received at the hands of these kind hearted people. From
them I learned that theirs was the only within one mile of the main road for a
distance of twenty miles, and that several persons had frozen to death on that
road the previous winter. The next morning, with the mercury hovering about the
point of congelation, I walked fifteen miles to St. Charles, and on Christmas
morning I proceeded from there to Winona. The wind had given way to a complete
calm, and as I came in sight of that city a most beautiful spectacle, only to be
seen in such a climate, presented itself to my eyes. The smoke from hundreds of
chimneys rose in almost perpendicular columns until it seemed to vanish in the
azure sky. Beyond the city lay the crystallized level of the majestic
Mississippi, bordered by the snow-covered bluffs of the Wisconsin shore.
I went to the land office and, after paying a premium
five per cent for exchange of my wild-cat money for gold, entered my quarter
section of land, and then turned my face toward my Iowa home, which I reached a
day or two before the close of the old year, after having walked more than 600
miles in the midst of the severe weather of that extraordinary winter.
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