Old Stagecoach Days - 1929

FORDYCE, SILVER

Posted By: Joey Stark
Date: 3/12/2006 at 12:30:02

"The Fairfield Daily Ledger"
Wednesday, March 13, 1929
Page 6

OLD STAGECOACH DAYS
by Raymond Parrish
In Parsons College Reportorical Class

The purchase from the government of 320 acres of land by Jarius FORDYCE and three others who accompanied him to Iowa in 1839 was the beginning of what is now one of the most interesting farms in this state, from a historical standpoint. It was in the month of January that Jarius FORDYCE settled upon the farm which is located about three miles southwest of what is now the town of Stockport. Jarius, assisted mostly by his oldest son Seth, battled bravely against snow, ice and bitter cold to erect a small log cabin a short distance to the west of the home which now serves the present owners of the farm. J. C. SILVER, grandson of Seth FORDYCE and present owner, related the early scenes as they were told to him.

While the work of building a home continued the FORDYCE family sheltered themselves in the covered wagon which had served them on the overland trip.

At that time the FORDYCEs held not the remotest idea of running a tavern for the benefit of the traveling public; but the fact that they had settled by one of the leading routes to the west slowly forced them into the practice. Not only was this road traveled by an almost unceasing chain of westward moving pioneers; but it was also the route of a stage coach line operating between Keokuk and Ottumwa. As the FORDYCE home was approximately the midway point between those points, it was only natural that the stages which left those points early in the morning should stop there. It being impossible to refuse hospitality to the stage passengers and emigrants moving eastward, the pioneer farm house was gradually transformed into a widely known tavern for that day.

~~ Enlarge House ~~
The first enlargement resulted when another log structure similar to the first was built near it and connected to it by an enclosed passage possibly ten feet wide. This served the purpose for a time, but it in turn gave way to a house at the spot of the present dwelling. This building served the purposes of the tavern for many years and part of it may still be distinguished in the present home. The house was once rebuilt, the east half being removed and a new part built on. The portion which was removed and set aside was old and drooping before it was finally town down by Mr. SILVER.

During the time of all the growth the FORDYCE place had become an important position in the country. A relay station had been established there with a spacious stable a short distance to the west of the house. An attendant was employed at the stable and at the sound of the horn signaling the approach of a coach he immediately hitched six horses necessary to draw it, and held them in readiness for an immediate change when the stage arrived.

~~ Time Cut ~~
Sufficient time was given the passengers to obtain a little rest and refreshment at the tavern before speeding on. The stable, which was one of the best in that day was constructed of logs, with beams running across the top on which was a roof of sod and prairie grass. In addition to the stable long rows of hitching racks were built in front of the inn for the benefit of that endless stream of travelers riding or driving their own horses. The FORDYCE tavern was a cheerful place for the early traveler, yet one remembers that early travelers did not receive but a fraction of the generous accomodation offered today. If a room could not be had a blanket and a place on the floor was gladly given and the traveler went on his way as well satisfied as one does today. Tallow candles supplied the only light that did not emanate from the fireplace. Mr. SILVER recalls seeing his grandfather sitting so close to the tallow candles in an effort to read that it would seem that his long, white beard would surely catch fire.

Seth FORDYCE not only accomplished great things with the inn but also increased the farm. After the death of his father, Jarius, Seth purchased the shares of the other three who bought in with his father. By buying small tracts from the neighbors, Seth increased the tract to 360 acres.

~~ Indian Girl Buried ~~
Many incidents of real interest relate to the inn and the stage coach which was almost a part of it. At the time Jarius FORDYCE settled in the winter of 1839, a band of some 40 Indians were encamped on the bluff overlooking a small creek running through the FORDYCE land. During the winter one of the Indian girls died and was buried in accordance with all Indian traditions, on top of the cliff. Attempts have since been made to locate the exact spot but no mark of it remains. The group was a fading remnant of the Fox and Sac tribes, [and would in]terfere with the whites even though they were being driven constantly before them. They left the following summer in quest of new lands and they never returned.

~~ Tragic Story ~~
The most tragic story occuring during those days was that of a man and his wife with nine children traveling westward. The parents became very ill and after reaching the tavern begged to be taken in. Seth and his wife's brother cared for the people in spite of the fact that it was discovered they were victims of the dreaded cholera plague. Their efforts could not save their lives so it was necessary to bury them on the farm near the grave of Jarius FORDYCE. Word of the deaths was sent to the man's brother in Pennsylvania. The nine children were cared for with the help of the neighbors until the uncle arrived for them. The children's uncle covered the last lap of his journey from Keokuk on horseback in a single night.

In addition to the constant stream of emigrants moving westward the Mormons made use of the trail when they were driven from Nauvoo. Mr. SILVER's grandmother has told him that for days she could look out from the house and see a continual line of them. Sometimes they were a pitiful sight, because of having packed their belongings and hastened from their homes in the quickest way possible. They drove teams of mules and oxen with some even pushing crude carts resembling wheelbarrows. Their wagons were covered outside with plows, furniture and numerous other articles tied upon them. At night it is said that the hills to the west, where now lays a golf links, would be dotted with hundreds of camp fires built by the passing Mormons.

~~ Chief Blackhawk ~~
Mrs. FORDYCE also told the story of a visit with Chief Blackhawk, who chanced to pass there on his way to Keokuk. Blackhawk, accompanied by other Indians, stopped at the back door of the FORDYCE home in search of a drink. Mrs. FORDYCE gave him water for himself and the band that remained in the road. She also gave Blackhawk food and had the opportunity to talk with him for some time.

~~ Underground Railroad ~~
In politics, Seth FORDYCE was a Republican. He strongly opposed slavery when that practice was in existence. It was a common thing in those days for those opposed to the slave trade to aid in freeing fugitive blacks. When one arrived in the neighborhood he was quickly concealed by any one of the opposers of slavery and kept until it was convenient for him to transport him to Salem in a wagon by night. It is said that when a slave reached Salem he was sure of his escape into the North. There were several Democrats living in the neighborhood who opposed this "underground railroad" practice, and for a time mysterious rappings were heard on the door at night. When the man inside asked "who's there," there followed no reply. The practice continued for several nights until the neighbors were severely warned to give their name if they should knock at the door at night.

Seth FORDYCE was a man of strong religious principles and realizing the need of a church he brought about the organization of the Bethany Christian Church in his home February 19, 1854. Later he donated the land for a church a short distance from the inn. Regular Sunday services were not held in the chruches then as they are now. Traveling ministers were secured whenever possible, generally in numbers. Many times the preaching would last nearly all day, with one minister following another. The FORDYCEs always entertained the ministers while they were in the community. In addition it was the practice to invite the entire congregation to the inn following Sunday services.

~~ Church Center ~~
The church was the center of most of the activities at that time. Old fashioned singing schools were held there at frequent intervals. A singing master was hired in much the same way as a minister. The whole neighborhood then turned out for a full night of joyous singing and other musical entertainment. Winchester was the town about the community centered. The town was located to the west of the FORDYCE place. Nothing remains today of the town which grew to the size of Stockport, which now takes its place. The town's public square, about which the business district was located, was at one time a thing to be proud of. Included among its business houses was a drug store and a hotel. Houses extended for some distance along the roads leading from it, especially to the north and east. The town continued to propser until the coming of the railroad which was destined to pass it by. The road was originally surveyed through that place, directly past the tavern.

~~ Winchester's Chance ~~
The promoter of the road seeking aid from Winchester, asked them to vote a special tax of several thousand dollars for the purpose. The larger land owners were strongly opposed and at the mass meeting which was held they openly defied any one to vote for the project. The result was that the promoter sought better channels and Winchester missed its big opportunity. After the road was built to the north of it, Stockport came into existence and Winchester faded into the past.

On the stage coach trail some distance to the southeast of the tavern was a settlement where soldiers mustered at regular intervals. The place was used for drill and enlisting of recruits. The spot is now marked by a stone memorial which marks the old Mormon trail.

After the advent of the railroad and the end of the stage one of the drivers returned to live near the road upon which he daily drove his coach. The man was instilled with a love for the stage and its passing was only grief to him. He repeatedly stated that when he died he wanted to be buried as near the road as possible. When his death occurred the road had been altered some from the route over which he had driven in that section. Consequently his body was buried in the very center of the old road near Winchester. That place has since grown into a fair sized cemetery.

~~ Ruins Stand Yet ~~
Except for the spirit of the thing in the family and the desire to keep the farm within the family few noticeable signs of its history remain. From the cellar one can see the rough oak timbers which supported the west half of the house as originally built. The logs still have their bark and the wooden pins which held them in place. The floor boards immediately above them were cut from oak logs, with tongues and grooves cut by hand and later planed for their purpose. A big barn still stands which was erected in 1873. The entire framework of the oak logs was cut to measure before construction began. When the time came the neighbors were called in for a "barn raising" day. The whole thing was put up with wooden pins in place of nails.

~~ Total Eclipse ~~
It happened that the day for raising the barn was accompanied by a total eclipse of the sun. The people had no radios or daily papers to tell them of the approaching eclipse, and the story goes that many of the more superstitious ones firmly believed that the world had come to its alloted end. Chickens went to roost in mid-afternoon and later came forth with expressions of as much astonishment as those of the good people gathered there. The barn has been kept in good repair and will probably serve to remind people of the day of its construction for years to come.

In many spots on the land, as well as at other points in that section marks of the old stage coach trail can still be seen. Several places where tracks were worn deep by the coach wheels, are especially noticeable near the little creek west of the house. It was a common thing in those days of open fields and no fences for the driver to pull out of his regular track and form an entirely new one in times of bad weather. For this reason a number of such places are still visible along the route.

~~ Well Still In Use ~~
The well which was dug by James FORDYCE upon his arrival is still used. It is now enclosed in the back porch of the SILVER home.

The timber to the west of the house is a striking contrast to the brush which is said to have existed when Jarius FORDYCE settled there. At that time it was the home of wild game of many kinds, including deer, wild turkeys and prairie chickens. Much of it has been cleared off and now those hills which were dotted with Mormon campfires and roamed upon by Indian tribes have become a golf links closely akin to the modern age. New barns, garages, a silo, seed corn houses, hog barns, etc., have been built on the farm. Electric lights are used in the barns as well as the house. The rural delivery mail carrier now passes the house where once the stage coach passed. But despite the change which has come over the place, the pride of the home remains as much today as ever.

[Also posted to the Van Buren County Documents board]

*Transcribed for genealogy purposes; I have no relation to the person(s).